1W-29 Frankenstein Oil

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Looking to blend Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0W-20 & 5W-30 together in a ratio that will essentially yield a 1W-29 oil (9.2 cst).

Will QSUD OW-20 & QSUD 5W-30 play nice together as they are from the same family (thinking add packs etc will be similar, etc.).
 
Both are API licensed oils so they will be miscible. The winter rating from the mixture is not assured. The final viscosity can be estimated by using the Widman calculator but will you will not create new SAE grade designations no matter how hard you try or no matter what you mix.
 
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They already make 5W that barely fail the 0W Test.

You can't really know how it will perform in W rating. Mixing a 20 and a 30 will accomplish what you want in Grade although technically it will be either a 20 or a 30.

Adding a 0W to a 5W may or may not improve cold performance.

So we can't tell you that 1 quart 5W-30 to 4 qt of 0W-20 will give you what you want.

Why not just buy the highest viscosity 0W-20, the lowest viscosity 5W-30 or the 0W-30 or 5W-20 that comes closest to your ideal?
 
API J300 defines viscosity grades. You don't get to make up your own.

Miscibility is ensured by ASTM D6922.

If you buy motor oil with the API starburst, the viscosity grade is per J300 and miscibility is per D6922.

I would encourage you to use BITOG's enhanced search function as this topic has been covered many times in the past.

Pay extra attention to any post made by @Tom NJ as he is an excellent resource for these sorts of questions.
 
I frankenstein oils all the time. Result was I saved money.

If you have three quarts of Castrol 0W-30 and two quarts of 10W-30 M1 HM I understand this.

However why would you go out of your way to buy two quarts of Chevron Delo 400 XSP Synthetic 5W-30 and 3 quarts of M1 EP 5W-20 instead of just buying a 5 qt Jug of RGT 5W-30?

Without the ability to run a full battery of test you could very well have an oil that performs worse instead of better.
 
I ran that same combination of Ultimate Durability last oil change (at 50-50) and the one currently in one vehicle. ( manual recommends a 5W20 but W30 is okay as well) Did fine, a 0W20 and 5W30 at 50 50 is that not a 2 1/2 W 25 oil??? To get a w29 will be almost all w30 in the mix. Like why bother with the 0W20?
 
Why not just buy the highest viscosity 0W-20, the lowest viscosity 5W-30 or the 0W-30 or 5W-20 that comes closest to your ideal?

Looking to stay only in the Quaker State Synthetic line (cheap, great oil, avail everywhere, trying to pick a brand and stick with). But wanting a stiff 20 weight, my way to appease myself for running 20 weight. I believe 20 weight is likely more CAFE driven than wear driven (although 20 w is a great shear stabil oil and many have racked up hundreds of thousands of miles on).

2015 F150 5.0L (7.8 qts)
via email/forum contact
540Rat advised use 5w30
FordTechMakuloco advised 5w20

QSUD 0w20 is 8.3 cst
QSUD 5W30 is 11.6cst

9.3 = thinnest 30 weight
9.2 = thickest 20 weight
 
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If you have three quarts of Castrol 0W-30 and two quarts of 10W-30 M1 HM I understand this.

However why would you go out of your way to buy two quarts of Chevron Delo 400 XSP Synthetic 5W-30 and 3 quarts of M1 EP 5W-20 instead of just buying a 5 qt Jug of RGT 5W-30?

Without the ability to run a full battery of test you could very well have an oil that performs worse instead of better.
I‘m not deliberately mixing stuff like an alchemist no, but I will happily dump the 1.5qts of “leftovers” into my car at an oil change that I got free from my OCD friend who loses sleep over that sort of thing.
 
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Looking to blend Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0W-20 & 5W-30 together in a ratio that will essentially yield a 1W-29 oil (9.2 cst).

Will QSUD OW-20 & QSUD 5W-30 play nice together as they are from the same family (thinking add packs etc will be similar, etc.).
You will end up with a 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, 5w-20 or 10w-30, but you absolutely won't end up with the nonsense you put in the title, that's not a grade.
 
If I mix to a cst of 9.2 I will call it 29 weight.

Understand technically it would still be a 20 weight were I to bottle it and mass market it (of which I am not). They make 16 weight now, think I can call my blend 29 weight (knocking on the door of becoming a 30 weight).

2qts 11.6cst + 5.8qts 8.3cst = 9.146cst

On the winter number who knows but will be somewhere between 0winter & 5winter
 
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If I mix to a cst of 9.2 I will call it 29 weight.

Understand technically it would still be a 20 weight were I to bottle it and mass market it (of which I am not). They make 16 weight now, think I can call my blend 29 weight (knocking on the door of becoming a 30 weight).

2qts 11.6cst + 5.8qts 8.3cst = 9.146cst

On the winter number who knows but will be somewhere between 0winter & 5winter
You seem to have a pretty good handle on all of this, what was your question again?
 
If I mix to a cst of 9.2 I will call it 29 weight.

Understand technically it would still be a 20 weight were I to bottle it and mass market it (of which I am not). They make 16 weight now, think I can call my blend 29 weight (knocking on the door of becoming a 30 weight).

2qts 11.6cst + 5.8qts 8.3cst = 9.146cst

On the winter number who knows but will be somewhere between 0winter & 5winter

But there is no 29 weight, so if it is 9.2cSt, per J300, it is a 20 weight, probably a heavy 5w-20, but you never know, you might bugger up the Winter rating and end up with a 10w-20.
 
you never know, you might bugger up the Winter rating and end up with a 10w-20.

Would not think it wold be possible for a 0 winter & a 5 winter combined to come out to a 10 winter? I understand what the winter ratings are but am clueless as to how they combine or play with each other.

regards,
 
Would not think it wold be possible for a 0 winter & a 5 winter combined to come out to a 10 winter? I understand what the winter ratings are but am clueless as to how they combine or play with each other.

regards,

Base oils that aren't PAO depend on PPD's to stave off wax crystal formation, which is how they pass the CCS and MRV requirements for their winter designation. Different base oil blends require different levels of PPD's in order for that to work and it's quite possible that a light base oil blend with minimal PPD's mixed with a heavier base oil blend that depends more on them, when diluted in each other, results in poorer CCS/MRV performance.

While unlikely with products from the same manufacturer where the base oils are likely from the same family, it is still technically possible, which is why I mentioned it.
 
Well crap, don't want my winter rating potentially being more than 5winter. "Nonya" can get down to -20f of occasion in the winter.
 
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I've mixed dozens of brands and viscosities and types of oil and run it in various vehicles and never had an issue. So you'll be fine. But you aren't going to be making a 1w-29, that's just not how that works.
 
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