1997 Camaro | Mobil 1 HM | 1,450mi in 7 years

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Original discussion before sending this sample in: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4735674/Testing_the_%22oil_goes_bad#Post4735674



I'm curious to hear thoughts based on this run.
 
Welllll...... considering how hard you claim you run this car, it looks like a lot of wear.

Lead and copper means your bearings are going "bye - bye"
 
Base number is excellent - again proving all the "oil goes bad over time!!!" guys wrong yet again
 
Piston rings and cylinder wall wear makes the iron....

The pistons don't care! Only 2 ppm aluminum
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Welllll...... considering how hard you claim you run this car, it looks like a lot of wear.

Lead and copper means your bearings are going "bye - bye"
9ppm of lead ain't much.
 
Based on the potassium showing up, you may have coolant leaking into the crankcase. Weren't the 5.7 engine from that era prone to LIM gasket failure due to dexcool? Not sure what oil you ran before but a coolant leak may explain the sodium as well, and also the iron, lead and copper readings.
 
Originally Posted By: Carbon12
Based on the potassium showing up, you may have coolant leaking into the crankcase. Weren't the 5.7 engine from that era prone to LIM gasket failure due to dexcool? Not sure what oil you ran before but a coolant leak may explain the sodium as well, and also the iron, lead and copper readings.


Gen 2 small blocks (L99/LT1/LT4) do not have coolant running through the intake manifold. First GM V8 to have a dry intake.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That's a LOT of iron for only 1450 miles.

Thing runs well while oil is below freezing. In addition, this oil has a lot more hours on it than the average 1500mi OCI.
Thank you for sharing this report. Oil looks great, the crud in it...not so much.
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
That's a LOT of iron for only 1450 miles.

Thing runs well while oil is below freezing. In addition, this oil has a lot more hours on it than the average 1500mi OCI.
Thank you for sharing this report. Oil looks great, the crud in it...not so much.


I will be very curious to see what the next test shows. It is permanently out of storage now and will be regularly driven year round in frequent/regular city/highway use. I suspect the wear metals are largely from the numerous times it was started and idled for extended periods of time in winter, but not actually driven anywhere.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
....Lead and copper means your bearings are going "bye - bye"

I beg to differ, for this corrosion wear wouldn't have altered bearings absolute dimensions besides maintaining OEM bearing clearances.
Having said this, plain bearing surface roughness had worsened due to this corrossion wear........
hence calling for a thicker oil (in HM being a wise move,though ) to maintain similar regimes of hydrodynamic lubrication and EHD lubrication.
 
I recently drained factory fill oil from a 2002 monte carlo dale earnheart edition with 290 miles on it. Shoulda kept some haha. It was still gold but a little milky amd smelled putrid.
 
Originally Posted By: Atomic
I will be very curious to see what the next test shows. It is permanently out of storage now and will be regularly driven year round in frequent/regular city/highway use. I suspect the wear metals are largely from the numerous times it was started and idled for extended periods of time in winter, but not actually driven anywhere.


Why was the engine started and idled? If the car was to be in long term storage fogging the engine with oil and sealing the intake and exhaust with desiccants inside would have been preferable.
 
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Why would you let all of those combustion acids sit in that engine for 7 years?

Because TBN was not affected. So, no acids doing anything acidic. A myth that refuses to die.
 
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Why would you let all of those combustion acids sit in that engine for 7 years?

They aren’t unless the TBN of the oil is zero.
 
Guessing the high iron is from cylinder rust, for as long as it sat without being ran & fully warmed up? I'm a firm believer in-if you start it, drive it enough to get it fully warmed up to drive the condensate out of the engine & oil-or don't start it at all!
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: oilpsi2high
Why would you let all of those combustion acids sit in that engine for 7 years?

They aren’t unless the TBN of the oil is zero.

It would be nice if the chemistry were that simple. There are acids and bases in the oil at the same time. The acidity can get excessive long before the TBN reaches 0 or 1 or some higher number.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
It would be nice if the chemistry were that simple. There are acids and bases in the oil at the same time. The acidity can get excessive long before the TBN reaches 0 or 1 or some higher number.

OK, thanks. Maybe a better response would have been when the oil has lost its ability to neutralize acids.

Do you happen to know what the compounds are in oil that neutralize the acid? When I was in college and tested oils for TBN and water we ran a titration that showed the base acted like an amine. Is that what is used?
 
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