1992 Mistubishi 3000GT VR4 (twin turbo) new engine, oil recommendations

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Hello everyone, it's been a while since i've posted here. I read around the forums every now and then. You guys really know your stuff when it comes to lubrication. This is the only place I will come when it comes to info/advice on lubrication.

A roller rocker recently popped off my lifter in the front head on an exhaust valve, and ended up bending my valve. I'm now in the process of completely rebuilding, which I have been putting off for a long time. Going with a brand new short block, ported/polished heads, the whole 9 yards. I already have bigger turbos, the car will have atleast 500 crank hp when i'm done with it, should be by the end of the summer.

Before the valve bent, I had 160k on the original motor. Everything will be brand new after the rebuild. Oil pump, water pump, everything. I was using Chevron Delo 15w-40 (with excellent results) before the engine "blew". I figured with 160k, a rebuild is in order. Bending a valve was just a push for me to finally do it.

Once i'm done (should be by the end of summer or so) I plan on breaking in with normal "dino" oil first. I'll be using 10w-30 (what the service manual recommends for my climate range), most likely Castrol or Penzoil. After the first 2000-3000 miles or so, I want to switch to a "synthetic" permanitally, I was thinking Mobil1 0w-40. The car will be driven hard, trips to the drag strip, etc etc... Anyone have any recommendations? Any help, input, advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
I think an oil with a robust additive package is in order, and I personally feel you can do better than M1 0W40.

I'd be suggesting Motul 300V, Redline or even a HDEO like T&SUV in the 5W30 viscosity range.
 
Leo - I was also thinking an HDEO oil. Due to the boost level and excessive amounts of load the engine will be seeing, do you think an oil with a viscosity of a range of xw-40 would be better? I would like to go with an oil that is readily available in stores around me, something that I wouldn't have to mail order, however with putting the amount of money in this engine as I am, mail ordering oil is starting not to bother me as much, since a good quality oil is an excellent safe guard toward engine wear.
 
JHZR2 - Thanks for the reply. I was also thinking Mobil1 5w-40 as well. The truck and SUB formula. I also hear good things about Shell Rotella 5w-40. What do you think?
 
good luck finding the M1.

I use the rotella in my BMW, its fine oil too, and a decent price point too!

JMH
 
What are the differences/recommendations between M1 0w-40 and Rotella 5w-40? Any which one better then the other? I think i read somewhere that Rotella 5w-40 doesnt have any friction modifiers in it? I just made a trip to Walmart to pick up somethings and took a swing by the automotive section. Rotella and M1 are readily available there.
 
Why is the 40 wt so appealing to you? I thought 30 Wt was recomended? And remember, the more space between the first and second number, the more viscosity additives there are, which means less base stock.

I would go with a fully synthetic 10W30 and change it somehwere between 3K-5K.

If it's being raced alot, then I would probably change it once every month or two, depending on how much racing and driving you are doing.

Are these 40 wts better for racing or something? Thicker better for higher HP and heat from the turbo?

I have a Talon AWD, EVO3 16G turbo on it. I use Supertech Synth, 2500 mile OCI daily driver.
 
Oh yeah about filters:

I am using Walmart ST filters right now but may switch to Pureone.

If I had the VR4 with 500 HP, I would probably use Mitsu filters, or wix.
 
Speedy - I just figured a 40wt would provide more protection between bearings and such, especially with all the heat from the turbos.
 
we are running M1 0w-40 in my brother's VR-4, and get great UOA results.

I think Id prefer GC or an amsoil 30wt offering, but we got a great deal on a LOT of the M1, and its in no way a bad oil, even if it shears to a 30wt. GC is doable for you as itsnot mail order and can be gotten at autozone. However, availability and potential major changes are an issue...

Now, my brother doesnt drag race his, but it sees a lot of bost and fast highway speeds...

Unfortunately if you cant get GC and dont want to ue M1 0w40 mail order will be a necessity, that said, there are a number of oils from redline and amsoil that can be obtained easily and will do quite well!

JMH

JMH
 
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