1989 Econoline 350 RV

S

scurvy

Joined
Feb 19, 2007
Messages
2,405
Location
Chicago IL USA
Howdy - Just agreed to buy this 26' class C RV from my in-laws and I need some help from the hive mind on catch-up maintenance as well as issues to look out for. It's a 1989 Lindy 2600, built on a Ford Econoline 350 chassis. 460 V8, C6 three speed transmission. Definitely needs some TLC. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] Here's what I have planned: It ran a bit warm on the drive home: Flush the coolant system, replace the thermostat with OE temperature, replace radiator hoses. Refill with standard green coolant? G05? Transmission was a quart low, drove better after topping up. Drop the pan, replace with one that has a drain plug, replace the filter, refill with Maxlife. Any experiences with adding a shift kit to a C6? [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] Put a bottle of Rislone in the crankcase (last oil change was ???), will put a few hundred miles on it, then change for 15w40. Plan to change it again before winter regardless of mileage. Seems to seep a little, possibly from drain plug - hopefully not rear main seal. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] Brake fluid: drain & refill for now, flush in the spring. Power steering fluid: drain & refill, but use ATF? Rear differential: Need to determine which one it has but pretty much all of them appear to use 75w90? Use Valvoline Synpower gear lube. Other issues noted: Backfires if you let off the gas suddenly - is this indicative of the MAP sensor going bad? It has a Sceptre "cold" air intake on it - would I be better off with the OEM air filter housing? Probably have to start trolling junkyards to find one. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] Any other recommendations for a manual or online resources? Thanks!
 
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Did it sit long before you drove it? I would imagine some seals likely dried out.
 
That drip looks like it came from the drain plug, but hard to know for sure without cleaning that area up first.
 
Why not 10w30 for the oil? Sounds like you may need to some High Mileage if you're leaking. The power steering probably calls for type-F. Personally, I would use Dex/Merc in an 80's C6, just because, and do a drain and fill every 20K. Also, there are two externally adjustable bands on that transmission. Adjusting may help with shifting issues. Might not. smile Ford is recommending 75w140 synthetic in Sterling and Dana heavy duty axles, one of which is in your rig. Are you backfiring out the tail pipe or through the intake? Backfiring is often an ignition problem of some sort. Look under the cap and check for carbon tracing. I would plan on a full tune up, adjust the timing, etc. Another thing to be aware of is that the EFI Ford equipped motor homes are notorious for weak fuel pumps. Consider checking fuel pressure under load if you have drivability issues.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Did it sit long before you drove it? I would imagine some seals likely dried out.
Indeed it has, although it has seen occasional use over the past 2 - 3 years.
Originally Posted by BAJA_05
Plugs/Wires/Cap and Rotor!!! Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner -- per instructions on bottle!!!
Yep, those are on the list as well. Front spark plugs look like a PITA to get to from inside or outside. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Originally Posted by JustN89
That drip looks like it came from the drain plug, but hard to know for sure without cleaning that area up first.
My thought as well, going to replace it with a new one with a fresh crush washer and a magnet. FWIW here's the rear axle if any Ford experts can help identify it. It has 70 - 80 cast into the housing. [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com] [Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
Looks like a DANA 80 Axle from the cover. The 70 version has a different shaped cover. [Linked Image]
 
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Originally Posted by ripcord
That's a DANA rear axle. Ford recommend 75w140 for all types in your rig.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by ripcord
Also, I notice your PCV valve is hanging disconnected in one of those photos.
Originally Posted by mk378
PCV valve fell out or got blown out.
Hahaha, yep, already plugged back in.
 
The C6 is a robust transmission. I highly recommend at a minimum a Trans Go Shift Kit, they transform the way the unit works. Crisp shifts, without being harsh, increased line pressure, better all around. If you want gear control (the ability to command downshifts at any speed) the Trans Go Reprogramming kit will allow that as well. Both can be installed in the vehicle with basic hand tools. By in the vehicle I mean the transmission stays in the vehicle, the entire C6 valve body unbolts and you can install the entire kit on a work bench.
 
Your rear axle is a Dana 80, similar to the one in my F-450-they used 80W90 originally, but 75W140 is a better option. Make sure the axle vent & hose is clear & open, or the rear axle will fill the rear brakes (drum in your case) with gear oil. My Dana 80 did it, but I had rotors with no parking brakes inside so it just made an annoying mess, but it can be very dangerous if gear oil ruins your rear brakes and you don't realize it (it happened on an E-250 company van to me years ago, took 2 minor accidents to figure out the issue)!
 
Adding, check your radiator-it's probably at least partially plugged. A radiator shop boil out will likely help, as will a 180F or lower high performance thermostat.
 
After all the needed maint. and your sure its good to go, get some Firestone Ride Rite air bags for the rear end. Those older Class C's with a lot of overhang off the rear axle are notorious for sagging and dragging on every hill and driveway and most of them compound the problem by putting all the storage compartments in the back behind the axle. I got a set and installed them on mine in about 3 hrs. They bolt up with no drilling required. And make sure you caulk all the seams and windows with RV caulk. Once water gets in it can rot the box structure as they use plain old 2x3 and particle bd.
 
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You can use the vin to get a lot of info, or a Ford dealer if they are open. A lower temp thermostat than OE is wrong on any car. The cooling capacity is not increased, it can foul up the sensor signal, causes more sludge to build up, and lowers gas mileage. I don't think any type F fluid is used unless it is written on the PS cap. The Mobil 1 website has fluid recommendations but Ford is the best source. You may be just throwing money away on some things. I tend to keep as is until I get a feel for what's needed.
 
Originally Posted by Farnsworth
You can use the vin to get a lot of info, or a Ford dealer if they are open. A lower temp thermostat than OE is wrong on any car. The cooling capacity is not increased, it can foul up the sensor signal, causes more sludge to build up, and lowers gas mileage. I don't think any type F fluid is used unless it is written on the PS cap. The Mobil 1 website has fluid recommendations but Ford is the best source. You may be just throwing money away on some things. I tend to keep as is until I get a feel for what's needed.
OP can send me their VIN and I can send them what it gives me. OASIS won't run because it is too old, but there might be some info in my catalog. Older vehicles, basically 2000 and older, and E-series especially are hit and miss as far as the VIN giving us information.
 
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