Try rotella t-6 5w-40 with a can of moly. Great oil at a great price and moly improved fuel economy in everything I put it in
1995 F-250, 460 EFI - Mobile 1 10W30, 3,000 miles
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As others have said, this UOA doesn't look so good. In fact if this was Royal Purple or Amsoil.....
OK so what you should do is another run with M1 (Mobil, not Mobile, Mobile **** was a whale, not an PCMO). Do another run with M1, but for the last 500 miles, run a quart of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). Then drain the whole mess out and let it drain for awhile. Then go with M1 for 3K and do your 2nd UOA. If it still looks terrible, find the cause and a different oil.
OK so what you should do is another run with M1 (Mobil, not Mobile, Mobile **** was a whale, not an PCMO). Do another run with M1, but for the last 500 miles, run a quart of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). Then drain the whole mess out and let it drain for awhile. Then go with M1 for 3K and do your 2nd UOA. If it still looks terrible, find the cause and a different oil.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Bugger. Because it may have been loaded with crud. The first few I pulled off the Expedition when I started running M1 in it were full of black carbon deposits. That eventually tapered off and stopped.
I'll make sure to cut open the current filter at my next oil change to get an idea of what's being cleaned out. I'm hoping that running a Motorcraft filter is going to help pull the contaminants out of the oil which the Fram probably didn't. Should I be looking at a higher quality oil filter?
Originally Posted By: Pablo
As others have said, this UOA doesn't look so good. In fact if this was Royal Purple or Amsoil.....
I guess I'm too new to the site; I'm not sure what you're implying.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
OK so what you should do is another run with M1 (Mobil, not Mobile, Mobile **** was a whale, not an PCMO). Do another run with M1, but for the last 500 miles, run a quart of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). Then drain the whole mess out and let it drain for awhile. Then go with M1 for 3K and do your 2nd UOA. If it still looks terrible, find the cause and a different oil.
Sorry about the spelling of Mobil. I didn't proofread the title I guess.
Is MMO safe to run that long in the oil? I run SeaFoam in the crank case before every third oil change or so. I first bring the engine up to operating temperature, then pour in 1/3 to 1/2 of a can of SeaFoam, drive for another 15-20 minutes, then pull in back home and change the oil. From what I've read online, it isn't safe to run SeaFoam for too long because of the number of deposits it'll break loose which could be hazardous if not drained soon afterward. How does MMO act differently?
Bugger. Because it may have been loaded with crud. The first few I pulled off the Expedition when I started running M1 in it were full of black carbon deposits. That eventually tapered off and stopped.
I'll make sure to cut open the current filter at my next oil change to get an idea of what's being cleaned out. I'm hoping that running a Motorcraft filter is going to help pull the contaminants out of the oil which the Fram probably didn't. Should I be looking at a higher quality oil filter?
Originally Posted By: Pablo
As others have said, this UOA doesn't look so good. In fact if this was Royal Purple or Amsoil.....
I guess I'm too new to the site; I'm not sure what you're implying.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
OK so what you should do is another run with M1 (Mobil, not Mobile, Mobile **** was a whale, not an PCMO). Do another run with M1, but for the last 500 miles, run a quart of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). Then drain the whole mess out and let it drain for awhile. Then go with M1 for 3K and do your 2nd UOA. If it still looks terrible, find the cause and a different oil.
Sorry about the spelling of Mobil. I didn't proofread the title I guess.
Is MMO safe to run that long in the oil? I run SeaFoam in the crank case before every third oil change or so. I first bring the engine up to operating temperature, then pour in 1/3 to 1/2 of a can of SeaFoam, drive for another 15-20 minutes, then pull in back home and change the oil. From what I've read online, it isn't safe to run SeaFoam for too long because of the number of deposits it'll break loose which could be hazardous if not drained soon afterward. How does MMO act differently?
DIYiT: The motorcraft filter will do you real good, no need to go to a more expensive filter. The Idea of using T-6 is a real good one it will give extra protection if you do any more hauling for your dad. Ck out the HEDO section on the site. For more selections. Good Luck.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Stop using the Seafoam and just use the oil. IMHO, Mobil 1 doesn't need any "help" cleaning your engine.
I'm not a fan of additives in general however.
The Motorcraft filters are an excellent choice.
I'm not a fan of additives in general however.
The Motorcraft filters are an excellent choice.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Some big, older engines just need a thicker oil to cushion stuff more.
Rotella T6 5W-40 would work well here. If you've already put more M1 10W-30 in, if it were me, I'd stick a bottle of STP in it to thicken it up a bit.
STP?? A joke, right?
Some big, older engines just need a thicker oil to cushion stuff more.
Rotella T6 5W-40 would work well here. If you've already put more M1 10W-30 in, if it were me, I'd stick a bottle of STP in it to thicken it up a bit.
STP?? A joke, right?
