1998 Buick LeSabre Synthetic Oil Recomended?

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Costs more to make the 3800, but they were more durable IMHO than the 3100 type engines. They made good power, had good fuel economy, and rarely broke.

They quit making them cause they were too good IMHO.

I think 2005 was the last year they made them.
 
Hi all, and thank you very much for all the excellent and responsive additions to the thread! As said before, I'm a newb so I did not know what to expect.

The model specific knowledge and info about oil and filters as well as your friendliness is very much appreciated!

This post is pretty long to address questions and all the excellent input. So feel free to skip it unless you want to know the specifics of what I found in doing the UIM and LIM on this engine.

Mainly, thank you very much once again!! Specific details and answers to questions follow:

Regarding some questions: The UIM EGR passage was badly eaten up and just beginning to seep as far as I could tell. I was warned on other forums to do the LIM gaskets and check surfaces for pitting and warpage. The LIM gaskets were leaking oil at the end seals and leaking coolant externally from the pass side front water port.

The tensioner elbow was cracked badly at both ends and was leaking.

The UIM gasket had gone completely flat, but I cannot say if it was leaking or not.

One minor trace suggests the throttle body gasket was leaking just a bit.

The oil pan and valve cover gaskets had gone completely flat and were leaking.

The guy I bought it from was really put out that it was leaking like a sieve, so that's why he was selling it cheap. He'd just put a nice bc/cc paint job on it, the interior is like new and it's never been smoked in in it's life.

I'm not anti-smokers at all; just very danged allergic to smoke and right near anything else come to think of it. I get allergy shots every week.

Back to topic, I replaced the UIM with the one from APN - Auto Parts Network because that one has the EGR bore sleeved with a steel bushing. People are guessing it may last a bit longer than the Dorman kit. But with heat transfer being the slippery character it is, it could be the opposite.

From all of your valued input, I will stay away from the 20 weight oils. I have a good baseline on HIOP (hot idle oil pressure) in drive with the Valvo 10w30, so I'll see how the PP 5w30 compares for HIOP. It runs about 35 right now and goes to 45 at pretty much any other speed.

The oil pressure comes up much more quickly when cold due to replacement of the old design oil pickup screen with the new one. It has a coarser screen mesh and a considerably deeper dish to the assembly's cup or whatever you want to call it.

There was some slurry in the pan, so I think that in combo with the super fine OEM screen was what was going on there.


I just drove the car 190 miles in the last 2 days. It's running super smooth and the instruments say everything is good.


Well, thank you VERY much once again for all the excellent advice. I find a lot of agreement in what is being said and this gives me good direction to go with.

I think I'll start with the PP 5w30. Part of the reason there is the excellent price available from the "Oil Store" - link provided in another thread by one of our BITOG brethren.

I see a lot of confidence in the Purolator Pure One filter, so I think I'll use up my Wix filters for the early oil change suggested above, then go with the Pure One on the first extended OCI.

I will also follow the good advice to do a UOA after the first OCI. Particularly since I've just done work on the engine and cycled it thru 3 OCI's to flush it out.

The threads on UIM/LIM refit gave a lot of great info. The thread by Bill Buttermore was super useful. He's done quite a few of these being a fan of the little engine that could (3800 Gen II's) and he suggested OCI's as follows if coolant contamination is known or suggested following UIM/LIM:

Use inexpensive dino oil, swap oil and filter after procedure. Then after 10 minutes. Then after 100 miles. Then at 1000 miles or whenever it turns black. Then back to regular OCI after that. It could be a bit excessive, but I've read a lot of threads about 3800's that expired not terribly long after the UIM/LIM.

Course, ya' don't know how long some might have run the engines with coolant in the oil...

Well, I've rambled excessively here. Mainly, thank you very much for all the info!!

Larry S.

10*B
 
BTW, for the 3800 owners who were so kind as to provide the excellent input, I read on another thread that the 1998 Chevy Blazer (S-10 size vehicles) 4x4 4.3 v-6 oil filter is the long design to replace the shorty on the 3800 Buick Gen II and would perfectly fit at least the Gen II GM cars.

On the 3rd accelerated OCI mentioned above completed today after the trip to Pueblo, I installed exactly that Blazer style filter and found that it fits perfectly. No exposure to rocks, no closer the the frame notch or oil pan at all. Lotsa' room!

I don't know if the bigger filter is really of advantage, but from a mechanic's point of view it seems to me like the extra filter media provided by the longer filter may be of value.

So when I buy my Purolator Pure One filters as suggested above, I'll buy for the Blazer so I'll have the bigger filters.

