1989 Toyota Pickup - Front wheel bearing preload?

[DemoFly]

I did the front brakes on a Toyota pickup and I did the front bearings as per the FSM and it says 18ft.lbs for the final torque after backing off from fully tight to seat the bearing into the race. But that seemed much too loose. I ended up torquing it to about 45ft.lbs to remove all play and the hub and rotor spin freely in a way that feels "right".

With an average-thrust spin it comes to a stop in about 1 rotation.

Is this okay or should I take it all back apart and get grease everywhere again?

 

[Lubener]

Is this a tapered roller bearing? My thinking is if it is loose when torqued to factory specs, something is worn. You are almost three times the factory torque spec, not good.

 

[BrianF]

Interesting. I do the same for the tapered bearings on my horse trailer. I crank them on my feel, back them off and tighten just enough to get the slop out, when they feel "right." They run cool under weight on long trips. Must work.

 

[meep]

These should be roller bearings. We did these back in the 80s without a torque wrench all the time, doing the exact same as BrianF. I think 45 ft/lbs is too much. Perhaps they were having trouble seating. Take it for a drive around the block, then remove the nut and re-check. You may have gotten it to seat right afterwards based on the 1 full rotation, but I’d want to make sure. No need to regrease.

 

[spasm3]

Interesting. I do the same for the tapered bearings on my horse trailer. I crank them on my feel, back them off and tighten just enough to get the slop out, when they feel "right." They run cool under weight on long trips. Must work.

This. I adjust for almost no drag. The bearings need room. Too tight and they heat up and seize, regardless of how much grease is in there.

 

[nthach]

I’ve always spin the wheel while tightening the spindle nut until lock, then back off until finger tight. Lately, I’ve been using a dial indicator as recommended by Mercedes and setting a little play - a tiny bit of play to show on a dial indicator but still “tight” to axial movement to the eye and wrist.

 

[DemoFly]

I will redo it tomorrow. I wanted to avoid going back in because I hate grease getting on everything lol.

 

[clinebarger]

I’ve always spin the wheel while tightening the spindle nut until lock, then back off until finger tight. Lately, I’ve been using a dial indicator as recommended by Mercedes and setting a little play - a tiny bit of play to show on a dial indicator but still “tight” to axial movement to the eye and wrist.

I adjust them with a little play as well......

 

[zrxkawboy]

I've used the same method for 30 years: tighten while spinning the wheel, then back off til the nut can be moved with fingers, then tighten it finger tight (literally finger tight...no socket or other tools).

 

[DemoFly]

It's pretty terrifying to know that the only thing holding the front wheels on is a finger tight bolt and 45ft.lb lock nut. Thin nuts at that.

I tightened it hand tight with my hand on the socket. Went for a 10 mile drive and the hubs were only ~73 degrees with an ambient temp of 50. That includes heat from bedding the front brake pads.

 

[JZiggy]

Toyota usually specs a preload force -- put a spring gauge on a lug nut and pull 90* to the hub. See how much force it takes to get it moving. That's the method I use on my 88 4Runner (after doing the 18 ft-lb, back off, etc. method first).