2000 Toyota Celica GTS - Oil questions, help, opinions, and experience sought.

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I own a fairly good condition (130K miles roughly) 2000 Toyota Celica GTS (the Yamaha 2ZZ-GE) and it's time for the yearly oil change. I've been using 5W-40 in it for many years, switching between Mobile1, Valvoline MaxLife blend, and more lately Valvoline 5W-40 Synthetic MST or the other 3 letter one (I'll look at the bulk box tomorrow at work) with Purolator PureOne filter. I have a beginner auto-cross class coming up and it's oil change time before I go, I skipped the oil change last year because I barely drove, it's definitely due now! Due to some logistical constraints I'll be doing this oil change at home (and sucking through the dipstick tube, low car+lazy owner) so I'm supplying my own oil instead of using what's at work.
My question is a 2-parter.
1st, what's a good choice for 5-6K OCI's on a high revving 4 cylinder with metal on metal valve train parts? I drive it joyfully and with as much spirit as is legal, I love this car and love driving it. I've found it's much quieter with 5W-40 when idling fully hot, it helps dull some lock pin rattle from the intake VVT sprocket. It's had some UOA's in the past from Blackstone but I've fallen out of the habit the past few years, everything has historically looked great no matter what oil I had used. I have an Advance Auto within walking distance of my house so something I can grab there would be great.
2nd, HyperLube...I read good things about it here at 1oz per qt and I suspect it would be good for the sintered steel slippers that ride on the high lift lobes at cam change over in the 2ZZ. However I'm worried about windage being that it's a high revver that gets highly revved. I think driving Tail of the Dragon a couple years back the engine didn't see below 2000 RPM almost 40 minutes non stop. My understanding is that HyperLube won't change the viscosity of the oil and so it shouldn't cause problems with crank windage, correct?

From browsing here it seems like there's a little bit of knowledge about the 2ZZ but for a refresher it's an aluminum alloy block with Metal Matrix Composite cylinder liners and a 2 stage valve lift system where at high RPM the cam lobes are switched to a very aggressive lift and duration via a hydraulic locking mechanism switching from roller followers to sintered steel slippers that ride on the cam lobes. The whole valve train is continually fed oil through a steel tube mounted to the valve cover with squirt holes over each set of lobes on each cam, cams are turned via timing chain and the intake camshaft also has VVT. Oil is pretty important for the valve train, the bottom end of the engine isn't anything too out of the ordinary as far as I'm aware beyond issues with oil starvation above 1G lateral (which I am hopefully below but I do have sticky tires and some suspension on it).
 
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Sounds like the oils you've been using have been working well. If it was mine, I'd use something different than the Purolator, a filter with full synthetic media.
 
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I own a fairly good condition (130K miles roughly) 2000 Toyota Celica GTS (the Yamaha 2ZZ-GE) and it's time for the yearly oil change. I've been using 5W-40 in it for many years, switching between Mobile1, Valvoline MaxLife blend, and more lately Valvoline 5W-40 Synthetic MST or the other 3 letter one (I'll look at the bulk box tomorrow at work) with Purolator PureOne filter. I have a beginner auto-cross class coming up and it's oil change time before I go, I skipped the oil change last year because I barely drove, it's definitely due now! Due to some logistical constraints I'll be doing this oil change at home (and sucking through the dipstick tube, low car+lazy owner) so I'm supplying my own oil instead of using what's at work.
My question is a 2-parter.
1st, what's a good choice for 5-6K OCI's on a high revving 4 cylinder with metal on metal valve train parts? I drive it joyfully and with as much spirit as is legal, I love this car and love driving it. I've found it's much quieter with 5W-40 when idling fully hot, it helps dull some lock pin rattle from the intake VVT sprocket. It's had some UOA's in the past from Blackstone but I've fallen out of the habit the past few years, everything has historically looked great no matter what oil I had used. I have an Advance Auto within walking distance of my house so something I can grab there would be great.
2nd, HyperLube...I read good things about it here at 1oz per qt and I suspect it would be good for the sintered steel slippers that ride on the high lift lobes at cam change over in the 2ZZ. However I'm worried about windage being that it's a high revver that gets highly revved. I think driving Tail of the Dragon a couple years back the engine didn't see below 2000 RPM almost 40 minutes non stop. My understanding is that HyperLube won't change the viscosity of the oil and so it shouldn't cause problems with crank windage, correct?

From browsing here it seems like there's a little bit of knowledge about the 2ZZ but for a refresher it's an aluminum alloy block with Metal Matrix Composite cylinder liners and a 2 stage valve lift system where at high RPM the cam lobes are switched to a very aggressive lift and duration via a hydraulic locking mechanism switching from roller followers to sintered steel slippers that ride on the cam lobes. The whole valve train is continually fed oil through a steel tube mounted to the valve cover with squirt holes over each set of lobes on each cam, cams are turned via timing chain and the intake camshaft also has VVT. Oil is pretty important for the valve train, the bottom end of the engine isn't anything too out of the ordinary as far as I'm aware beyond issues with oil starvation above 1G lateral (which I am hopefully below but I do have sticky tires and some suspension on it).
Bitter this is 01 Celica GT from toyotanation and that used to be my username there and here, we used to discuss my auto GTS which was very slow lol, rebuilt the motor before I sold it, when I bought it, it burned oil between oil changes.

back to the point, for your purpose, maybe the boutique racing oils or any euro spec'd oil would work, 5w40/0w40 euro oils. Both Castrol and Mobil 1 have a rebate going on right now.

