Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
I got new plugs in my '14 FXT while it was in at the dealer for the LSPI recall at 40kmiles...the shop called me and said they looked "OK" but recommended a replacement anyway, when they said it would just be at part cost since they were already in there I jumped on it. Think they charged me $80-100, which sounded about like what a dealer would charge for 4 modern plugs...would guess they would be more like $40 or maybe even less if I tracked the plugs down myself.
One of the plugs that came out then had cracked insulation, but not nearly as bad as the one shown in the pic above. I read at the time that insulation damage could be a sign of LSPI occurrence...lots of people in that recall also had severe electrode damage to their plugs that was also considered likely to be related to LSPI events. I asked for the plugs to be kept and they looked kinda crummy to me, I really didn't know how to judge them for functionality but I was glad new ones were put in then. I had those plugs replaced at 100kmiles to stay on the recommended 60kmile maintenance timeline.
Is it just a trick of the camera, or is the one with the cracked insulator also much dirtier on the business end than the other plugs?
How tough was the job of replacing them? I was reading up on this as a do it yourself job for the FXT and one source recommended to loosen the boxer engine from its mounts and tilt it a bit to make one or two of the plugs more accessible...that was the point where I decided to stick to changing oil and filters, trying to clean my intake valves (which I have made a mess of more than once), and upgrading easy things like the rear sway bar.
I had the same check done, obviously, but all was well - no change of plugs required.
It sounds almost like they did the same thing I did, damaging the insulation, but talked you into paying for new plugs, whereas they needed to be replaced due to the damage anyway!
I had one LSPI more than a year AFTER this check and ECM update. I was getting onto a highway onramp and floored it and heard KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK... and then it felt as if it lost all power. Luckily the road was clear. I was in no position to pull over, so I just gently accelerated, which it did just fine. No other issues since then! I was on the factory tune then, btw.
I'll check the business end of the broken plug. You'll notice that it's facing the opposite direction of how I was holding it for the initial picture of the electrodes.bo
Job complication: this job sucked compared to my previous STI, '97 Legacy GT and was obviously WAY harder than any inline-4! I think a 1/4" drive ratchet with EXACTLY the right length extension might have helped for the forward two plugs; however, they weren't very hard compared to the rear plugs. I should also have jacked the engine up from the oil pan to give me a little room. As it was I could barely get the driver's-rear coil pack off. I was actually so mad about that plug that I forgot to add a dab of dielectric grease to only that plug.
-----I'm expecting the change for the FB25 to be little easier. It looks as if there's just a fraction of a bit more clearance than the FA20DIT. I'll let you guys know.
My new endlinks just came in, so I'll be changing the RSB on the FXT this weekend. That is, if I can get a good enough grip with some vice grips to get the top nut off!!! Stupid hex stud strips way too easily. I was lucky to do this job on my Legacy soon after it came up from North Carolina, where I bought it used. Everything was pristine - no rust