I run 10w-30 year around here in North Carolina where we seldom get temp below 20. My manual on the 97 Honda accord we just purchased says 10w-30 down to 20 and 5w-30 down to below 0. Since we do get the occasional day at 5-15 degrees seems 5-30 is right for our area in the winter if you believe Honda.
10W-xx "risky at temps down to 0 deg F"????
- Thread starter novadude
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IT WAS A RECORD BLIZZARD 1977-78 WINTER...DATE LINE CLEVELAND OHIO USA...FLASH
For what it's worth, Last year I ran 10w-30 in all my families vehicles. Including the two that were up with my at school.
My ice racer, with 10w-30 in it, saw -20F starts.
I will never do it again as my oil pressure gauge was at the second notch from the top.
My ice racer, with 10w-30 in it, saw -20F starts.
I will never do it again as my oil pressure gauge was at the second notch from the top.
If you want to stick to 10W30 why not use M1 10W30 or if trying to save soem bucks, get teh new Mobil GF-4 10W30
"It's probably risky to recommend...10W-XX oils below or down to 0 degrees F. It's not clear that the SAE classification protects for these grades down to these temperatures."
Chevron lists a safe (not absolute) low temp limit for 10w-30 and 10w-40 of 0 degrees F.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/faq.shtm
Pennzoil's dino spec sheet for these same weights lists a Borderline Pumping Temp (an absolute low temp limit) of -22F. While 5w-30 would be preferred anytime below the freeze point, I would suspect, 10w looks perfectly acceptable down to 0F.
Chevron lists a safe (not absolute) low temp limit for 10w-30 and 10w-40 of 0 degrees F.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/faq.shtm
Pennzoil's dino spec sheet for these same weights lists a Borderline Pumping Temp (an absolute low temp limit) of -22F. While 5w-30 would be preferred anytime below the freeze point, I would suspect, 10w looks perfectly acceptable down to 0F.
From http://www.rotella.com/products/ -> Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic I quote:
"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SECTION 2 PRODUCT/INGREDIENTS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAS# CONCENTRATION INGREDIENTS
Synthetic Motor Oil
Mixture 90 - 98.99 %volume Highly refined petroleum oils
Mixture 1 - 4.99 %volume Proprietary additives
Proprietary 1 - 4.99 %volume Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate
"
There you go. At least 90% "Highly refined petroleum oils". To me, that says Group III, although technically you could argue it means Group II. No way is it Group IV or V, which only a pathological liar would describe as "Highly refined petroleum oils".
I cannot answer your question regarding their Canadian-market 0W40. The web site offers me no information to use for that purpose.
I think you misinterpret what is being said. I think the person quoted from GM is complaining about the new API guide.quote:
Originally posted by novadude:
Does anyone want to comment on this statement?
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article000335905.cfm?x=b11,0,w
I have been using 10W-30 in PA for many years, and I have seen many cold starts in the 0 deg to 10 deg F range. Have I been doing it wrong all these years?
Personally, I think this comment is bunk. Below 0 deg F, I'd start to worry, but I wonder why they say it is "risky" down to 0 deg F???
While acknowledging that the Guide was better than previous versions, "all the symbols still made it confusing," Mike McMillan of General Motors told Lube Report. McMillan chairs ILSAC, the committee representing U.S. and Japanese automobile manufacturers on engine oil issues, and he went on to summarize opinions on the document from other ILSAC members, who declined to be identified.
For example, he said, the Guide makes some technical claims which are of concern. "It's probably risky to recommend … 10W-XX oils below or down to 0 degrees F. It's not clear that the SAE classification protects for these grades down to these temperatures.
"Further, the Guide is incorrect in saying that SB oils are good for engines built before 1964," he pointed out. "Vehicles with hydraulic valve lifters, which were available even in the 1930s, require detergent oils, not SB oils. It was noted that the API website shows a young family in front of a 1955 Chevrolet with the hood up and a bottle of engine oil. [We] certainly hope that it is not a bottle of SB oil.
"On the second page," McMillan continued, "[the Guide] states that SM oils are 'for all automotive engines currently in use.' This is only true for General Motors if the SM oil also happens to be ILSAC GF-4 and carries the Starburst, and is the right viscosity grade. To say SM is good in all automotive engines is misleading at best."
Looking at the guide I would agree. What moron would use the 15W40 CI-4 service grade for an example of how to read the donut, and then not put it in the temperature chart?
The SAE clearly and unambiguously defines the 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w, 20w, 25w grades. And they modified the J300 Chart several years ago specifically to insure if the engine would crank, the oil will flow, i.e., the MRV viscosity is rated at a 5C degree colder temperature than the CCS viscosity.
About the only good advice I see on their new chart is this line:
"Note that vehicle requirements may vary. Follow your vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations on SAE oil viscosity grade."
In a perfect world, that statement would be suffixed with, "if you don't have a clue about selecting oil".
I moved to northern Minnesota from Vriginia in 1987. At that time I had a 1980 Audi 4000 and I found out quickly that winterizing in Virginia was not going to cut it in Minnesota winter weather.
That is when I get interested in synthtetic oils and came across Amsoil. The Audi always did just great in super subzero temperatures with either 10-40 Amsoil or 15-50 Mobil 1 (sometimes with it plugged in and sometimes not).
After that car, 1986 Cadillac Sedan Deville, did fine with Amsoil 10-30 or Mobil 1 10-30.
Never have had any problems over the years using what the specific weight oil the manufacturer recommends for the car.
Good Day,
Steven
That is when I get interested in synthtetic oils and came across Amsoil. The Audi always did just great in super subzero temperatures with either 10-40 Amsoil or 15-50 Mobil 1 (sometimes with it plugged in and sometimes not).
After that car, 1986 Cadillac Sedan Deville, did fine with Amsoil 10-30 or Mobil 1 10-30.
Never have had any problems over the years using what the specific weight oil the manufacturer recommends for the car.
Good Day,
Steven
I used 10w-30 Pennzoil for five years of cold Sault St. Marie MI. winter start ups. My father still drives the car on 10w-30 year round in Midland, MI. This car has over 200K miles on it with no engine related problems. Were there some days a 5w or 0w would have been better, sure, but I would hazard a guess that there are an awful lot of cars in the upper midwest than ran on 10w-30 year round for years, and still are. I personally have switched to 5w-30 for winter, but I got away with 10w for years.
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