LS
 
Originally Posted By: countryboy9799
Why did they quit making these engines? I know of at least 10 that had no trouble making 200,000 plus miles and I have not known of any to make less than that.

Are the replacement engines as good as the 3800?


My dad`s 1990 Olds 88 is somewhere near the 500k mark. Nothing but Pennzoil yb every 3k. Engine still runs as if it were brand new. Imo,GM quit making them because they last forever and no one was buying new cars,so they had to start making sub-par motors that would fall to pieces and then they`d sell more cars. If you`ll notice,you still see tons of GM 3800s still all over the place running flawlessly! GM TOTALLY screwed up when they discontinued them. The best of the bunch imo were the late 80`s era 3800`s. I`ve always considered those engines one of the best,if not the best automobile engine ever made.
 
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Aquarius, thank you for your input. My Dad has owned 2 of the 3800 cars. his 97 is well over 200,000 miles and going strong. He uses Castrol GTX changed every 3,000 or so if memory serves.

I just moved back to Colorado from S. Texas. Donna, TX in the Rio Grande Valley, specifically.
 
Before they stopped making the 3800, they did do a great job to cheapen everything they could, so maybe they were getting plenty of money in repairs. When they went to the plastic gaskets etc, it's a known issue that is a weak link. I have seen one hydro locked from the gasket failing, bores filled with water, changed gasket, removed water, oil change etc, brushed plugs clean, and on the way never hurt a thing. If GMC had not cut corners on pennies with gaskets, and such they would have done much better in my opinion.

I'm not in any way dishing the 3800, just stating what I know as facts that either happened to me, or a family member. The 3800 is, was, and will be a fine motor that people own, if you half way take care of it, prepare for any know issues such as gaskets, harmonic balancer etc you will have a engine that will wear you, and the frame around it out.
 
Valvoline Maxlife semi syn(blend) oil in the 5W30 would be a great choice for your car. I have used it in some older higher mileage cars and it works great. Very good add pack and it is higher in Moly which works great in your engine...

My son has a 99 Old Aurora and I used to use Mobil 1 10W30 and it went through a good amount of oil. His engine is known to do that so I decided a year ago to try the Maxlife blend oil. His oil consumption has dropped way down and his car runs great. I removed one of his valve covers a few OCI's after using Maxlife and it is just about spotless inside. I also did this 4 years ago with Mobil 1 and and his engine looks cleaner with Maxlife.

I love Mobil 1 but not in an application like yours.
 
Valvoline Maxlife semi syn(blend) oil in the 5W30 would be a great choice for your car. I have used it in some older higher mileage cars and it works great. Very good add pack and it is higher in Moly which works great in your engine...

My son has a 99 Old Aurora and I used to use Mobil 1 10W30 and it went through a good amount of oil. His engine is known to do that so I decided a year ago to try the Maxlife blend oil. His oil consumption has dropped way down and his car runs great. I removed one of his valve covers a few OCI's after using Maxlife and it is just about spotless inside. I also did this 4 years ago with Mobil 1 and and his engine looks cleaner with Maxlife.

I love Mobil 1 but not in an application like yours. Maybe try the Mobil 1 HM oil...
 
rcclint, I certainly agree. This response runs on a bit long but may be worth the read.

Whether intentional or not, the problems with these cars create some really cool low buck opportunities for us car folk, though. I was kidding around with my Dad saying it's basically a "kit car". That is, the values are way down because everybody knows about the widespread leaks and coolant guzzling "suicide switch" and few really wants to do the PITA job to get rid of all of that... but if one has the ability and inclination, it can make for a really good all around car that can run a very long time for not much cash.

Were all the leakage problems intentional? I certainly can't say but I too have my conspiracy leanings! Even now it seems like every time I turn around the gaskets or UIM are being updated or changed. Metal framed LIM gaskets are the best/latest for that in my knowledge. But that could already be out of date.

I'll offer this for some level of excuses for the general: An aluminum cast manifold on iron heads has caused problems on and off for manufacturers for decades. Then, some eager beaver thinks the plastic framed gaskets with silicone beads will offer the "bestest" sealing ever... and sometimes it does... until the dissimilar metal castings and dissimilar expansion rates get involved... and then the plastic hardens over time... partially due to the high temps the engines are run at due to CAFE requirements... and then DexCool caps it off by deteriorating metals, gaskets and especially plastics... so many things went wrong it certainly SOUNDS like it could be intentional!

So I can't say if it was intentional or not. It does seem to me that - if not for these problems - the engine would run way too long for best corporate profits in new car sales.

