1st post, 1st DIY OC to synthetic, advice?

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It depends if the o rings are in good shape and how cheap they are .
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When it comes to oil filters anything purolator or Bosch or wix/napa gold will serve you well.
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Originally Posted By: RDC
I looked inside the oil fill hole and it's clean as a whistle, so I'm assuming that the engine as a whole doesn't have a major sludge problem. I ordered a new PCV valve today, since recommended replacement is 60k and I'm nearly there. Would it be wise to change the O-rings with the PCV?

I think I'm going to go with 3k OCI with PP a few times, as I'm uneasy about using additives just yet. I am definitely going to check out different filters, as I've read that Honda's latest OEM filter, which I'm currently using, is a low quality Fram in a blue can. Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks again for all the help!



If its relatively clean looking through the fill hole a couple changes at 3-5k on PP or PU or M1 ect. will clean whatever else inside the engine needs it. i think your making a wise choice.

Many here will run oil on long OCI's but i personally change mine out early. 4-5k on a conventional and 6-7 max on a synthetic. i recycle my oil, so im not wasting the lube. Many will say im wasting my money, but my engines are always shiny inside and stay very responsive and that is worth and extra $30 a year to me.

A way i like to clean up and engine i think may be a little dirty is to change the oil with a good synthetic or PYB and take the car on a road trip, if that's and option in the near future. Run it on the interstate all day at 70mph and the oil will do wonders at cleaning up the engine. highway runs and clean oil = clean engines.
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
It depends if the o rings are in good shape and how cheap they are .
lol.gif


When it comes to oil filters anything purolator or Bosch or wix/napa gold will serve you well.
thumbsup2.gif


Regarding o-rings, I'm a noob, and I really have no way of knowing if they're in good shape or not. Heck, I don't even know what purpose they serve!

Per the Honda service manual, they suggest replacing the o-rings if the existing PCV valve is cleaned, yet say to use the old ones if the PCV valve is replaced. I'm having a hard time understanding this.

Donny, after becoming better informed, I agree with you 100% on OCI - cheap insurance!
 
Originally Posted By: RDC
I am definitely going to check out different filters, as I've read that Honda's latest OEM filter, which I'm currently using, is a low quality Fram in a blue can.


There is an enture forum here on BITOG devoted to oil filters. This being BITOG, there are some strong disagreements there, but there are some points of consensus, two in particular: (1) silicone seals (the "rubber" ring where the filter mates to the engine) are better than nitrile seals; nitrile seals usually are black, and silicone seals usually are red; and (2) above a certain quality level, there is not a whole lot of difference, in terms of engine longevity, associated with the oil filter.

There is more debate over the question of where within the filter the bypass valve should be located, with a determined minority saying that it should be at the thread end of the filter, and an apathetic majority saying that it makes no difference whether it is at the threaded end or (the alternative) at the dome end. If that is a matter that concerns you, then the safer course if to find a filter with the bypass at the threaded end.

The "American" filter maker Purolator actually is jointly owned by two German companies, Bosch and Mann-Hummel, and everybody agrees that the top-line filters from Purolator, such as the PureOne and the Bosch D+, are top-notch -- but Donaldson filters enjoy a loyal following, too, and Fram, whose low-end filter suffers the sobriquet OCOD, makes a top-line filter, Fram Ultra, that even Fram-haters grudgingly acknowledge to be a good one.

There is a separate forum for air filters, where Jim Allen holds forth with his (well-documented) theory that air filters are more important to oil cleanliness and wear than oil filters are, and that changing air filters too often is a contributor to dirty engines.
 
Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
There is a separate forum for air filters, where Jim Allen holds forth with his (well-documented) theory that air filters are more important to oil cleanliness and wear than oil filters are, and that changing air filters too often is a contributor to dirty engines.

+1
 
Originally Posted By: GC4lunch


There is a separate forum for air filters, where Jim Allen holds forth with his (well-documented) theory that air filters are more important to oil cleanliness and wear than oil filters are, and that changing air filters too often is a contributor to dirty engines.


Thank you for sharing this, very interesting reading.

I'm now wondering if the bit of sludge I discovered on the last OCI was due to a sheared bolt on the air cleaner assembly, courtesy of dealership service. 8k miles driven with a gap in the air filter clamshell, as only 3 bolts were holding it together. One more reason I'm glad I'm going DIY.
 
A couple more questions for the BITOG gallery:

Would I be better served using 5W30 rather than 5W20 for my next oil change? Summer days here often hit triple digits from June-September, and I'm curious if going to a thicker formulation would be beneficial.

Also, after things clean up with the PP/PU, running some QSUD would be fine, right? I can't help but notice a five quart jug would be almost free after their rebate!
 
Originally Posted By: RDC
A couple more questions for the BITOG gallery:

Would I be better served using 5W30 rather than 5W20 for my next oil change? Summer days here often hit triple digits from June-September, and I'm curious if going to a thicker formulation would be beneficial.

Also, after things clean up with the PP/PU, running some QSUD would be fine, right? I can't help but notice a five quart jug would be almost free after their rebate!


A lot of people think they made 5W-20 for tighter clearances and that is not the case. It was made to improve fuel economy. 5W-30 will be fine in your vehicle I believe.
 
Originally Posted By: RDC
A couple more questions for the BITOG gallery:

Would I be better served using 5W30 rather than 5W20 for my next oil change? Summer days here often hit triple digits from June-September, and I'm curious if going to a thicker formulation would be beneficial.

Also, after things clean up with the PP/PU, running some QSUD would be fine, right? I can't help but notice a five quart jug would be almost free after their rebate!


No I would say stick with what's working well, which is the 5w20. There isn't a real benefit switching to 5w30 despite the hot summers.

QSUD will be just fine for your Accord. A great oil at a great price. Use it with confidence.
 
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