I think I'll probably stick to the current Mobil 1 oil through the winter; I'm located just south of the Canadian border in northern Minnesota for the time being. I won't have the chance to change my oil and take a sample until I make the return trip home (550 mile drive), and when I take it home, it'll probably stay at home for the rest of the winter (in a semi-heated shop) since it costs too much for the return trip and I'm going to avoid the salt from the winter roads (recently did body work and paint so it's rust free). I think I'll plan on changing in the oil in the spring whether or not the miles warrant it just so I can get a better idea if it's just junk being cleaned out or actual wear. After that, I'll look into changing over to Rotella T6 since it sounds like the heavier weight oil will be OK to run.
I'm not a fan of additives per se, however SeaFoam has proven to work (in my eyes) on two of my previous vehicles that had HORRIBLE service records by their previous owners. I'm not a fan of additives either, but I thought I would ask about it here because of the reports of low anti-wear additives in recent oils. After switching to synthetic oil, I was going to probably cut out my use of SeaFoam before oil changes anyway because of the cleaning effect of the oil itself.
I'm not a fan of additives per se, however SeaFoam has proven to work (in my eyes) on two of my previous vehicles that had HORRIBLE service records by their previous owners. I'm not a fan of additives either, but I thought I would ask about it here because of the reports of low anti-wear additives in recent oils. After switching to synthetic oil, I was going to probably cut out my use of SeaFoam before oil changes anyway because of the cleaning effect of the oil itself.
A 40w is fine in these 460's. I have a 1993 Ford F-350 farm truck with the 460 and its seen John Deere 15w-40 for most of its 190k miles. The John Deere oil is very high in ZDDP and probably higher than the new Rotella's and Delo's.
Cripes. I guess the Seafoam isn't working, dunno - I certainly wouldn't put that in my crankcase. MMO is a bit more gentle, but.....probably not clean up. Just wear. Yeah, bag the additive idea.
I agree with some of the other guys. Go with an XXW-40 and don't look back. A stout synthetic 10W-10 like Amsoil 10W-40 would be good in a 460.
I agree with some of the other guys. Go with an XXW-40 and don't look back. A stout synthetic 10W-10 like Amsoil 10W-40 would be good in a 460.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Another option is M1 0w40..... If you want to step it up a little..... It really shouldn't be necessary though.
DIYiT- Boy, if you weren't running around in circles, hair afire, before reading this thread, maybe you were after! ( : < )
I agree that you should run a 3K OCI this time with the oil you have, resample, and go to an HDEO 5W40. Sample that in 3K too and you'll soon see what's what. This ain't a great UOA, but it doesn't necessarily signify immanent death either.
The HDEOs are very good at cleaning without using and other additives. Plus, they are very good at holding stuff in suspension until it can be filtered. Overall, I think your engine would be fine with a 10W30, in spite of the miles, but since you live in the north, and the 5W and 0W30 HDEO oils are so expensive, the 5W40 oil will help your cold starts. There are ways to objectively determine if your engine needs a heavier oil, but you have enough complications as it is now and the 5W40 covers a broad range of temps.
I agree that you should run a 3K OCI this time with the oil you have, resample, and go to an HDEO 5W40. Sample that in 3K too and you'll soon see what's what. This ain't a great UOA, but it doesn't necessarily signify immanent death either.
The HDEOs are very good at cleaning without using and other additives. Plus, they are very good at holding stuff in suspension until it can be filtered. Overall, I think your engine would be fine with a 10W30, in spite of the miles, but since you live in the north, and the 5W and 0W30 HDEO oils are so expensive, the 5W40 oil will help your cold starts. There are ways to objectively determine if your engine needs a heavier oil, but you have enough complications as it is now and the 5W40 covers a broad range of temps.
Quote:
This means that many of the miles were put on at low speed, high load with quite a bit of idling also
I would suggest Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30. Excellent cleaning and it's using the new additive chemistry. It's also SL so you're getting more ZDP as well, which may help under the low speed/high load.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
Quote:
Note 1 -- If your engine has excessive sludge deposits due to less-than-adequate maintenance practices, Mobil 1 High Mileage can help by reducing the sludge left behind in your engine. For severe cases of sludge, short oil change intervals (3000 - 5000 miles) are recommended for the first 2-3 oil changes as reduction of the sludge takes place. In cases of engine damage that may have resulted from poor maintenance, even Mobil 1 cannot remedy years of neglect.
This means that many of the miles were put on at low speed, high load with quite a bit of idling also
I would suggest Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30. Excellent cleaning and it's using the new additive chemistry. It's also SL so you're getting more ZDP as well, which may help under the low speed/high load.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
Quote:
Note 1 -- If your engine has excessive sludge deposits due to less-than-adequate maintenance practices, Mobil 1 High Mileage can help by reducing the sludge left behind in your engine. For severe cases of sludge, short oil change intervals (3000 - 5000 miles) are recommended for the first 2-3 oil changes as reduction of the sludge takes place. In cases of engine damage that may have resulted from poor maintenance, even Mobil 1 cannot remedy years of neglect.
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