Anyhow, for an early retiree like me with a car background it's a good way to get a really nice car dirt cheap. But certainly not without work! And if one hires out that work, WATCH OUT! Will the mechanic get rid of the plastic LIM gaskets while doing the rest? Is the mechanic up to date on all the updates to the updates in parts and procedures? I found a glut of info regarding the refit on the web. If not for that, I can guarantee you that my work on this job would've lasted only a few years.

And, even the latest greatest (supposedly) UIM from APN still has question marks hanging over it. I think it will last 5 years worth of heat cycles, but it could easily be problematic in it's own right long before then due to possibilities of MORE heat transfer through the steel bushing.


The problematic UIM is supposedly part of the reason the engine performs as well as it does. Going to the plastic UIM allowed them to make a really nice and radical plenum that tapers from a wide, tall port beginning to a high velocity entrance at the valve. This was arguably not cost effective to be done with aluminum in high production. So now there's a 3rd material in the mix... aluminum LIM, iron heads, plastic UIM.

And let's not forget the bolt threat leakage on these engines! Every wet bolt on it had leakage around the threads. Lotsa' thread cleaning and blue loctite on re-assembly! And a prayer at that!

Certainly not an ideal outcome from that experiment.

Well anyhow, rambling response to your input but thank you nonetheless.

In conclusion: Whatever the reasons for the cluster-(bleep), it's left us car people with a low buck "kit car"!!


Larry S.
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Valvoline Maxlife semi syn(blend) oil in the 5W30 would be a great choice for your car. I have used it in some older higher mileage cars and it works great. Very good add pack and it is higher in Moly which works great in your engine...

My son has a 99 Old Aurora and I used to use Mobil 1 10W30 and it went through a good amount of oil. His engine is known to do that so I decided a year ago to try the Maxlife blend oil. His oil consumption has dropped way down and his car runs great. I removed one of his valve covers a few OCI's after using Maxlife and it is just about spotless inside. I also did this 4 years ago with Mobil 1 and and his engine looks cleaner with Maxlife.

I love Mobil 1 but not in an application like yours. Maybe try the Mobil 1 HM oil...



Boss 302fan,

I believe your input on this is extremely valuable. Especially for this particularly engine. The PCV valve looked like an archaeological find. That is, I think it was OEM and was certainly the most fouled PCV valve I've seen in my career.

This means the engine was definitely using oil for that reason if no other. Also, then engine had dozens of leaks.

Furthermore, the rear main seals on these 3800's are supposedly all leaking to some extent even if just replaced.

I may try the regular syn's just to educate myself... see if it tightens up with them. But even if I do that, I'll be holding your specific recommendations in reserve in case it turns out to be a "user".

"Oil addiction" is a terrible thing. It's good to know in advance a way to break the habit if it wants to be an oil junkie!

Thank you for your input!

Larry S.

10*B
 
Originally Posted By: 10bears
rcclint, I certainly agree. This response runs on a bit long but may be worth the read.

Whether intentional or not, the problems with these cars create some really cool low buck opportunities for us car folk, though. I was kidding around with my Dad saying it's basically a "kit car". That is, the values are way down because everybody knows about the widespread leaks and coolant guzzling "suicide switch" and few really wants to do the PITA job to get rid of all of that... but if one has the ability and inclination, it can make for a really good all around car that can run a very long time for not much cash.

Were all the leakage problems intentional? I certainly can't say but I too have my conspiracy leanings! Even now it seems like every time I turn around the gaskets or UIM are being updated or changed. Metal framed LIM gaskets are the best/latest for that in my knowledge. But that could already be out of date.

I'll offer this for some level of excuses for the general: An aluminum cast manifold on iron heads has caused problems on and off for manufacturers for decades. Then, some eager beaver thinks the plastic framed gaskets with silicone beads will offer the "bestest" sealing ever... and sometimes it does... until the dissimilar metal castings and dissimilar expansion rates get involved... and then the plastic hardens over time... partially due to the high temps the engines are run at due to CAFE requirements... and then DexCool caps it off by deteriorating metals, gaskets and especially plastics... so many things went wrong it certainly SOUNDS like it could be intentional!

So I can't say if it was intentional or not. It does seem to me that - if not for these problems - the engine would run way too long for best corporate profits in new car sales.

Anyhow, for an early retiree like me with a car background it's a good way to get a really nice car dirt cheap. But certainly not without work! And if one hires out that work, WATCH OUT! Will the mechanic get rid of the plastic LIM gaskets while doing the rest? Is the mechanic up to date on all the updates to the updates in parts and procedures? I found a glut of info regarding the refit on the web. If not for that, I can guarantee you that my work on this job would've lasted only a few years.

