2000 bmw 328ci brake pad change question

Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
3,381
Location
LONESTAR state
Hi I done many brake job before on american and japanese import, but never done on the BMW, I have few question. Any special tool I need ? brake fluid valvoline dot 3-4 work ? do I need replace brake pad sensor ( does it have both side or just 1 ? ) about brake pad/pin lube , I alway use NAPA syl-glide , but my local napa is moving 45 min away, I dont feel like driving that far for that, any other pad/pin lube I can get local ( auto zone, advance auto part.. ) that as good as NAPA syl-glide ? thanks
 
Joined
Dec 24, 2009
Messages
3,181
Location
Ohio
I think you need a 7mm allen for the caliper bolts. The brake pads will have the sensor, I think LF has a sensor and RR has a sensor. Other than that you'll be fine. Just be careful with the spring clips that hold the caliper down. While taking them off they have a tendency to pop off/attempt to hit your eye. lol.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
41,374
Location
Great Lakes
It uses DOT4 fluid, if I remember correctly. Also, the recommended BMW approach is to replace rotors along with the pads. The premise is that the rotors won't last through two sets of pads, and you don't want to have to replace rotors half way through a set of pads.
 

MetalSlug

Thread starter
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
3,381
Location
LONESTAR state
Originally Posted By: beast3300
I think you need a 7mm allen for the caliper bolts. The brake pads will have the sensor, I think LF has a sensor and RR has a sensor. Other than that you'll be fine. Just be careful with the spring clips that hold the caliper down. While taking them off they have a tendency to pop off/attempt to hit your eye. lol.
thanks for head up ^^ , now I need caliper grease and lube, what is good one to use ?
 
Last edited:

JHZR2

Staff member
Joined
Dec 14, 2002
Messages
47,048
Location
New Jersey
Replace the sensors. Most likely they would crack when removed from the pads anyway. They're likely the same price at the dealer as at your local parts store, but the oe one is better quality. For lube products, there is a very specific ATE grease bmw sells. I went with 3m silicone brake lube and crc silaramic for where some solids are desired. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3271609/1
 
Joined
Oct 29, 2007
Messages
1,697
Location
Auburn, GA
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
It uses DOT4 fluid, if I remember correctly. Also, the recommended BMW approach is to replace rotors along with the pads. The premise is that the rotors won't last through two sets of pads, and you don't want to have to replace rotors half way through a set of pads.
This. I use the Valvoline as well. Highest wet boiling point of any off the shelf available brake fluid. The only grease I use on them is silver anti-seize. For a streetcar, I hit the backs of the pads and the slides with it. Track car - none.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
792
Location
Denmark
For brakepins. Good old-fashioned cheap silicone plumbers grease is excellent. We use it at work, and I have always used it on my own cars without problems. To lubricate the pads copergrease is fine
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2007
Messages
8,598
Location
Florida
Front brakes or rear brakes? Sometimes the rear brake calipers used a threaded piston, and it must be turned in the opposite direction with the proper tool. Brake caliper piston return tools can be bought secondhand at a pawn shop for $25 or less. You will know if you have such brakes if there is a lever attached to the caliper, and that lever is connected to the emergency brake. There is almost always a fastener that holds the rotor to the wheel hub flange. Often it gets stuck, and a hand impact tool is essential to remove the fastener. Do you have rotors as well as pads? Almost all European cars have rotors below the minimum thickness when the pads have worn.
 
Top