Sweet car. I would run Mobil 1 0W-40 SN year-round.
1987 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX
- Thread starter Milano
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Milano
Interesting no one liked the 10w40 in this application. I would've thought that would be nice for the expected hot summer coming up and help with sheer
If one is worried about that, I would personally make different recommendations. A 10w-30 HDEO or a 15w-40 would come ahead of a 10w-40 for me.
Interesting no one liked the 10w40 in this application. I would've thought that would be nice for the expected hot summer coming up and help with sheer
If one is worried about that, I would personally make different recommendations. A 10w-30 HDEO or a 15w-40 would come ahead of a 10w-40 for me.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Milano
Interesting no one liked the 10w40 in this application. I would've thought that would be nice for the expected hot summer coming up and help with sheer
If one is worried about that, I would personally make different recommendations. A 10w-30 HDEO or a 15w-40 would come ahead of a 10w-40 for me.
Agree, 100%.
Originally Posted By: Milano
Interesting no one liked the 10w40 in this application. I would've thought that would be nice for the expected hot summer coming up and help with sheer
If one is worried about that, I would personally make different recommendations. A 10w-30 HDEO or a 15w-40 would come ahead of a 10w-40 for me.
Agree, 100%.
Welcome to the Panther family! Beautiful car.
I personally don't like using HM oil unless my car is burning or leaking oil. If that were my car, I'd run a SN 10w-30 or 10w-40 dino oil such as QSGB, Havoline, or right mobil is running a $7 rebate on 5 quarts of MS5K.
I may even be inclined to try synthetic for the first time because right now you can find really good deals on them. For instance this month at AAP, 5 qts of QSUD and fram orange can for $19.99- combine that with a $7 rebate from quaker state-- you're getting 5 qts of quality synthetic and an oil filter for $12.99. Also PP has a $10 rebate per 5 qts.
I personally don't like using HM oil unless my car is burning or leaking oil. If that were my car, I'd run a SN 10w-30 or 10w-40 dino oil such as QSGB, Havoline, or right mobil is running a $7 rebate on 5 quarts of MS5K.
I may even be inclined to try synthetic for the first time because right now you can find really good deals on them. For instance this month at AAP, 5 qts of QSUD and fram orange can for $19.99- combine that with a $7 rebate from quaker state-- you're getting 5 qts of quality synthetic and an oil filter for $12.99. Also PP has a $10 rebate per 5 qts.
There is no reason to overanalyze this. Older cars require xW-40, not xW-30, especially if they have high mileage. Since synthetic is preferred and M1 0W-40 SN 5 qt is only $22.88 at Amazon Prime, go, order it. It will clean the sludge, fully protect the engine, and last for 5,000 - 10,000 miles.
I prefer OEM oil filters (Motorcraft FL-1-A or FL-300, for 5.0 L and 5.8 L engines, respectively, available at Amazon Prime). M1 EP tops the aftermarket filters but it's expensive.
They claim high efficiency and high capacity, both of which are what you need, especially for older cars:
I prefer OEM oil filters (Motorcraft FL-1-A or FL-300, for 5.0 L and 5.8 L engines, respectively, available at Amazon Prime). M1 EP tops the aftermarket filters but it's expensive.
They claim high efficiency and high capacity, both of which are what you need, especially for older cars:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Milano
Hi Overkill thanks for jumping in!
#1 Will do. The passenger side is leaking. Figures it's the side that's tougher to get to with the smog pump [censored] in the way. No problem, will get it done. Should replace with original type cork or go rubber?
No problem
IMHO, there are two "best" options for these: the silicone Felpro gaskets and the OEM silicone ones for the Ford Explorer with the 302. Take your pick. You may be able to get the Felpro ones cheaper. They will never need to be replaced again.
Hi Overkill thanks for jumping in!
#1 Will do. The passenger side is leaking. Figures it's the side that's tougher to get to with the smog pump [censored] in the way. No problem, will get it done. Should replace with original type cork or go rubber?
No problem
IMHO, there are two "best" options for these: the silicone Felpro gaskets and the OEM silicone ones for the Ford Explorer with the 302. Take your pick. You may be able to get the Felpro ones cheaper. They will never need to be replaced again.
And then you can think about Synthetic
Congratulations on your "new" Crown Vic. I worked for a Ford dealership from '85-'91 and prepped/worked on a ton of those cars.
If memory serves, these spec'd 10w30 from the factory (I think the emissions/tune-up sticker under the hood says that) and as a result that was all that we used in them when they were serviced. You should be good with any good 5w30 or 10w30. I don't think you will need a 40 weight oil unless the engine is tired. Also check to see if you have the "double sump" oil pan with two drain plugs. If so (and I think these did) make sure you remove both plugs when draining the oil.
