1999 sebring convertible

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Hi I just joined the forum here,I didn't see a welcome topic to introduce my self ...


at idle the engine sounds like it's misfiring and when i set the cruise control sometimes I feel the same thing
below is my complete list of engine repairs and Maintenance,this is only what has been done under the hood
all gaskets including the heads, plugs..wires..cap and rotor, timing belt kit including all the idler and tensioner pulleys and the water pump were all replaced just before this summer, I just replaced the entire AC components about 3 weeks ago. There is not any codes showing on the service engine soon light or when we scan the PCM no codes on that either.I am stumped,please help.
 
Almost bought one of theses cars for the price once. Do you have a/can your find a dealer level scan tool. A miss fire really isn't saying to much and a part replaced could have been defective.


Does it smell of strong gasoline.

First thing I would say is disconnect one o2 sensor at a time and give it like 5 mins see if it runs better.

If your scan tool will show you look for short fuel trim and long fuel trim. See if removing a o2 sensor will fix it after a few mins.
 
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Try disconnecting each plug wire boot from the plug. Do this one at a time to check to see if there's any performance drop. If there is on all cylinders except one, you've found the misfiring cylinder!
 
at autozone for 200.00 called Actron/AutoScanner plus with CodeConnect
Part Number : CP9580A

would this show me what's going on?
 
Welcome in.

Who performed all the maintenance that you listed?

Did this start recently or has it been since one of those particular repairs/maintenance item replacements were made?

Can you describe this misfire sound? Is it making a popping/clacking/or bogging down noise?

Much like many members here, I would like to attempt to help, but just throwing out a list of things that were done isn't typically specific enough for moving forward. It isn't really effective for us (or you) to just throw out random "guesses" until we have some more info. Help us help you! lol.
 
Originally Posted By: wmro
at autozone for 200.00 called Actron/AutoScanner plus with CodeConnect
Part Number : CP9580A

would this show me what's going on?
For what the previous poster mentioned, no. I'm would venture a guess that he was referring to a complete diagnostic tool where you can get live sensor readings. The ones at the parts stores won't do what he's referring to. Just a guess on his reference.
 
my mechanic did all the repairs for me,he has been working on mopars for 30yrs. He also has his own shop.


all the repairs were done before this issue started.After all the repairs were completed in May 2014 and didn't have this issue until 2nd week of July 2014.

the issue sounds like a misfire, at idle every 15 seconds or so it sounds like a a bass drum, just recently when I'm at cruising speed on the freeway it sounds like a bogging down noise and there is no specific times that happens.Also the Tachometer stays the same it does not change when this issue happens..it also happens with AC on or off
 
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Originally Posted By: wmro
my mechanic did all the repairs for me,he has been working on mopars for 30yrs. He also has his own shop.


all the repairs were done before this issue started.After all the repairs were completed in May 2014 and didn't have this issue until 2nd week of July 2014.

the issue sounds like a misfire, at idle every 15 seconds or so it sounds like a a bass drum, just recently when I'm at cruising speed on the freeway it sounds like a bogging down noise and there is no specific times that happens.Also the Tachometer stays the same it does not change when this issue happens..it also happens with AC on or off

What's strange is that if it sounds like it's bogging down, you say the tach doesn't drop. Are you hearing a constant, high pitched whine toward the rear of the car by chance? Also, when you say idle, are you referring to idle in park or in gear?
 
Signs of a bad o2 are typically the following

-poor gas mileage
-bogging down when trying to accelerate
-missfires
-strong smell of gasoline
-stalling

There is many more but theses are common. A dealer level scan tool can be purchased from 500-600 up to like 5k. Typically tho any with live feed will work and give a lot more insight to problems.

If the car has been getting bad gas mileage, bogs down, stalls, etc this is all stuff you can check real time with a dealer level scan tool. If you can find a place with one they may charge about $100 but make sure its a true dealer level and not the cheap auto zone kind.

There are many types of scan tools and typically the lower level ones can give you a list of defected parts but beyond that doesn't do much.

Think about it like this

Your sick and go to the doctors office he asks you a few questions and maybe gives you a prescription. That is the basic

While another doctor will still ask you theses questions but will check you oxygen level, listen to your chest and take a blood sample to test at a lab. That's the dealer levels.

Don't mean to run on not my intention but if you can give us a little more clues.

How has the car been acting different since this problem appeared?
 
I know that bass drum feeling. My old Saturn Ion used to do it. About a month after I bought it I asked my son if he was stomping on the floor or something. It would also jerk the entire car just slightly. Throttle position didn't matter at all, could be idle or mid or full throttle. Put a bottle of Techron in and within 15 miles it was gone. Started again a month or two later, bottle of Techron and it was gone. Took about 5k more miles but it started again. Techron again to the rescue.

Don't know if it will work for you, but if it is a fuel problem a bottle of Techron can't hurt.
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
If its the 2.7 V6
It could be that stupid cam sensor like they all do

But a scan tool and its provided info would be a big help

He mentioned a timing belt and a distributor, and a 2.7 doesn't use those. I think he has the Mitsubishi based 2.5L V6.

On many Japanese engines from that time, the distributor would fail, and cause misfire that way. What really sucks is that rebuilt distributors would last only 1 year, and new OEM distributors usually cost a huge amount of money.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
If its the 2.7 V6
It could be that stupid cam sensor like they all do

But a scan tool and its provided info would be a big help

He mentioned a timing belt and a distributor, and a 2.7 doesn't use those. I think he has the Mitsubishi based 2.5L V6.

On many Japanese engines from that time, the distributor would fail, and cause misfire that way. What really sucks is that rebuilt distributors would last only 1 year, and new OEM distributors usually cost a huge amount of money.


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Ah yes! Totally forgot about those
Yet how.......
As I'm facing distributor problems in my own Villager (Nissan VG33E)
Gotta order me a Richporter NS60, what's commonly known to be the best actually new distributor you can buy. You can't even get them from Nissan/Ford anymore.
 
I had a '98 Cirrus with the 2.5 V6 and it always felt like it was missing even though it wasn't. It just didn't have a smooth idle.
 
Originally Posted By: wmro
at autozone for 200.00 called Actron/AutoScanner plus with CodeConnect
Part Number : CP9580A

would this show me what's going on?


If you want a scanner go to Harbor Freight. I was leary at first, but picked up an OBD II scanner that does CEL,ABS,SRS and transmission fault codes. With coupons and on sale was $100 out the door. HF normally sells cheap junk, but this one is great!
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher

Ah yes! Totally forgot about those
Yet how.......
As I'm facing distributor problems in my own Villager (Nissan VG33E)
Gotta order me a Richporter NS60, what's commonly known to be the best actually new distributor you can buy. You can't even get them from Nissan/Ford anymore.

I'm glad you told me about a good aftermarket ignition distributor for Japanese cars. So many of them are on the road that need one, but will be in the junkyard soon, so an OEM unit isn't worth the money, and replacing the same part every year is frustrating.
 
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