'14 Subaru WRX | PU 5W30 | 7,500mi change

[Julch]

This is my first new car, I've tried to be as on top of my oil change and maintenance as possible (Subaru WRX 2014). Doing UOA's to keep track of how my engine is performing.

UOA Done by Blackstone on my second oil change (first oil change was at 3,000 mi, second was at 7,500 mi as per Subaru recommendations).

Am running Pennzoil Ultra 5W/30 with the blue Subaru OEM filter; daily driver with some aggressive driving on occasion.

Code:
MI on Oil 4,500

MI on Unit 7,500

Sample Date 07/23/14

Make Up Oil Added 0 qt

Oil Type PENNZOIL ULTRA 5W/30



Universal Avgs

ALUMINUM 7 4

CHROMIUM 1 1

IRON 15 9

COPPER 7 9

LEAD 0 3

TIN 3 1

MOLYBDENUM 170 73

NICKEL 1 0

MANGANESE 1 2

SILVER 1 0

TITANIUM 2 1

POTASSIUM 0 2

BORON 87 45

SILICON 16 10

SODIUM 6 30

CALCIUM 2342 1908

MAGNESIUM 19 423

PHOSPHORUS 774 831

ZINC 865 982

BARIUM 0 0



SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 55.3

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 8.85

Flashpoint in °F 375

Fuel %
Antifreeze % 0.0

Water % 0.0

Insolubles 0.3

TBN

TAN

ISO CODE


Comments from Blackstone:
Quote:
The only thing reading out of line in this sample was silicon, but that's a pretty common find in new engines. It's just residual from seals used when the engine was assembled, and it usually takes two or three oil changes for all of the residual silicon to wash out completely. That might also be why our metals are just a little high compared to averages, from wear-in of new parts. Universal averages are based on ~3,900 miles of oil use, so your metals really aren't bad on a longer oil run, but you may see some improvements next time. All in all, a very nice report here!


What are your thoughts/comments?

I plan on doing the next oil change at 15k miles.


-Jeff

 

[webfors]

Looks good. Many turbo subaru owners go to a thicker 30 weight, or even a 40 weight. The 2014 has the 2.5L without DI, but the flash and viscosity still took a hit so there's shearing going on.

If this were my car I would use M1 0w40, RT6 5w40 or heck even one of my favourite HTHS 3.5+ 30 weights RT5 10w30!

 

[Julch]

Hmm yeah I remember reading about that, I was just concerned about voiding warranty work as I hear Subaru can be a stickler when it comes to checking your oil to see if you're using 30 weight. What if I were to do a half 30 weight half 40 weight mix on my next oil change? Subaru does permit you to add higher weight oil in order to "top off" if oil get burned up...

Not recommended to combine oils like that?

 

[webfors]

Is there any language in the manual allowing for thicker oil other than for top off?

 

[Julch]

Yes I think I can go up to 40 weight for top off.

 

[gomes512]

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the '14 WRX use the new FA2.0 engine with direct injection and not the 2.5 as stated above?

I'd keep doing what your doing at this point. The numbers look good. See if the wear numbers trend down, which they should. Why add a variable at this point?

If the FA20 is put together, seal wise, anything like the FB20 then I'd say that silicon reading is nice and low.

Enjoy the new ride.

 

[6starprez]

Thicker can be used but the manual doesn't give any specifics other than top off with 10W-30, 10W-40, 5W-30 or 5W-40:

"Engine oil viscosity (thickness) affects fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However,
in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine."

 

[Julch]

Originally Posted By: gomes512
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the '14 WRX use the new FA2.0 engine with direct injection and not the 2.5 as stated above?


Gomes, The 2014 is a 2.5 they made the 2015 with the 2.0.

I ran that oil from about April - end of July, so it got some cold and some warm weather. I've been running the last change since July 23rd with the same PU 5W30 type oil...this time it faced the bulk of summer and will have a little early winter riding coming up so I guess I'll see how the 30 weight dealt with the heat.

Would it not be necessary then to change to a 40 weight based on what you see here? Also especially where this next oil change will be driven through what remains of winter (do I want to keep the lower weight for that?).

Thanks for all the replies so far! Very helpful.