Any FL1A equivalent oil filter is what you need (I'd use a Wix/NAPA Gold, Fram Ultra or a Hastings/Baldwin if it were mine since Motorcraft and Purolator don't seem to be what they once were according to the feedback/photos here).
Enjoy the ride! These cars were great cruisers.
Andrew S.
If memory serves, these spec'd 10w30 from the factory (I think the emissions/tune-up sticker under the hood says that) and as a result that was all that we used in them when they were serviced. You should be good with any good 5w30 or 10w30. I don't think you will need a 40 weight oil unless the engine is tired. Also check to see if you have the "double sump" oil pan with two drain plugs. If so (and I think these did) make sure you remove both plugs when draining the oil.
Any FL1A equivalent oil filter is what you need (I'd use a Wix/NAPA Gold, Fram Ultra or a Hastings/Baldwin if it were mine since Motorcraft and Purolator don't seem to be what they once were according to the feedback/photos here).
Enjoy the ride! These cars were great cruisers.
Andrew S.
Originally Posted By: dnastrau
Congratulations on your "new" Crown Vic. I worked for a Ford dealership from '85-'91 and prepped/worked on a ton of those cars.
If memory serves, these spec'd 10w30 from the factory (I think the emissions/tune-up sticker under the hood says that) and as a result that was all that we used in them when they were serviced. You should be good with any good 5w30 or 10w30. I don't think you will need a 40 weight oil unless the engine is tired. Also check to see if you have the "double sump" oil pan with two drain plugs. If so (and I think these did) make sure you remove both plugs when draining the oil.
Any FL1A equivalent oil filter is what you need (I'd use a Wix/NAPA Gold, Fram Ultra or a Hastings/Baldwin if it were mine since Motorcraft and Purolator don't seem to be what they once were according to the feedback/photos here).
Enjoy the ride! These cars were great cruisers.
Andrew S.
Yup, this will have the double sump pan with two drain plugs.
Agree on avoiding Purolator/Motorcraft for the moment.
Congratulations on your "new" Crown Vic. I worked for a Ford dealership from '85-'91 and prepped/worked on a ton of those cars.
If memory serves, these spec'd 10w30 from the factory (I think the emissions/tune-up sticker under the hood says that) and as a result that was all that we used in them when they were serviced. You should be good with any good 5w30 or 10w30. I don't think you will need a 40 weight oil unless the engine is tired. Also check to see if you have the "double sump" oil pan with two drain plugs. If so (and I think these did) make sure you remove both plugs when draining the oil.
Any FL1A equivalent oil filter is what you need (I'd use a Wix/NAPA Gold, Fram Ultra or a Hastings/Baldwin if it were mine since Motorcraft and Purolator don't seem to be what they once were according to the feedback/photos here).
Enjoy the ride! These cars were great cruisers.
Andrew S.
Yup, this will have the double sump pan with two drain plugs.
Agree on avoiding Purolator/Motorcraft for the moment.
I noticed that you were unsure about what grease to use. Ford has their own grease specifications, so check to see if Shell Gladius meets Ford specifications.
I use Valvoline Durablend grease because it meets Ford specs and it meets the requirements of the other major car companies and is easy to find.
I use Valvoline Durablend grease because it meets Ford specs and it meets the requirements of the other major car companies and is easy to find.
Hey folks. Long time... I started a job where I'm given a vehicle so I haven't done much with the car for a while....
I used maxlife 10/30 and I burned a bunch and leaked a bunch... I don't blame the oil, I blame the valve cover gaskets and the transmission only having 1st and 2nd gears! I used a Purolator pure one for this.
Last week I had the transmission built over... I don't know who did the last job but it had an incorrect valve body and torque converter in it. My transmission guy added a shift kit, high energy overdrive and reverse bands, new cooling lines and he used an OEM AOD valve body he had in Stock from ages ago. Drives beautiful now. Oh, new transmission mount and oil pump too.. Even changed my loose negative battery terminal free because he didn't want it to not start when I came to pick it up.
he's a friend of a colleague and told me I'm warranteed until he dies lol. According to him it was such a pleasure to work with. I guess the new stuff is over complicated. He used full synthetic mercon LV and says I don't have to worry for 50,000 miles.
I just did the rear diff fluid... Not limited slip so I used Shell Spirax HD 80W-90.. Seems to get good reviews on here and it's what they had at my shop. It seemed very gray coming out and I wasn't happy about that... But there's no noise or anything.
The power steering is screwy. Previous owner changed it (pump and box) and it worked fine when I got the car but now it's difficult every morning... I see he liked to use cheap parts so I'm going to try drain and fill with Redline power steering fluid and if that don't work I'll get a better rebuilt pump. I see Ford specd Mercon in the transmission that year but Type F in the steering? Can anyone confirm?
