10W-30 a better choice then 5W-30

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$3.00 USD/liter plus shipping from Vancouver to Sydney.
50/50 10W30 CJ-4 and SAE10W on the Bolivian calculator:

40C 51
100C 8.5
HTHS 2.9

If the mono-grade 10W passes 5W, we will have to mix in a dram of SAE50.
You might end up with a slightly thicker 10W20, HTHS >3.0 if that's OK?
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
I still dream that one day some brave oil company will offer the general public a 10W-20 oil...


with a 2.9HTHS, I'd buy it tomorrow.


So, you're running either of Redline's 20-grades, then? Or do you mean you're going to start tomorrow? :p
 
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
$3.00 USD/liter plus shipping from Vancouver to Sydney.
50/50 10W30 CJ-4 and SAE10W on the Bolivian calculator:

40C 51
100C 8.5
HTHS 2.9

If the mono-grade 10W passes 5W, we will have to mix in a dram of SAE50.
You might end up with a slightly thicker 10W20, HTHS >3.0 if that's OK?



Yes, viscometrically that would work. However I've always felt that you could really go to town on properly formulating a 10W-20 (or even 7.5W-25!) engine oil in a logical, 'less-is-more' kind of way. If we could just for one second get away from way we've always done things and think what people and engines and the planet might need (rather than what the OEMs want) it's IMO a project that's crying out to be done by someone.
 
Funny thing about those here calling for something like a 10W20 or 15W25, is that none of you called RLI to order the SAE20 I had them create for my fleet a few years ago. I believe it would easily have passed the 10W or 15W pumpability requirements, and it was a nice, 'thick,' stable 20-grade with solid dynamic viscosity, too.

Just what you're asking for. Where were you then, when I told this board it was in production?

(This is a rhetorical commentary, of course.)
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil
So what is the verdict 10w30 or 5w30 assuming all things being equal ?


The smallest spread between the winter and hot rating, but such that the winter rating is sufficient for the actual winter. That said, I chose a PAO 0w30 because 10w30 isn't readily available, so I prefer the PAO over the 5w30 offerings. Lowzer Noack, good thermal and oxidation resistance, not overly loaded with VII etc...
 
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
Funny thing about those here calling for something like a 10W20 or 15W25, is that none of you called RLI to order the SAE20 I had them create for my fleet a few years ago. I believe it would easily have passed the 10W or 15W pumpability requirements, and it was a nice, 'thick,' stable 20-grade with solid dynamic viscosity, too.

Just what you're asking for. Where were you then, when I told this board it was in production?

(This is a rhetorical commentary, of course.)


I wasn't here, I suppose, but even then it's on the wrong continent.

Still, got some information about that oil? I believe the now passed away (burned at the stake and hung until his feet stopped kicking) Joe90_Guy agreed with you that a 10w20 is all that's really needed for most. I'm sure his son could confirm.
 
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: SonofJoe
I still dream that one day some brave oil company will offer the general public a 10W-20 oil...


with a 2.9HTHS, I'd buy it tomorrow.


So, you're running either of Redline's 20-grades, then? Or do you mean you're going to start tomorrow? :p


if they weren't 5 times more expensive than what I use (more PAO, less Ester, and 3.5 HTHS) I would.
 
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Probably because a 10w30 usually has a lower NOACK rating compared to 5w30 of the same brand, along with fewer Viscosity improvers. Some full synthetic 10w30's have no need of any viscosity improvers. All of that a plus in some folk's books.


Would you say that's a minus in your book?
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Probably because a 10w30 usually has a lower NOACK rating compared to 5w30 of the same brand, along with fewer Viscosity improvers. Some full synthetic 10w30's have no need of any viscosity improvers. All of that a plus in some folk's books.


Would you say that's a minus in your book?


I thought lots of VIIs were beneficial for short tripper and cold starts, mainly?

I've always liked the [spec/data sheet] #s syn 10w30s gave. And now my VW uses 0w40 - widening the gap both directions.
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Probably because a 10w30 usually has a lower NOACK rating compared to 5w30 of the same brand, along with fewer Viscosity improvers. Some full synthetic 10w30's have no need of any viscosity improvers. All of that a plus in some folk's books.


Would you say that's a minus in your book?


I thought lots of VIIs were beneficial for short tripper and cold starts, mainly?

I've always liked the [spec/data sheet] #s syn 10w30s gave. And now my VW uses 0w40 - widening the gap both directions.



VII polymers are both a blessing and a curse.

In the 50's, when all you had was relatively low VI solvent extracted base oils, VII's were the thing that allowed you to have the same grade of oil in both the winter and summer. Back then engines were rudimentary and the only anti-wear additive was ZDDP so you definitely needed oil to be thick at operating temperature to avoid wear. Given that oils were changed after a few thousand miles, the downsides of using VII polymer (primarily deposits and higher Noack) could sort of be overlooked.

Fast forward to 2016 and things are very different. Base oils are far better than they used to be. In terms of use in engine oils, Group I's are already dead and buried in the US. Group II/II+ is the norm and this is supplemented with Group III, PAO & Esters. All these have better VI and massively better oxidative stability. Additives have also evolved to deal with the deposit problems caused by VII.

However the outcome of all of this is a bit perverse. We use better base oils and higher treat rates of better additives yet we still use VII in much the same way and at the same treat rates as we did back in the old days. 10W30, the old standard US grade morphed into 5W30, 5W20 and 0W20. You can just as easily get 5W40 and heavier. The country didn't really get colder. It's more the case that low temperature performance became a tool for OEMs to get FE/emissions credits. Interestly, the lower the X-rating, the wider the cross-grade, the more VII you need and the more DI (especially ashless dispersant) to need to counter the extra VII. The final kicker is the fact that all of the above drives up Noack which is increasing a problem for 2016 cars; especially GDI's.

The way I see it, if you narrow the cross-grade you take out VII, that means you need less DI which overall gives you a cheaper and lower Noack oil...something like a 10W20..

Hope that helps.
 
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