I agree with ZeeOSix, use a better oil filter, maybe Fram Ultra? it is very well made, and my cartridge fram ultra after 30k miles looks fantastic, and other have cut open the can versions with excellent results.
 

Bitter

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I already have the Purolator PureOne purchased, what's so bad about it? Is it restrictive? I don't mind buying another filter. I guess I'm a bit old school from back when the orange Fram was a 'mark of death' on some engines but if it's got the BITOG stamp of approval I'll give it a go!
Part of the reason I picked Purolator was they actually differentiated between 1ZZ and 2ZZ engines for their filter and the price was reasonable.

Ok ended up putting in an online order for pickup tonight, 5qt jug M1 5W-40 FS Euro, Frame Titanium filter (ultra not in stock).


Any thoughts on HyperLube added to the the Mobile 1 5W-40? Edit: wow ok lots of different HyperLube! This one!
Bitter this is 01 Celica GT from toyotanation and that used to be my username there and here,
Well hello there!

Oops, thought this posted before I left for work but it did not!
 
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Bitter

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I would skip the additive; M1 is a great oil all by itself.
Will do! From what I can see the Fram Titanium is just an Ultra with a markup sold at Advance. If I had planned ahead better I could have saved a few dollars but I thought I already had a good filter.
 
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From what I can see the Fram Titanium is just an Ultra with a markup sold at Advance. If I had planned ahead better I could have saved a few dollars but I thought I already had a good filter.
Some of the Purolators have a history of media tearing, and since it sounds like you rev the engine pretty good and use heavier oil, it makes more sense to use something that can better take the abuse. The Fram Ultra/Titanium is an excellent choice, as they are full synthetic wire backed media, very good flowing (ie, low delta-p across the filter) and high efficiency.
 

Bitter

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The Yamaha Celica GTS engine has a high failure rate if Uncle Scotty is correct.I would use a high saps VW 502 oil
Kilmer? I don't care for that old hack. Most failures were early models with bad drivers, tight 6spd, younger buyers, and grabbing the wrong gear at 8000 RPM caused broken sintered steel oil pumps. Yes, sintered steel wasn't the best choice but there's plenty of 2ZZ with 200K+ miles of daily redlining that are still around, more than a few making more power now than when they left the factory. They're not bullet proof but they do have great longevity given how they're more or less 'abused' daily. Known faults besides the sintered steel oil pump, which only comes into play over about 9,000 RPM, would be early model rocker shaft pinning bolts breaking and that's not terminal but they cam be annoying to repair, higher mile timing cover oil leaks, oil starvation on sustained 1+G lateral turns, and some engines have a slightly restricted oil feed to main bearing #4 I, but is only an issue when you're pushing 600+ WHP with a very high amount of boost, as found by Frank Profera. The oil feed issue is caused by a oil passage plug being more deeply inserted than needed for enough oil flow at 600+WHP, for a basically stock to even lightly built 2ZZ it's never an issue. Frank was just a nutcase pushing 30lbs of boost through a 1.8L Toyota engine on a stock block with just pistons and head work.

Kilmer is on a 30yr long nostalgia trip from huffing too much brake cleaner in his youth, his beloved 6th gen Celica isn't exactly bulletproof either, the 7A-FE is a known oil eater and the 5S-FE has a habit of sending #2 or #3 rods through the front of the block. The rear trunks are known to rust out around the tire well and rear strut towers. They're pretty solid cars but nowhere near the 'godlike' pedestal he's placed them on. Honestly, no car is. All cars have problems, some are more or less severe than others but it helps to take off your rose colored glasses of nostalgia and peek into the real world from time to time, something I don't think he's done in a long time.
 

Bitter

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Mandatory Mobil 1 0w40 plug
I had considered that but I feel that little extra bit of hot viscosity from the 5W quiets the VVT lock pin rattle (or I think it's lock pin rattle), even vs 5W-30. I'm sure someday I'll replace the VVT sprocket and solve the rattle but it's not high on my list. I was in the head once for the 'lift bolts' and I can still feel my butt pucker from the first time I had to go over the lift engagement threshold and find out if my timing was spot on. It'll run a tooth off as it's non interference until 6200 RPM and that is not an engine speed you want to have a PtV event at! All was fine but it was high anxiety!

I have greater confidence in the Toyota workers in Japan that assembled my engine 21 years ago than I do in myself. To be fair, they set the bar pretty high.
 
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Walmart online has 5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w40 for $22.37. A very good oil and very hard to beat that price.