I've ordered more maxlife and a motorcraft filter this time around.. Hope to get to the valve cover gaskets but it's freezing out. Perhaps now that I'm not revving the heck out of the engine driving in second gear now.... the oil won't burn and leak so much!
I also upgraded the lowbeams to Hella H4 e code housings.. Anyhow, I'm doing this post on my phone and I'm afraid I'm going to lose it so I'm gonna post and add later if I think of more. Thank you guys so much for the insights.
I used maxlife 10/30 and I burned a bunch and leaked a bunch... I don't blame the oil, I blame the valve cover gaskets and the transmission only having 1st and 2nd gears! I used a Purolator pure one for this.
Last week I had the transmission built over... I don't know who did the last job but it had an incorrect valve body and torque converter in it. My transmission guy added a shift kit, high energy overdrive and reverse bands, new cooling lines and he used an OEM AOD valve body he had in Stock from ages ago. Drives beautiful now. Oh, new transmission mount and oil pump too.. Even changed my loose negative battery terminal free because he didn't want it to not start when I came to pick it up.
he's a friend of a colleague and told me I'm warranteed until he dies lol. According to him it was such a pleasure to work with. I guess the new stuff is over complicated. He used full synthetic mercon LV and says I don't have to worry for 50,000 miles. I just did the rear diff fluid... Not limited slip so I used Shell Spirax HD 80W-90.. Seems to get good reviews on here and it's what they had at my shop. It seemed very gray coming out and I wasn't happy about that... But there's no noise or anything.
The power steering is screwy. Previous owner changed it (pump and box) and it worked fine when I got the car but now it's difficult every morning... I see he liked to use cheap parts so I'm going to try drain and fill with Redline power steering fluid and if that don't work I'll get a better rebuilt pump. I see Ford specd Mercon in the transmission that year but Type F in the steering? Can anyone confirm?
I've ordered more maxlife and a motorcraft filter this time around.. Hope to get to the valve cover gaskets but it's freezing out. Perhaps now that I'm not revving the heck out of the engine driving in second gear now.... the oil won't burn and leak so much!
I also upgraded the lowbeams to Hella H4 e code housings.. Anyhow, I'm doing this post on my phone and I'm afraid I'm going to lose it so I'm gonna post and add later if I think of more. Thank you guys so much for the insights.
Wow, that car is NICE. How can even a non car enthusiast not appreciate something like that
Originally Posted By: Milano
Hey folks. Long time... I started a job where I'm given a vehicle so I haven't done much with the car for a while....
I used maxlife 10/30 and I burned a bunch and leaked a bunch... I don't blame the oil, I blame the valve cover gaskets and the transmission only having 1st and 2nd gears! I used a Purolator pure one for this.
Last week I had the transmission built over... I don't know who did the last job but it had an incorrect valve body and torque converter in it. My transmission guy added a shift kit, high energy overdrive and reverse bands, new cooling lines and he used an OEM AOD valve body he had in Stock from ages ago. Drives beautiful now. Oh, new transmission mount and oil pump too.. Even changed my loose negative battery terminal free because he didn't want it to not start when I came to pick it up. he's a friend of a colleague and told me I'm warranteed until he dies lol. According to him it was such a pleasure to work with. I guess the new stuff is over complicated. He used full synthetic mercon LV and says I don't have to worry for 50,000 miles.
I just did the rear diff fluid... Not limited slip so I used Shell Spirax HD 80W-90.. Seems to get good reviews on here and it's what they had at my shop. It seemed very gray coming out and I wasn't happy about that... But there's no noise or anything.
The power steering is screwy. Previous owner changed it (pump and box) and it worked fine when I got the car but now it's difficult every morning... I see he liked to use cheap parts so I'm going to try drain and fill with Redline power steering fluid and if that don't work I'll get a better rebuilt pump. I see Ford specd Mercon in the transmission that year but Type F in the steering? Can anyone confirm?
I've ordered more maxlife and a motorcraft filter this time around.. Hope to get to the valve cover gaskets but it's freezing out. Perhaps now that I'm not revving the heck out of the engine driving in second gear now.... the oil won't burn and leak so much!
I also upgraded the lowbeams to Hella H4 e code housings.. Anyhow, I'm doing this post on my phone and I'm afraid I'm going to lose it so I'm gonna post and add later if I think of more. Thank you guys so much for the insights.
See if you are supposed to run dedicated PS fluid or ATF? I run Maxlife ATF and it has been great in extreme cold.
Hey folks. Long time... I started a job where I'm given a vehicle so I haven't done much with the car for a while....