 

[6starprez]

Originally Posted By: Julch
Would it not be necessary then to change to a 40 weight based on what you see here? Also especially where this next oil change will be driven through what remains of winter (do I want to keep the lower weight for that?).


Based on the 5W-30 shearing to a 20 weight in the UOA, I would feel comfortable using M1 0W-40 or Rotella T6 year round in a turbo engine.

 

[A_Harman]

Mix in a couple of quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40. The resulting blend will still be a 30-weight.

 

[gomes512]

Thanks for the clarification.

7,500 total miles so far with one UOA. Honestly, not much is seen here yet. Only way to get an idea of what is happening is by trying to keep the variables similar, getting more UOA's and observing any trends. You'll need more data in order to determine if anything needs to be changed at this point.

I remember the first thing my wife asked when she saw the WRX's at the lot after we drove off the lot with our new Impreza. Why didn't we get one of those instead? I'll have to keep that in mind next time we purchase another vehicle haha.

 

[Julch]

Alright I'll submit my 15k UOA once I do that change in 4k more miles and we can see where it stands.

Thanks for the help guys!

Look forward to coming back with the newest UOA in a little bit.

 

[ltslimjim]

I'd be curious to see Redline's 5w-30 in here.

While M1 0w-40, and other HDEOs like Rotellia's T6/T5 could do the job with regards to HT/HS you do have a considerably light 5w-30 in there now. I don't see the need to swap to a HDEO to achieve the viscosity desired, even though T6 is probably the best you value you could find for this or even T5 arguably if you don't want as thick. However, the cold start performance isn't as good as M1 0w-40 or the suggested Redline 5w30; which I'd say are more important in a newer engine to prevent as much wear in the first place in the winter here.

Therefore, skip the HDEOs early in this engine's life. Just my

.

Hey, it's a new engine give 'er the goods. I'd really be curious to see how M1 0w-40 or Red Line's 5w-30 (with 3.7 HT/HS ) would hold up at 7,500 mile OCIs (while still under warranty ofc?).

Not sure how much of a stickler Subaru is on the oil's specs, but the reality is they'd have to prove you didn't use some approved oil or grade.

CLARITY: Was this OCI 4,500 miles or 7,500 miles? *The miles on unit say 7,500 total. Or should it be at 10.5k already?

 

[Julch]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
CLARITY: Was this OCI 4,500 miles or 7,500 miles? *The miles on unit say 7,500 total. Or should it be at 10.5k already?


This particular OCI was 4,500 (7,500 total on the car - did the first change at 3,000 as Subaru recommends. It is 3k, 7.5k, then every 7.5k thereafter).

Hmm...I wouldn't be opposed to trying Redline's 5w-30 on the next change if you guys think it may be a little heavier and better for the engine?

 

[ltslimjim]

^It was just a 'here is an option you may like to try' but it is more expensive. If M1 0w-40 is less expensive go with that. Whatever is the better buy unless you just want to try one or the other. Can't go wrong, IMO.

Both have good cold properties and good operating temp protection. Flip a coin?

Not sure if this car is under warranty and what they require. Red Line may have a bit more zinc/phosphorus than is ideal for emissions protection (since that is part of the lower zinc/phosphorus in oils these days to appease government requirements to cover emissions equipment if premature failure), depends on what the vehicle warranty requires in this area in terms of meeting oil specs or they just want a certain grade. OR if you even care about the warranty 'requirements'.

EDIT: This is ofc if you were wanting to go to a higher operating film and/or viscosity. I don't know off hand the HT/HS of M1 0w-40 but it is on par if I'd guess with the Red Line 5w-30 (which is basically like a a 40 in terms of it's HT/HS rating and film strength and it's thicker operating viscosity for a 30. Much like a High Mileage oil in a 30 grade. FWIW.

 

[steve20]

is RL rated SN?

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: steve20
is RL rated SN?


http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

Claims it meets not sure if officially.

 

[Lex94]

Use something more shear stable / non resource conserving like Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30.

 

[Turk]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Mix in a couple of quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40. The resulting blend will still be a 30-weight.


Gave it some thought... Given the shearing of a high quality oil, I would agree with A_Harman here and put in 2 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w40.

 

[bluesubie]

Red Line does not carry any certifications if that is a concern. I would definitelty be mixing in a couple of quarts of PU 5W-40 (or running straight xW-40).

-Dennis