I had considered that but I feel that little extra bit of hot viscosity from the 5W quiets the VVT lock pin rattle (or I think it's lock pin rattle), even vs 5W-30.

You realize "5w" is the winter (cold) viscosity, right?
 

Bitter

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Walmart online has 5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w40 for $22.37. A very good oil and very hard to beat that price.



You realize "5w" is the winter (cold) viscosity, right?
Yes, I need maple syrup so I'll grab a couple jugs for the future!

Yeah, but overall 5W40 is thicker hot than 5W30, and I assume 0W40. My understanding is that 0W oils flow more thinly than 5W oils even when hot since they're not constrained in a bearing or passage. No?
 
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Yeah, but overall 5W40 is thicker hot than 5W30, and I assume 0W40. My understanding is that 0W oils flow more thinly than 5W oils even when hot since they're not constrained in a bearing or passage. No?
Yes 5w40 will be thicker hot than 5w30 because the 40 and 30 are hot ratings. If the 5w40 is thicker at temp than the 0w40, it will only be very slight, but I guess thicker is thicker... whatever works amigo (y)
 

Bitter

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Yes 5w40 will be thicker hot than 5w30 because the 40 and 30 are hot ratings. If the 5w40 is thicker at temp than the 0w40, it will only be very slight, but I guess thicker is thicker... whatever works amigo (y)
Maybe I had some outdated info in highschool ha. Teacher explained it as not just cold flow viscosity but also as how thickly it flowed when hot and not under pressure, that a 5W would stay thicker hot than a 0w. I know draining 5W20 vs 0W20 at work the 5W is less water like than 0W. I'll probably grab a jug of 0W40 and another 5W40 and give the 0W40 a go on the next oil change. Since I can suck it out at home if I don't like it I can change it out.
Got some vacuum pump fittings coming so I don't have to pump by hand anymore, that'll make it easier. Just have to build the adapter for the fluid sucker jug.
 
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Maybe I had some outdated info in highschool ha. Teacher explained it as not just cold flow viscosity but also as how thickly it flowed when hot and not under pressure, that a 5W would stay thicker hot than a 0w.
Only way to really know which oil is thicker when hot (regardless of the "W" rating) is to look at the KV100 (viscosity at 100C) given by the oil maker spec sheet on their website. And then there is the HTHS (High Temp, High Shear) viscosity, which is what really matters when it comes to engine protection, and is what should really be looked for the hot viscosity. But not all oil makers will list the HTHS viscosity on their website.
 

Bitter

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Only way to really know which oil is thicker when hot (regardless of the "W" rating) is to look at the KV100 (viscosity at 100C) given by the oil maker spec sheet on their website. And then there is the HTHS (High Temp, High Shear) viscosity, which is what really matters when it comes to engine protection, and is what should really be looked for the hot viscosity. But not all oil makers will list the HTHS viscosity on their website.
Looks like per Mobil's info it's about .7 points thicker at 100C for 0W-40 vs 5W-40 so not as much as I'd have thought, the 5W-50 is substantially thicker yet at 17.1! I don't think I need 5W-50 and it's probably got lousy local availability.
I grabbed a jug of 5W and 0W-40 and was going to just grab a couple Ultra filters as well but the only empty slot on the shelf was my number for some reason. I'll try back another time or another store, I'll be all set for oil changes for a couple years! If I don't care for the 0W in my Celica I'll suck it out and pour it in my daily/winter Mazda nearing in on 200K, won't hurt it to run a little heavier oil.
 

Bitter

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It's ugly but it sucks pretty good. 3.5 CFM 5pa vacuum pump I used for my condenser replacement with some plumbing fittings to adapt to the terrible fluid extractor I bought. Warm it up, PULL THE STARTER RELAY, then suck the oil out and give the filter a lil reach around under the front of the engine with a disposable bowl to catch the oil, suck that up with the extractor too. Not a drop spilled yet! Pre-filled the filter and got it on, ready to fill it up with the good stuff tonight. Thanks everyone!
 

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Bitter

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At risk of being an Ask-Hole I did order and add 4oz of Hy-per Lube Zinc Replacement to the oil change, ended up using almost the whole 5qt jug which is unusual because since I've changed oil from 2009 to 2019 every oil change has been 4.5qt on the nose with the filter filled. Either this filter holds more oil or I got more oil out with the extractor, either way not complaining more oil is more gooder!
As for the additive I figured that since I'm not driving it often and it sits over winter untouched that the additive would likely do more good than harm. I can say without a doubt that after warming the engine up to full temp and revving it up a couple times to get the VVT clatter going...I did not get any VVT clatter. I've always had this VVT clatter! Since I bought it in 2009-ish with 85K miles. Clackity clack at idle, goes away with a rev and then slowly comes back again. I've ran 5W-40 plenty of times before, the only difference is the filter and the additive. I'll have to check after a drive to see if it's really actually gone but it's never been this quiet before. Something has made the noise a lot better and I'm happy!
 
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