2002 F-150 4.2 V6 Tick
- Thread starter dogememe
- Start date
I'd start by checking the oil level. When was the oil last changed? Is the filter the correct filter for the application? Does the noise go away, if so how long does it last? Is it an injector/injectors ticking? Is it coming from the valve train? I can go on and on, but those are some of the basics, and where I'd start looking. I'd see if I could get my bore scope down the oil fill hole and look how clean or dirty it is. Once we know the possible cause coming up with a solution would be easier. It could be as simple as doing an oil/filter change, or normal. At this point it is impossible to diagnose w/o more info, or seeing the vehicle or listening to it. Some people upload a video with sound, food for thought.
Valid point, I didn't really post enough detail. I will connect my laptop with Forscan to check misfire counters (it's my experience it take a LOT of misfires to set a P030X code on a Ford), I will do an oil and filter change, and I will upload a video of the sound.
Throw in a dose of Kreen with that OC.
If you are truly sure this is engine noise, you may have to live with it or decide to tear into it for the fix....
Several years ago, I was driving a company-supplied work truck that was about the same age as yours and it had the same engine.
It had a lifelong diet of Motorcraft oil that was regularly changed. It had a tick about the whole time I drove it, but one day I added a bottle of Rislone just for curiosity sake. The tick was gone in about a half hour, but returned a couple of days later. I suspected the only fix was lifter replacement. It really didn't bother me and it didn't bother my boss either, so it was just driven that way and I lived with it. It have over 200K miles on the untouched engine and the moise stayed that way until it was honestly driven to the salvage yard and was kissed goodbye.
Several years ago, I was driving a company-supplied work truck that was about the same age as yours and it had the same engine.
It had a lifelong diet of Motorcraft oil that was regularly changed. It had a tick about the whole time I drove it, but one day I added a bottle of Rislone just for curiosity sake. The tick was gone in about a half hour, but returned a couple of days later. I suspected the only fix was lifter replacement. It really didn't bother me and it didn't bother my boss either, so it was just driven that way and I lived with it. It have over 200K miles on the untouched engine and the moise stayed that way until it was honestly driven to the salvage yard and was kissed goodbye.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
It’s probably the lifters ticking or something. Does it do it constantly? Or just when starting up cold?
Passenger side of engine.
Could be exhaust manifold leak.
This is my vote. My 968 had a tick that was driving me crazy until I realized it got less as the car warmed up. Sounded like a lifter tick but it was an exhaust leak.
Best way to determine if it's exh manifold leak? On a previous vehicle I ran Seafoam into the intake to create white smoke in exhaust and a bunch of smoke came out of the manifold where the EGR tube went in and I patched it with some magic goop from the parts store. Should I try that or is there a better way? Thanks.
I tried to make videos but without two people they aren't great. Helpful at all?
Also I changed the oil and put in 5 quarts of Chevron Supreme 5w-30 and a thing of Rislone with a fresh MicroGard. Noise is the same as before.
I ran a code scan and there is a P0303 stored code.
Also I changed the oil and put in 5 quarts of Chevron Supreme 5w-30 and a thing of Rislone with a fresh MicroGard. Noise is the same as before.
I ran a code scan and there is a P0303 stored code.
I owned one of these exact trucks for 13 years. It sounds like mine always sounded. Not hearing a ticking.
Make sure the engine install brackets (bolted to the headers on each side) are either torqued down so they don't rattle or just take them off. If these become loose, they'll make a ringing sound in the engine bay.
And if you feel inclined to replace the PCV, determine if yours has the coolant-heated PCV before you buy one. Earlier years had the elbow PCV that installed into the passenger valve cover, newer ones relocate the PCV to under the throttle body and it accepts connections from nearby small-diameter coolant hoses. The PCV hoses themselves can deteriorate.
And finally if it throws P0171 codes, then your isolator bolts on the upper intake plenum need to be replaced with the redesigned Dorman one that is oil resistant. The job costs about $120 in materials but takes 4-6 hours to complete.
Make sure the engine install brackets (bolted to the headers on each side) are either torqued down so they don't rattle or just take them off. If these become loose, they'll make a ringing sound in the engine bay.
And if you feel inclined to replace the PCV, determine if yours has the coolant-heated PCV before you buy one. Earlier years had the elbow PCV that installed into the passenger valve cover, newer ones relocate the PCV to under the throttle body and it accepts connections from nearby small-diameter coolant hoses. The PCV hoses themselves can deteriorate.
And finally if it throws P0171 codes, then your isolator bolts on the upper intake plenum need to be replaced with the redesigned Dorman one that is oil resistant. The job costs about $120 in materials but takes 4-6 hours to complete.
I wonder if the ticking noise is not a big deal and something simple is causing my cylinder 3 misfire. Or perhaps there is a mechanical issue affecting cyl 3 hence the noise and the misfire. Hard to tell.
I checked with a better scanner (Forscan) and it seems that I have three codes... P0303 (Cyl 3 Misfire), P0316 (Misfire on engine start), P2006 (IMRC stuck closed).
Could an IMRC issue cause a misfire? A noise? According to this video I just watched it can but there are probably different versions in different engines...?
Last edited:
The P2006 might be legit. The IMRC runner on the intake manifold can fail when these little plastic bushings for them break from heat and vibration.
Lucky for you, getting access to the IMRC runners requires that you replace the plenum isolator bolts so it's all part of the same job.
^^^^^THIS!^^^^^
It sounds like a rocker, or 2, might be on the loose side.
Use a mechanics stethoscope. But, my money is on the rockers.
Last edited:
