15K interval on Motorcraft 5W20!

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I can't see that if the oil was not low that it would be shot.

obviously, if the level was low, heat would increase and speed up any oxidation/evaporation.

But from what I understand most 5w20's have to have at least some group III bases, which would last longer than say a 5w30 with a group I base.

I would have been interested to see her oil leval, then to see what the oil looked like.

I once new a guy that ran his car over almost 80,000 miles without ever check/changing or adding any oil.

It did lock up, and sat at the nissan dealer for like 4 years. The guy just quit paying on it after that, and moved away. But heck 80,000 isn't too bad, I'm sure the last 3,000 miles problably was running on less than a quart!
 
quote:

Originally posted by metroplex:
Patman: M1 5W-30 is 9.7 cSt @ 100C. I wonder how much it would thin out after 7500 miles.

I've seen TriSynthetic 5w30 oil reports in the past where it thinned out to 9.1 or 9.2 cst in less than 5000 miles. The SuperSyn 5w30 seems to be more stable though.
 
I agree with G-MAN, the oil left in the engine was probably an oxidized goo of at least 20W50 or worse, so forget about it thinning out. Probably looked liked thick, black paint and flowed the same way, if it was flowing at all.
 
The Ford Motorcraft 5w-20 has Ford approval, obviously, which means it must pass a tough double-length sequence IIIF test with more stringent viscosity increase limits than the single-length sequence IIIF for API SL. Motorcraft 5w-20 is probably the ideal oil if you prefer to delay your oil changes till the oil pressure light illuminates.
 
I didn't ask for samples, a look into the motor or anything else because honestly I don't give a darn about this persons motor. IMO she is an idiot and gets what she deserves.

I also knew a guy that put Mobil 1 into his Toyota 4Runner (several years back it was a 4 banger) and ran it over 80K. When he sold it it was running fine. Scary isn't it!!!
 
Jay: "Ford approval" ? ROFLMAO

Ford decided to switch to a synth blend 5W-20 because dino 5W-20 couldn't handle normal use!

In all seriousness, use 5W-30 in engines that require 5W-20. You'll only be doing the RIGHT thing instead of trying to boost your gas mileage.
Yes that's right. Using 0W-20, 5W-20, etc... only serves to boost your gas mileage. It is NOT the right oil to use for maximum performance and protection.

I can go through all the evidence again, but 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 would be far better suited to any modern OHC engine than xW-20.
 
quote:

Originally posted by metroplex:
Jay: "Ford approval" ? ROFLMAO

Ford decided to switch to a synth blend 5W-20 because dino 5W-20 couldn't handle normal use!


You keep posting this same nonsense even after folks tell you that it's simply WRONG. Motorcraft 5w20 has always been made by Conoco, and it has ALWAYS been a blend of Group II and Group III. Ford never made any switch from "dino" to a blend. They merely decided to market the Motorcraft oil as a blend because of the Group III component of the base oil blend. Conoco, on the other hand, does not market its Hydroclear 5w20 as a synthetic blend even though it's the exact same oil.
 
Metroplex, I am starting to agree with your opinion on 5w-20 weight, I was beginning to think the 20 weights may hold their own in newer engines but couple things are making me think twice.

Firstly I checked all my engine clearance specs in my shop manual on my 2002 Honda Civic k20a3 engine and compared them to a 99 Honda Civic Si b16a engine. All but two clearance specs were identical between the two vehicle engines. The only clearances that were tighter were piston to pin clearance and pin to rod clearance, thus the piston pin is tighter to the piston and rod. All other major items such as pistons and bearings were identical clearances. One engine used 5w-30 oil, the 2002 calls for 5w-20 oil. So that argument about tighter engine clearances doesn't wash with me.

Secondly, Ford doesn't recommend 5w-20 oil in the Focus SVT engine, but they do in their lower performance Focus cars. Acura RSX-S requires 5w-30 oil and the base Acura RSX calls for 5w-20 oil. We see the higher performance engines on these two cars calling for thicker oil. Ford went so far as listing in a technical service bulletin.

Seems like enough evidence to me to keep using 5w-30 oil and forget about a few tenths of mpg.

Sorry that is is turning into a 5w-20 vs. 5w-30 post/argument. just my two cents

Joey
 
quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:
Metroplex, I am starting to agree with your opinion on 5w-20 weight, I was beginning to think the 20 weights may hold their own in newer engines but couple things are making me think twice.

Firstly I checked all my engine clearance specs in my shop manual on my 2002 Honda Civic k20a3 engine and compared them to a 99 Honda Civic Si b16a engine. All but two clearance specs were identical between the two vehicle engines. The only clearances that were tighter were piston to pin clearance and pin to rod clearance, thus the piston pin is tighter to the piston and rod. All other major items such as pistons and bearings were identical clearances. One engine used 5w-30 oil, the 2002 calls for 5w-20 oil. So that argument about tighter engine clearances doesn't wash with me.

Secondly, Ford doesn't recommend 5w-20 oil in the Focus SVT engine, but they do in their lower performance Focus cars. Acura RSX-S requires 5w-30 oil and the base Acura RSX calls for 5w-20 oil. We see the higher performance engines on these two cars calling for thicker oil. Ford went so far as listing in a technical service bulletin.