And, even the latest greatest (supposedly) UIM from APN still has question marks hanging over it. I think it will last 5 years worth of heat cycles, but it could easily be problematic in it's own right long before then due to possibilities of MORE heat transfer through the steel bushing.


The problematic UIM is supposedly part of the reason the engine performs as well as it does. Going to the plastic UIM allowed them to make a really nice and radical plenum that tapers from a wide, tall port beginning to a high velocity entrance at the valve. This was arguably not cost effective to be done with aluminum in high production. So now there's a 3rd material in the mix... aluminum LIM, iron heads, plastic UIM.

And let's not forget the bolt threat leakage on these engines! Every wet bolt on it had leakage around the threads. Lotsa' thread cleaning and blue loctite on re-assembly! And a prayer at that!

Certainly not an ideal outcome from that experiment.

Well anyhow, rambling response to your input but thank you nonetheless.

In conclusion: Whatever the reasons for the cluster-(bleep), it's left us car people with a low buck "kit car"!!


Larry S.


My wife had one of these POS--trust me, the engine is only one of its' problems!

John
 
Originally Posted By: Benzadmiral
I have the LeSabre's big brother, the Park Avenue, with the 3.8 N/A Series II engine. In two and a half years I've run 5W-30 in dino (Chevron Supreme, Castrol GTX) and synthetic (NAPA, Pennzoil Platinum), and they all run fine and all lose about a quart in 5000 miles. Of course The Great Dismal Swamp of New Orleans never gets as cold as what you see, so 5W-30 is almost overkill for me.

(You're a lucky man to live in CO, with all the neat places to drive. Been to Great Sand Dunes Monument lately?)


Benzadmiral,


Thank you for your valued input regarding oils.

I live in the mountains west of Walsenburg about 3 mi. N/NW of the VA hospital. So not far off Hwy 160 which is one of the main roads to Great Sand Dunes. I moved back "home" to CO about a year ago from S. Texas - RGV (Rio Grande Valley)after 3 years there.

I haven't been to GSD yet though I had planned to by now. I bought a KLR 650 I plan to mod so maybe I'll ride out there. I'm also very close (10 minutes) to the lakes at Lathrop State park (supposedly Colorado's very first state park), so thought maybe I'd try my hand at fishing though I have to admit to being a rank amateur at that.

I'm glad I bought a big snow thrower! The local range is called "The Wet Mountains" and that means lotsa' snow in the winter!

It's sure been a big adjustment from living in the RGV!

Thank you again for your input.

Kind regards,

Larry S.

10*B
 
Originally Posted By: John_K
Originally Posted By: 10bears
rcclint, I certainly agree. This response runs on a bit long but may be worth the read.

Whether intentional or not, the problems with these cars create some really cool low buck opportunities for us car folk, though. I was kidding around with my Dad saying it's basically a "kit car". That is, the values are way down because everybody knows about the widespread leaks and coolant guzzling "suicide switch" and few really wants to do the PITA job to get rid of all of that... but if one has the ability and inclination, it can make for a really good all around car that can run a very long time for not much cash.

Were all the leakage problems intentional? I certainly can't say but I too have my conspiracy leanings! Even now it seems like every time I turn around the gaskets or UIM are being updated or changed. Metal framed LIM gaskets are the best/latest for that in my knowledge. But that could already be out of date.

I'll offer this for some level of excuses for the general: An aluminum cast manifold on iron heads has caused problems on and off for manufacturers for decades. Then, some eager beaver thinks the plastic framed gaskets with silicone beads will offer the "bestest" sealing ever... and sometimes it does... until the dissimilar metal castings and dissimilar expansion rates get involved... and then the plastic hardens over time... partially due to the high temps the engines are run at due to CAFE requirements... and then DexCool caps it off by deteriorating metals, gaskets and especially plastics... so many things went wrong it certainly SOUNDS like it could be intentional!

So I can't say if it was intentional or not. It does seem to me that - if not for these problems - the engine would run way too long for best corporate profits in new car sales.

Anyhow, for an early retiree like me with a car background it's a good way to get a really nice car dirt cheap. But certainly not without work! And if one hires out that work, WATCH OUT! Will the mechanic get rid of the plastic LIM gaskets while doing the rest? Is the mechanic up to date on all the updates to the updates in parts and procedures? I found a glut of info regarding the refit on the web. If not for that, I can guarantee you that my work on this job would've lasted only a few years.

And, even the latest greatest (supposedly) UIM from APN still has question marks hanging over it. I think it will last 5 years worth of heat cycles, but it could easily be problematic in it's own right long before then due to possibilities of MORE heat transfer through the steel bushing.


