2001 Jeep GC 4.0 with Rotella T6 5679 miles

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The continuing saga of my reman 4.0 engine. The engine runs fine, decent mileage, no smoke. Polaris flagged the lead as abnormal (orange) and the oxidation critical (red). (first to last)
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Test#	1	2	3	4	5
Mileage	9622	5184	5606	5334	5679					
Iron 	146	43	26	28	55   
Chrom 	4	1	1	1	1   
Nickel	1	0	0	0	0   
Alum 	4	1	1	1	2   
Copper  23	12	16	20	24
Lead    15	8	4	3	47 
Tin     2	1	1	1	2
Cadmi   0	0	0	0	0	
Silv    0	0	0	0	0 
Vanad   0	0	0	0	0
Silicon 25	12	13	8	12 
Sodiu   18	6	6	9	15 
Potas   6	1	5	0	0 
Titan   0	1	0	0	0 
Moly    61	58	67	62      61
Antim   1	0	0	1	0 
Mang    2	0	0	0	0 
Lith    0	0	0	0	0
Boron   280	163	30	21	23	
Magn  	14	14	892	1041	1049	
Calc  	3611	2651	1008	814	737
Bari   	0	0	0	0	0
Phos	772	723	868	942	921  
Zinc  	923	864	1103	1189	1143
Fuel	<1	<1	2.2	2.0	<1
Soot	<.1	<.1	<.1	<.1	<.1
Water	<.1	<.1	<.1	<.1	<.1
[email protected]	11.1	10.2	12.9	13.3	13.5
TBN   	3.4	4.47	4.22	NES	4.13	
Oxi    	20	25	17	NES	30
Nit     16	12	13	NES	14  


Test#1 PU
Test#2 PU
Test#3 T6
Test#4 T6
Test#5 T6

Obviously the sharp jump in lead is a concern. Copper + lead = bearing failure. Current change is PP (old formulation).
 
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If its a reman, does it have a warranty? If so I might bring it up with the shop that did it/company that supplied the engine, just to see what they say. Those seem like high/inconsistent numbers, I would personally be a little worried.
 

Donald

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The reman engine has almost 60K miles on it. Way past the warranty I was given. Should I consider any action? Even if I knew which bearing was failing what would I do?
 
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Tough question, what to do....T6 should be giving great wear but there's obviously something going on within the engine. You could always try replacing the bearings and see what happens. Shot in the dark? I'd consider calling the reman company, and find out the specifications on the rebuild to insure they used the right sized bearings; if they were too thick, making the clearances too tight, then you might expect heavy wear, at least until they were back to "normal" clearances.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kuato
Tough question, what to do....T6 should be giving great wear but there's obviously something going on within the engine. You could always try replacing the bearings and see what happens. Shot in the dark? I'd consider calling the reman company, and find out the specifications on the rebuild to insure they used the right sized bearings; if they were too thick, making the clearances too tight, then you might expect heavy wear, at least until they were back to "normal" clearances.
If the bearings go back to "normal clearances" wouldn't they at that point be worn, along with the crank, and highly scuffed? I think that would then cause quicker wear, and eventually knocking because loss of oil pressure. The bearing and crank surfaces need to remain smooth.. if clearances were too tight.. I don't think this would be possible.
 

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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Switch to a 10w30 conventional like PYB and see that lead drop.
This is the 3rd oil change with T6 and this is the first oil change where the lead really shot up.
 

Donald

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Originally Posted By: Kuato
Tough question, what to do....T6 should be giving great wear but there's obviously something going on within the engine. You could always try replacing the bearings and see what happens. Shot in the dark? I'd consider calling the reman company, and find out the specifications on the rebuild to insure they used the right sized bearings; if they were too thick, making the clearances too tight, then you might expect heavy wear, at least until they were back to "normal" clearances.
This was a reman not a rebuild. They would have turned the crank and used the proper bearings for a machined crank.
 

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So if the bearings get loose don't they start squirting more oil on the cylinder walls than the oil rings can handle. Maybe thats only the rod bearings and a main bearing has the problem.
 
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Sorry to see you haven't gotten this issue straightened out Donald. Will the engine manufacturer do anything about this? 60,000 miles is such a shame. I second the 15w40 trial run, but either way I don't think any oil will make much of a difference.
 

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So can one assume its just one bearing? How easy would it be to find that bearing? If its a rod or main bearing could just the bearing be replaced or could the crankshaft have an issue which would require machining.
 
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A bearing is likely going, no oil will fix it, but a quality synthetic will buy you more time before it becomes catastrophic. Probably some dirt got in during the reman and it's embedded in a bearing and it's just quietly been munching for 60k. If you're gentle, it should start making noise when it gets bad. How many more miles are you trying to go? If it's just a few more years, I'd let it eat. If you need it to last 5 years or longer, I'd have somebody pull the oil pan and find the culprit...or culprits? Slap some bearings, emery the crank, drive it easy into the sunset.
 

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I remembered that for this entire OCI I added Auto-Rx. The people at Auto-Rx say its possible the Auto-Rx is loosening some hardened oil deposits and that is why the oxidation is high. Its also possible the hardened oil deposits contain wear metals like lead (from break-in) that are coming out with the hardened oil deposits.
 

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Originally Posted By: bigt61
A bearing is likely going, no oil will fix it, but a quality synthetic will buy you more time before it becomes catastrophic. Probably some dirt got in during the reman and it's embedded in a bearing and it's just quietly been munching for 60k. If you're gentle, it should start making noise when it gets bad. How many more miles are you trying to go? If it's just a few more years, I'd let it eat. If you need it to last 5 years or longer, I'd have somebody pull the oil pan and find the culprit...or culprits? Slap some bearings, emery the crank, drive it easy into the sunset.
The engine has 60K and the vehicle has 155K. I would like to get 225K on it before I dump it. After that I am not sure the transmission would be reliable. Wouldn't I have to drop the crankshaft to replace a main? I can only get to the bottom section of the bearing by removing a bearing cap. The Jeep is in very good shape. CarWell every year. No plowing or off roading. No kids to spill inside. Amsoil fluids in everything but engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald
I remembered that for this entire OCI I added Auto-Rx. The people at Auto-Rx say its possible the Auto-Rx is loosening some hardened oil deposits and that is why the oxidation is high. Its also possible the hardened oil deposits contain wear metals like lead (from break-in) that are coming out with the hardened oil deposits.
Possibly true, so maybe a couple of OCIs in a row without any treatment. (and thanks for the explanations above)
 
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