Seems like enough evidence to me to keep using 5w-30 oil and forget about a few tenths of mpg.


It seems to me that what we are seeing is car makers who produce cars/engines that they expect to be driven hard (and possibly in amateur competition) are going to recommend heavier oils than 5w20. We've seen this with BMW requiring 10w60 Castrol for the M3, when other models come with 5w30. This does not mean, IMO, that 5w20 won't provide adequate protection under normal conditions, it's just not the ideal grade for high performance engines that are tuned to run on the edge.
 
Oh oh, it's happening again!

 -
 
It's not just clearances that influence viscosity requirements but tolerances . Parts with smoother surfaces can handle thinner oils better. These 20-weight discussions always seem to ignore the simple fact that oil sometimes gets cold. They always focus on the operating temperature regime of operation where wear is low and forget that most engine wear occurs at startup and during warmup where a thinner oil has an advantage.

In any case, we can theorize all we want, but the UOA's, so far, have proven that the 20-weights work well. We'll get a better picture of how well as more of them come in.
 
Aren't tolerances the amount of error we're allowed when trying to hit the specified measurement, in this case the clearances? Surface roughness is a different specification, and it also has tolerances (how much we're allowed to miss the spec).


Ken

[ February 15, 2003, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
 
my dad a brand new toyata corralla in 1989 he beat the crap out of that car his first oil change was at 64000 miles when the oil light came on then every 10000 to 15000 after that with the cheapest crap oil i got that car at 170000 miles i changed every 5000 sometimes 7500 miles from there on believe it or not at 270000 miles when i finally got rid of it that car ran great engine was quite also it had an overheating problem for almost 100000 miles i wish i still owned that car most of of the car was origanil
 
Jc1990

I have a 1987 toyota corolla with 183k miles but my story is different from yours. I bought the car for 2k in 1997 with 138k miles when I totalled my truck. The windshield was cracked, the muffler was rusted through, the brakes grinded, the engine overheated. Sad to say, in 1/2000 my corolla head gasket went and one spark plug got seized into the block from overheating. After a recommendation of a 2k rebuild, I retired the car in my driveway for the past three years. Still trying to figure out what to do with it. lol

your dad's car had 270k miles in 13 yrs? wow! the lack of oil changes probably lasted because the car was driven on the highway alot.

[ February 18, 2003, 12:33 PM: Message edited by: Cutehumor ]
 
yes the corrala was driven mostly highway as he had a package delivery company and by 1996 when we got rid of the car it still ran great the carberator was starting to go but it had origanil clutch starter alternator radaitor best car i ever had just wish my 97 pontiac was half as good that has to be about the worst car i have owned
 
quote:

Originally posted by jc1990:
yes the corrala was driven mostly highway as he had a package delivery company and by 1996 when we got rid of the car it still ran great the carberator was starting to go but it had origanil clutch starter alternator radaitor best car i ever had just wish my 97 pontiac was half as good that has to be about the worst car i have owned

Ahhhhh, Toyota.....fine car. My family had one about 1974-1984. I was a zit-faced teenager then, but I loved it, just loved it. None of this wonderful synthetic Amsoil, Aral, Fuchs, Castrol, Schaeffer in those days. Every 6 to 8 months, we just handed it over to the grease jockey at the local gasoline station and said, "oil change." Never knew, never cared what the guy poured into the engine. Ditto for the oil filter.

Fast forward to 1990. Bought a Suzuki Sidekick new, and used only dino oil Castrol GTX 20w50. Car stolen from me in 12/93. Replaced with a Ford Bronco full-size. Now, I am happily back with a Suzuki Sidekick, a 4-door Sport version. Has 4 years and 38,000 miles on it.

The Toyota's and Suzuki's were the best thing ever to happen to me. The Ford Bronco was the worst thing ever to happen to me. That Bronco and my Ex's Ford Thunderbird were the worst cars I've ever had to deal with.

Mind you, I never had engine problems(thanks, Castrol!) with either Bronco or Thud, but the clutch, electtricals and cooling systems made sure that I got out of my driveway only 50 percent of the time!
 
My 87 Acura Intergra went 209k miles on dino and Jiffy Lube oil changes at 3-6k intervals and it was going strong when I traded it in. I traded it in because the AC was out and the struts were shot. I think at a certain point with a car, everything falls apart.

I am running 5W-30 in my 03 Ford Mustang, and using Motorcraft filters. I am changing every 3000 miles. Unless I am missing something, and it really is harmful to run something other than 5W-20 in the engine, than I would think that is good maintenance.
 
Americanflag, your Integra could have gone another
200K without everything falling apart. I learned this
the hard way when I got rid of my '86 Chevy Nova (which
is really a Toyota Corolla) at 234,000 miles because I was
worried about future reliability and the possibility of
major repairs. The new owner drove it to 394,000 without
major repairs! Boy was I mad. Been an Asian car loyalist
ever since. Hondas/Toyotas/
Nissans are just hitting their stride at 200K.

Your AC probably died because you did not run it once
a week in the winter. With regular use, Asian AC systems
rarely ever break down.
 
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