The problematic UIM is supposedly part of the reason the engine performs as well as it does. Going to the plastic UIM allowed them to make a really nice and radical plenum that tapers from a wide, tall port beginning to a high velocity entrance at the valve. This was arguably not cost effective to be done with aluminum in high production. So now there's a 3rd material in the mix... aluminum LIM, iron heads, plastic UIM.

And let's not forget the bolt threat leakage on these engines! Every wet bolt on it had leakage around the threads. Lotsa' thread cleaning and blue loctite on re-assembly! And a prayer at that!

Certainly not an ideal outcome from that experiment.

Well anyhow, rambling response to your input but thank you nonetheless.

In conclusion: Whatever the reasons for the cluster-(bleep), it's left us car people with a low buck "kit car"!!


Larry S.


My wife had one of these POS--trust me, the engine is only one of its' problems!

John


John,

Well, that's kinda' harsh. But the cars do have a lot of problems. And, if the inevitable lemon gets superimposed over the common problems, the car would clearly be a total pain.

I'm an early retired former ASE cert MM, so it'll give me a hobby!

Actually, part of the reason I bought it was it's dirt cheap, excellent gas mileage, powerful (for a cheap car) and was in absolutely primo condition other than the leakage.

It's tight now, but a lot of work to get it there!

Finally, family members have owned them. After the obvious TSB's have been addressed, they have been the most reliable cars those family member have ever owned.

But opinions vary and you're certainly entitled to yours. Sounds like you earned it the hard way.

While these may or may not be great "kit cars" as I'd opined above, there is certainly no question in my mind that the well known problems with the zillions of these made hurt the General's reputation - and for good reason.

LS

10*B
 
Most of my family have mechanical backgrounds. 2 of us master mechanics.

FWIW, if people will properly inspect a used car prospect, then look up the TSB's (technical service bulletins) and do the important stuff after buying a used car, used cars can be fairly reliable. Even a Dodge or a Hyundai!
27.gif


Keep smiling,

wink.gif


LS
 
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Originally Posted By: 10bears
Even a Dodge or a Hyundai!
27.gif




/firevest on

LMAO

/firevest off


Beast,

Me too, LMAO fer sure! Next up: Yugo owner's brow beating me about the reliability of my Buick! Ouch! I know I didn't just say that!!
wink.gif
Har, har...

23.gif


Larry S.

10*B
 
Jerry, thank you for the info. I agree.

I had accumulated a bit of an excessive stash of Zerex G-05 for a KLR650 MC, so I used that.

I had drained the coolant a couple of months ago just at the lower radiator hose... then had to refill it because the Ford exploded a 4x4 hub in the mudbog I call my neighborhood... then drained it again.

So I think whatever was in there is fairly well flushed out. What was in there was nice and clean green stuff. Unknown whose.

This refill, it took 3 gallons. Say what? Shouldn't take that much, eh? True enough.

In another forum, someone suggested using a shop vac set up to blow thru the thermostat opening in the LIM prior to unbolting UIM/LIM in order to blow out some coolant and thereby dump less in the engine when the manifolds are removed.

Well, I shoulda' guessed, but what a mess! The shop vac moved enough air that it was blowing out water from the disconnected upper rad hose. "Wet cleanup on aisle 3, please..."

I refilled with the G-05 at 70% a/f and 30% distilled water. That's because where I'm at it can and does frequently get bitter cold. This winter, I think we "only" saw 28 below and only briefly. But if the air stream dips down from Canada, we've seen really scary temps. Been awhile since, but anyhow I mix it kinda' strong.

Again, thanks for the input. 100% agree.

Larry
 
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
A previous post reminds me; I wouldn't use DexCool if I were you. Stick with classic green or G-05.


It's a bit controversial, but because I found so many things leaking when I did the UIM/LIM, I went ahead and put the GM coolant sealing pellets in. Got 'em from a dealer in MI called paceperformance dot com.

Every wet bolt I came across had threads leaking. So I spent a lot of time cleaning threads; then my choice was to seal all the threads with blue loctite.

L
 
I picked up some Pennz Platinum 5w30 singles from Napa on sale and some 5 quart jugs from Wally World. I bought enough that I can put the Buford on it soon as well as the "Big Red Pig" (F150 351 4x4 gas guzzler).

Thanks again for the suggestions! I'll be sure to post some thoughts on how the stuff works...

The Buick sure is running super since the UIM/LIM!

Clean and tight. Excellent gas mileage and power... I've put about 500 miles on it in the past 2 days.

Later,

LS
10*B
 
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