1964 Car. Gia/Volkswagon oil viscocity?

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Hi-

Just picked up a 1964 Carmen Gia from my brother with the original engine in it. The car is show quality. I was wondering what the original oil viscocity suggestion was for this car.

Also, Which brand of oil is the best for preventative measures. My brother was suggesting a straight 30 weight.
 
Wow! A '64 VW with the original engine. Very impressive.

I recently read through a 1973 general automotive repair guide I have, including recommened oil weights for typical rides of that era. It had separate recommendations for VWs, calling for 30w in most climates, and 20w or 10w (obsolete weights) for progressively colder climates. Perhaps bug enthusiasts might have newer ideas on what an appropriate weight is, but it appears that the "old school" standard for VW's was straight 30w in moderate climates. (The same book recommended 30w, 5w-30, 10w-30, and 10w-40 for Detroit rides, depending on temps.)

Can't say I know much about optimum oils for air cooled engines, but suffice to say, ANY modern API "SL" oil is light years superior to what your typical hippie grandpa might have used in his VW van 35 year ago. A high-mileage oil could be helpful if the seals are compromised; if so, you might hesitate using a synthetic since those oils tend to take advantage of such seal insufficiencies.
 
Good advice about the synthetic oil. I plan on using a straight dino oil. Any suggestions on which oil brand? Castrol, Chevron??? I'll be chaging the oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months.
 
Cool car!

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mf150 wrote:

Just picked up a 1964 Carmen Gia from my brother with the original engine in it.

I went to school with Carmen Gia.

Call Ernst Kuehn Automotive in Fairfax, Marin, if you have a question regarding proper oil viscosity for any old VW/Porsche, including a Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 415-453-7988

[ April 18, 2004, 01:38 AM: Message edited by: moribundman ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by moribundman:
mf150 wrote:

Just picked up a 1964 Carmen Gia from my brother with the original engine in it.

I went to school with Carmen Gia.

Call Ernst Kuehn Automotive in Fairfax, Marin, if you have a question regarding proper oil viscosity for any old VW/Porsche, including a Volkswagen Karmann Ghia: 415-453-7988


didn't spell the car's name correctly. My correction is as follows: Karmann Ghia

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[ April 18, 2004, 05:16 AM: Message edited by: mf150 ]
 
This thread reminds me of a joke. I'll post it on the General and Off Topic, but doubt it'll stay long.

As to the Veedub, I reckon 30weight HDMO would be a good bet.

I'd love to see one of the hotrod Veedubs running M1 V-Twin 20W-50.
 
If I remember correctly a lot of the older VW owners were Castrol users. These are air cooled engines, right? For temps above 40 F I would use Castrol straight 30. Below 40 F I would use Castrol 10w30.
 
Personally I use Chevron Delo 15W-40 in my 1960s vintage cars which originally specified various straight weight oils depending upon outside temps. I think it would be an excellent choice for the '64 VW. Your car has no oil filter, change it plenty often!

John
 
I had a 1969 new. The now defunct VW dealers then always used Castrol.

My suggestion would be Castrol 20W-50 or if you prefer straight 30wt. HD in above 50F.

Id run the GTX 20W-50 myself all the time.

If I had a classic, I'd run Castrol 20W-50 and change often, like 3K or under.
 
I run Castrol 20W-50 in my summer driven 74 Super Beetle. I use 15W-40 in the cooler fall and spring months.
Change it often!
 
There is absolutely no reason to use straight weights anymore.
I second the Delo 15w-40 recommendation in summer climates, or M1's 15w-50.
Being a long time dub fan, I envy you your Kharmann Ghia!

[ April 19, 2004, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: Lubricious ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Lubricious:
There is absolutely no reason to use straight weights anymore.
I second the Delo 15w-40 recommendation in summer climates, or M1's 15w-50.
Being a long time dub fan, I envy you your Kharmann Ghia!


It's on its way up from San Diego. It is an original engine, so will I have any problems running a synthetic like Mobil 1 @ 2,500 miles intervals? I would think for my 1600cc crate engine, it wouldn't be a problem, but for original seals???

20W50 chevron Dino??? Is that a little much in San Francisco, California???

I will be doing a lot of city commuting, though.

let's take a consensus.

taking into account that this is an original 40 hp motor, what would be the greatest amount of protection regardless of price? Were talking viscocity and brand.
 
I was teethed on the Porsche and VW aircooled horizontily opposed engines through the 70's and built Walt Bowers desert race engines and personally recommend an engine oil like the Delo 10w-30 HD , Shell Rotella straight 30wt or a good HM 10w-30 with a vi around 12cSt at 100c . But since this will carry little to no weight here at BITOG read about this from the man... Gene Berg .

Gene Berg tech tips

If it was a endurance racer I'd likely do something different in terms of oil choice .

BTW , many of those engine seals were replaced long ago because 1964 models were leaking pretty good by 1969
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Air cooled engines are a different animal. Loose clearances when cold and the potential for very high temperatures, making thermal expansion an issue. Old VW engines only hold 2.5qt and have no oil filter. Oil temperature is "regulated" by the fact that thick oil will not flow through the oil cooler, so the pressure relief valve routes oil directly to the bearings when cold. As the oil thins, it goes through the cooler first.

Since you are in the Bay area my vote is for a straight SAE 30 HDMO like Delo or Rotella, which are commonly available in So Cal and should be available there as well. My second choice would be 15W-40 Delo. The extra dispersants in an HDMO should help hold dirt in suspension, since there is no oil filter.

Delo 400, SAE 30
cSt at 100C = 12.0
Flash Point = 242C(468F)
Pour Point = -30C(-22F)
TBN = 8.7
Zinc, wt % = .132
 
"will I have any problems running a synthetic like Mobil 1 @ 2,500 miles intervals? I would think for my 1600cc crate engine, it wouldn't be a problem, but for original seals???"

Seal issues shouldn't come up with the latest versions of M1 ... but you're wasting your money with 2,500 mile drains. Mineral oils will protect just as well in that short amount of time.

"20W50 chevron Dino? Is that a little much in San Francisco, California?"

Nope. The recommendation was 15W40 ... which is thinner than 20W50 and will have a potent additive package as previously stated. I don't know if there is a bad 15W40 on the market but I'd feel most comfortable with Schaeffer, Pennzoil Long Life or Chevron Delo400.

--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jimbo:
Air cooled engines are a different animal. Loose clearances when cold and the potential for very high temperatures, making thermal expansion an issue. Old VW engines only hold 2.5qt and have no oil filter. Oil temperature is "regulated" by the fact that thick oil will not flow through the oil cooler, so the pressure relief valve routes oil directly to the bearings when cold. As the oil thins, it goes through the cooler first.

Since you are in the Bay area my vote is for a straight SAE 30 HDMO like Delo or Rotella, which are commonly available in So Cal and should be available there as well. My second choice would be 15W-40 Delo. The extra dispersants in an HDMO should help hold dirt in suspension, since there is no oil filter.

Delo 400, SAE 30
cSt at 100C = 12.0
Flash Point = 242C(468F)
Pour Point = -30C(-22F)
TBN = 8.7
Zinc, wt % = .132


This bug and ghia specialist told me that he uses nothing but Castrol HD30 in his vintage rides. I'm thinking of doing the same.
 
those air cooled engines are pretty hard on oil. i think amsoil came out with an oil recently that isn't suppose to break down until 2000F. just my 2 cents.
 
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