I used maxlife 10/30 and I burned a bunch and leaked a bunch... I don't blame the oil, I blame the valve cover gaskets and the transmission only having 1st and 2nd gears! I used a Purolator pure one for this.
Last week I had the transmission built over... I don't know who did the last job but it had an incorrect valve body and torque converter in it. My transmission guy added a shift kit, high energy overdrive and reverse bands, new cooling lines and he used an OEM AOD valve body he had in Stock from ages ago. Drives beautiful now. Oh, new transmission mount and oil pump too.. Even changed my loose negative battery terminal free because he didn't want it to not start when I came to pick it up.
he's a friend of a colleague and told me I'm warranteed until he dies lol. According to him it was such a pleasure to work with. I guess the new stuff is over complicated. He used full synthetic mercon LV and says I don't have to worry for 50,000 miles. I just did the rear diff fluid... Not limited slip so I used Shell Spirax HD 80W-90.. Seems to get good reviews on here and it's what they had at my shop. It seemed very gray coming out and I wasn't happy about that... But there's no noise or anything.
The power steering is screwy. Previous owner changed it (pump and box) and it worked fine when I got the car but now it's difficult every morning... I see he liked to use cheap parts so I'm going to try drain and fill with Redline power steering fluid and if that don't work I'll get a better rebuilt pump. I see Ford specd Mercon in the transmission that year but Type F in the steering? Can anyone confirm?
I've ordered more maxlife and a motorcraft filter this time around.. Hope to get to the valve cover gaskets but it's freezing out. Perhaps now that I'm not revving the heck out of the engine driving in second gear now.... the oil won't burn and leak so much!
I also upgraded the lowbeams to Hella H4 e code housings.. Anyhow, I'm doing this post on my phone and I'm afraid I'm going to lose it so I'm gonna post and add later if I think of more. Thank you guys so much for the insights.
See if you are supposed to run dedicated PS fluid or ATF? I run Maxlife ATF and it has been great in extreme cold.
Originally Posted By: Milano
Well I believe it's supposed to just take Type F ATF but some folks mentioned in other threads that using a dedicated power steering fluid will eliminate bubbles and other issues ATF presents... I dunno?
No just check your manual. If you run ATF in you Power steering, a quality synthetic ATF that isn't overfilled will not have bubbling as long as you dont have problems with your PS lines.
Well I believe it's supposed to just take Type F ATF but some folks mentioned in other threads that using a dedicated power steering fluid will eliminate bubbles and other issues ATF presents... I dunno?
No just check your manual. If you run ATF in you Power steering, a quality synthetic ATF that isn't overfilled will not have bubbling as long as you dont have problems with your PS lines.
Originally Posted By: Garak
I used 5w-30 when I had such an engine.
I used the exact same thing in my 85 Vic with the 302. Used only Motorcraft oil and filters. Changed out every 5K miles. No major issues with it for over 250K miles.
I used 5w-30 when I had such an engine.
I used the exact same thing in my 85 Vic with the 302. Used only Motorcraft oil and filters. Changed out every 5K miles. No major issues with it for over 250K miles.
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Milano
Well I believe it's supposed to just take Type F ATF but some folks mentioned in other threads that using a dedicated power steering fluid will eliminate bubbles and other issues ATF presents... I dunno?
No just check your manual. If you run ATF in you Power steering, a quality synthetic ATF that isn't overfilled will not have bubbling as long as you dont have problems with your PS lines.
Found the manual buried in the trunk. Specifies Ford Type F for the P/S. Redline P/S Fluid meets Type F specs, so I should be good!
Originally Posted By: Milano
Well I believe it's supposed to just take Type F ATF but some folks mentioned in other threads that using a dedicated power steering fluid will eliminate bubbles and other issues ATF presents... I dunno?
No just check your manual. If you run ATF in you Power steering, a quality synthetic ATF that isn't overfilled will not have bubbling as long as you dont have problems with your PS lines.
Found the manual buried in the trunk. Specifies Ford Type F for the P/S. Redline P/S Fluid meets Type F specs, so I should be good!
Originally Posted By: FORD4LIFE
I used the exact same thing in my 85 Vic with the 302. Used only Motorcraft oil and filters. Changed out every 5K miles. No major issues with it for over 250K miles.
I avoided the Motorcraft oil up here. It's not the same as what you guys get in the States, but I don't think it ever had anything except an FL-1A. Dealer oil here is a bit too much money.
I used the exact same thing in my 85 Vic with the 302. Used only Motorcraft oil and filters. Changed out every 5K miles. No major issues with it for over 250K miles.
I avoided the Motorcraft oil up here. It's not the same as what you guys get in the States, but I don't think it ever had anything except an FL-1A. Dealer oil here is a bit too much money.
- Status
Similar threads
