15W-40 really better?

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I've had a few people tell me that the 15W-40 oils are better than other oils because they are heavier duty and have more detergents is this really true?
 
Not necessarily better in cars that don't need a 40 and certainly not better in cars that need an oil that flow quickly in Nome, Alaska.

Sure the extra add pack will benefit some cars that can use that viscosity.....but will it really add to the life of the engine? I'm thinking a little...but no data.

I use a synthetic 15W-40 in my 253,000 Volvo, btw.
 
The higher additive levels may be better depending on the circumstances. For an older engine it may be very good. You also have to consider it has some stuff in it for diesel use that is not necessairly needed for a gasoline engine, but generally not too big of a deal. They are developed for dual use in gasoline and diesel engines (those rated SL/CF-4 or whatever that diesel rating is).

But I believe the bigger advantage of a 15w40 is that you have a thicker, more robust base oil underlying your viscosity index improver propped upper grade.
 
15w40 might be a bit thick for some vehicles, so a 5w40, 10w30 or 0w30 HDEO might work better, the last two being hard to find in the US. If you look at a chart listing all of the Mobil 1 oils Delvac 1 and Mobil 1 T&S look like a PCMO 'racing oil' when looking at the zinc. I use a Mobil 1 T&S blend in both cars, and will probably switch to straight T&S since it's getting more affordable. In a car a decent dino HDEO seems like it can provide similar wear protection to a 'regular' PCMO synthetic.
 
Citgo Ultralife high mileage oil is supposed to have high levels of zddp. I believe around 1200 ppm, which is well above SL oils. Now that was SL Ultralife. Don't know if they went SM. And that is a PCMO, not a HD. Can get in 10w30 and 10w40.
 
quote:
I've had a few people tell me that the 15W-40 oils are better than other oils because they are heavier duty and have more detergents is this really true?

It is of my opinion that these HDEOs of that weight have the best detergent packages & 5W-20s have the best lubricity packages of all the thin-weight oils recommended by some auto manufacturers as primary use oils in our vehicles.

Being I'm an addicted mixologist, I have recently chosen to mix these two weights equally to form a neighborhood 10W-30 oil in my two daughter's older vehicles using the same oil manufacturer for both weights. Chevron produces my HDEO Delo 400 15w-40 and Havoline 5W-20.

So far - so good... but too early to qualify a discussion on. I remain quite optimistic that I created a nice formulation here.

Signed
Dr. Franken Oilstein.... lol

[ April 29, 2005, 05:36 PM: Message edited by: Triple_Se7en ]
 
Willie,
Yes and yes...if, as Pablo says, the higher viscosity is no problem. Generally it isn't, but also often is no benefit.

All that said, I'm using synthetic 5W-40 in everything in the family fleet, winter and summer.


Ken
 
What's with some people saying the HDEOs may or may not "work" but yet you run them in your own engines? Explain this to me because that make NO sense at all. Obviously you're using HDEO for a reason.

I run HDEO in all of my daily drivers. My Jeep 6 gets Delvac 1300 15W40 and my wife's VW 4s get Rotella 5W40. Dollar for dollar they cannot be beat in terms of performance and protection.
 
There are some folks who think of 15w-40, HDEO's as "poor mans synthetics" and that's why they use them.

This is not exactly a good analogy, although the additive chemstries of these 15w-40's are generally more fortified than API/SM rated, gas engine oils.

I do think the HDEO's are a better value than the "high mileage" oils you see all over the shelves...Those HM oils are mostly a marketing thing.

Tooslick
 
quote:

What's with some people saying the HDEOs may or may not "work" but yet you run them in your own engines? Explain this to me because that make NO sense at all. Obviously you're using HDEO for a reason.

You must go a little deeper into why they won't "work" in some cars. My explanation goes like this: The question was about 15W-40 - and my answer is basically not all cars are good with this viscosity in really cold places. I use a synthetic 15W-40 because it is fine in my car and my climate.
 
Well, down here in Dogpatch . . . .
I started using Delo 15W40 in my daughter's '95 Saturn SC1. Prior to that, the oil, (usually a 10W40 or straight 30 weight), would turn black as tar within 500 miles, and I tried several different brands. In addition to that, the car drank the stuff like Dean Martin at a cocktail party. I was dumping a quart in every 500 to 600 miles. I even tried 20W50 with very little improvement on the consumption and no improvement on color longevity. Then came 15W40. The first batch not only stayed cleaner longer, (like, for the first 1,000 miles), but consumption was cut in half. Something that I find very interesting, (I just checked this morning) - the dipstick. Prior to using the 15W40, the entire dipstick was a coffee brown color, (told me what the inside of the motor was looking like). Just this morning I pulled the dipstick, and there were still a few spots here and there that were brown, but the rest of the stick is nice and shiny and clean, (I went running into the kitchen and showed my wife, "Look sweetheart, look at how clean is my dipstick!!!!!!" "Yes, dear," was all she said. Some people!). I've been using this 15W40 for about 10,000 miles in the "Purple People Eater" - I am well pleased.
 
"I went running into the kitchen and showed my wife, "Look sweetheart, look at how clean is my dipstick!!!!!!" "Yes, dear," was all she said."

Greasyguy,

Great story. But, after you pulled your pants back up, what did she have to say about the CAR'S dipstick.

Maybe some Enzyte is in order??????
 
This is related to HDEO oil. What is the minimum safe temperature to run 15w40? Obviously this depends on application but is there a general rule of thumb for small gas engines? I have a 95 Neon with 127k miles and 87 Chevy Celebrity with 186k miles. Both cars leak/burn about 1 quart every 1k miles. For years now the engines have been on a steady diet of the cheapest 10w40 that happens to be on sale. The lowest temps here are in the high 30s. I want to switch to delo 400.
 
A modern HDEO like the Delo 400 should allow easy starting down to +5F/-15C. An SAE 10w-30, HDEO should be good down to -4F/-20C.

Those used to be the standard, SAE "J-300", test temp for the 10w and 15w grades (Note that the standard J-300 test temps are now 5C lower than before).

If you look at the owners manuals of older European cars, this is the low temp limit they normally use for an SAE 10w-30/15w-40.

TS
 
To bring your viscocity down, a 5w30 or even 5w20 added would bring it down to a 10w30 like grade. I think it makes a good top up for a 5w30 motor oil. Extra viscocity and add pack are helpful near the end of a OCI.

-T
 
If 15w40 was really "better" don't you think most auto makers would be recommending it?
dunno.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
If 15w40 was really "better" don't you think most auto makers would be recommending it?
dunno.gif


With CAFE around, not a snowball's chance in a washing machine set to "HOT".
 
Quote:
If 15w40 was really "better" don't you think most auto makers would be recommending it?


Sometimes I think the automakers are on the verge of making engines self-destruct sooner. I believe the only thing stopping them is a global network of automakers. Had this been 1960s with U.S.A cars everywhere, we may be seeing cheaper, throw-away vehicles at half the cost. Vehicles are lasting longer & longer -- thanks to Japan, Europe, Asia.

Nowadays, you can buy a used car & get another 200K out of it. Making the car body stronger & improving oil flow to allow more robust oils may turn that 200K into infinity.

I don't think that global vehicle network wants to see that.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
If 15w40 was really "better" don't you think most auto makers would be recommending it?
dunno.gif


oh yeah because manufacturers' marketing departments always have our best interests in mind
 
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