1989 Econoline 350 RV

If you have the "coffee can" vacuum reservoir it may have rusted through, causing driveability issues. Ford used type F in PS well through the 90s, and RVs are typically conservative in using the tried n true powertrain stuff.
Ford was using Type F for PS fluid up into the '90s, and a HIGH PERFORMANCE OVERSIZE thermostat WILL move more coolant, and a higher perf water pump (if one is available for the 460) and a good clutch or flex fan will move more air. I had a '73 Class A 24 foot 440 Dodge RV back in the day (aerodynamics of a large brick), and it made it over the Smoky Mtns. in summer pulling a car with a tow bar behind it-and it didn't blow up!
I was talking about thermostat temperature only. Higher does not reduce cooling capacity. Just advising the guy not to use F unless he is sure it takes it. Lot of people wrongly put F in Ford transmissions. I know it is PS.
it might list the transmission fluid type on the dipstick. If there was ever something I would be a 180 t-stat in.. it would be a 460 powered RV. Those are worked hard and run hot.
Does this HAVE a MAF sensor? I thought Ford trucks were speed-density until 1996. Trans temp gauge is a good idea. So is a deep, finned pan. If it runs hot, check the fan clutch.
Originally Posted by ripcord
Did you pull it out to check it or was it like that? I wonder if it blew out after a backfire?
It was like that after i got home and pulled the doghouse.
Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
The C6 is a robust transmission. I highly recommend at a minimum a Trans Go Shift Kit, they transform the way the unit works. Crisp shifts, without being harsh, increased line pressure, better all around. If you want gear control (the ability to command downshifts at any speed) the Trans Go Reprogramming kit will allow that as well. Both can be installed in the vehicle with basic hand tools. By in the vehicle I mean the transmission stays in the vehicle, the entire C6 valve body unbolts and you can install the entire kit on a work bench.
Have seen a few YouTube videos of this, looks pretty easy to do. Thanks for the info on driving improvements.
Originally Posted by samven
After all the needed maint. and your sure its good to go, get some Firestone Ride Rite air bags for the rear end. Those older Class C's with a lot of overhang off the rear axle are notorious for sagging and dragging on every hill and driveway and most of them compound the problem by putting all the storage compartments in the back behind the axle. I got a set and installed them on mine in about 3 hrs. They bolt up with no drilling required. And make sure you caulk all the seams and windows with RV caulk. Once water gets in it can rot the box structure as they use plain old 2x3 and particle bd.
Already got airbags in the suspension, I had to air them down because it rode pretty harsh. With 10-15 psi in then it was much better, but it was only me solo and I travel really light.
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
[quote=FarnsworthOP can send me their VIN and I can send them what it gives me. OASIS won't run because it is too old, but there might be some info in my catalog. Older vehicles, basically 2000 and older, and E-series especially are hit and miss as far as the VIN giving us information.
PM sent! Also here are some pictures of the rear diff tag and cover once cleaned off a bit, looks like 3.54 gears? What's the expected capacity of this differential? [Linked Image] [Linked Image]
Picture shows a height control valve for the air ride, but it may be disconnected or not working. And obviously that rear sway bar is a recent addition. The fan clutch should be considered suspect if there's any miles at all on it. Also make sure the top and bottom fan shrouds are in place.
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Transmission dipstick lists Mercon. [Linked Image] Already bought two gallons of Maxlife ATF at Menards. Probably go for a third.
Originally Posted by mk378
Picture shows a height control valve for the air ride, but it may be disconnected or not working. And obviously that rear sway bar is a recent addition. The fan clutch should be considered suspect if there's any miles at all on it. Also make sure the top and bottom fan shrouds are in place.
My in laws added the sway bar and airbags, they are remotely filled or dumped from the white gauge in the far right of the dash, visible here. [Linked Image]
75/140 or 85/140 in rear axle. OEM temp thermostat, EFI will be much happier. New fan clutch excellent suggestion. Ford started using Dexron in C6 in late 70's - should be the spec for yours. I'd use 15w40 - that motorhome qualifies as severe use. Those 460's will run nearly forever if maintained. I have a collection of them.
What's the expected capacity of this differential?
Pretty much anything you can throw at it. Keep it full of 75W-140 and I'd expect it to outlast the vehicle six times over. What's with the radio on the dash? ???
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Pretty much anything you can throw at it. Keep it full of 75W-140 and I'd expect it to outlast the vehicle six times over.
Well I was trying to figure out how many quarts of Synpower 75w140 to buy, so far it seems like a gallon should do it.
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
What's with the radio on the dash? ???
Hahaha... it has a flip-up screen. My stepfather in law didn't figure out it wouldn't clear the dash overhang until he installed it in the dash, so this was his solution. I have a box full of parts coming from RockAuto now... new fan clutch, radiator cap, 180ºF thermostat, thermostat flange seal, transmission filter, transmission pan seal, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, drain plug, crush washer...
I cleaned an inch of dirt off the power steering fluid cap and all it says "use approved fluid"... and nothing showing on the dipstick. Already got Maxlife for the transmission which specs Mercon on the dipstick. Do I use it in the power steering system? Type F? Generic power steering fluid? What's typical for a 1989 Econoline?
I think they used Type F back then. That being said you are fine with MaxLife. Ford tends to use ATF because it keeps it less complicated. It is just being used as a hydraulic fluid anyway.
Wow. What a nicely kept RV. That dash picture still shows a clean, rich wood stain and poly, with a spotless dash. They took good care of it, didn't they? The backfiring... I hope is not a hot spot on an exhaust valve. I've seen that a couple of times and it's a head rework. Hopefully it's just running lean. Nobody has mentioned.... all the rubber hoses, especially anything with coolant or oil. These run hot in that little cave. Did ford run the fuel rail coolers in these to prevent vapor lock? I can't tell by the pics. Btw- excellent photos of the parts in question... well done for us to see. Very nice find, hows the interior, plumbing, and roof? Someone mentioned it before, the smallest leak = wood rot, very quickly. Just like boats don't age well in water, RVs don't age well outside. M
There is some water damage from the rear picture window in the back bedroom, but as part of the remodel we're pulling out all the paneling, repairing the leaks, replacing the window weatherstripping and installing sound deadening before reinsulating & installing new cabinets/wall panels. Electrics, LP & plumbing seem OK so far.
May I suggest you pull off the rear wheels and drums and inspect the brakes. A heavy chassis like this is brutal on the rear brakes. New drums and shoes would greatly improve the safety of the rig. Needless to say make sure the front discs and pads are in good shape. Good luck! beer
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My girlfriend and I almost bought an 87 about the same as that (but with a carburetor). Her uncle was going to sell it to us for $3000 and then it needed $3000 for a safety. I think he was being ripped off, it appeared to need one tire, they called for 7 tires and a new windshield, among other things that it may actually have needed. It was an awesome rig though. EFI would be nice to have but it sure looks harder to work on than the carbed version we were looking at it. Congratulations on the purchase and hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it.
Finally getting around to starting the mechanical work today with a coolant flush, going to refill with conventional green and plan on changing it every two years. We've been busy ripping out the back bedroom and discovering the source of all the water leaks - just completed a nice Solidworks model of how we want to renovate it and will start putting in new stick framing in the areas we need it for the new bed frames & cabinets.
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