10k on the Nishiki Manitoba

[wander2039]

Don't know maybe it's not alot of mileage for a bike but the most I've put on one! Bought it in 2018 from ***** for $400 after I killed a Trek that had only 4k on it. I commute on this bike daily rain and shine around 13 miles. I've did 3 long rides on it, 2 were over 400 miles and a week long. Is 10k on a bikie equivalent to 100k on a car? Wife has told me to get a better bike but unless I get a belt drive I don't know how I could get any better.

3 sets of tires, the Schwable Marathons on there have 6k on it.
5 sets of brake pads, typically last 2k.
4 chains, every 3k.
One brake cable
Replace the crankset around 5k (rivet came loose) and bottom bracket but it didn't need it.
3 sets of pedals

 

[Creekside]

I don't even want to ride a mile. Congratulations to say the least.

 

[MRC01]

Congrats! You've broken in your bike. It should serve you well for many more miles. I haven't heard of Nishiki since the 1980s when the bike shop where I worked used to sell them.
You're getting a lot of mileage on those tires. About average on the chain and brake bads. Cranksets and pedals usually last longer than that.

I put over 20,000 miles on my '99 Trek 2200, it was still running like new when I gave it to a friend of mine. The only thing I had replaced were chains, cassettes, tires & brake pads. Everything else still original, though of course I serviced all the bearings regularly and I had to rebuild the wheels once; those old Rolf wheels were notorious for spoke nipples gradually working loose.

 

[wander2039]

Congrats! You've broken in your bike. It should serve you well for many more miles. I haven't heard of Nishiki since the 1980s when the bike shop where I worked used to sell them.
You're getting a lot of mileage on those tires. About average on the chain and brake bads. Cranksets and pedals usually last longer than that.

I put over 20,000 miles on my '99 Trek 2200, it was still running like new when I gave it to a friend of mine. The only thing I had replaced were chains, cassettes, tires & brake pads. Everything else still original, though of course I serviced all the bearings regularly and I had to rebuild the wheels once; those old Rolf wheels were notorious for spoke nipples gradually working loose.

I might take the corners a bit fast sometimes and smack the pedals on the ground. I do repack the bearings every year which probably just needs every couple years. Plan on working here another 10 years don't know if I'll ride it out to 35k or not, the frame might give up.

 

[tcp71]

My commuter is a 2007 Giant Trans-X. Not sure of the mileage, but it's early life was spent in the mountains of western Canada and including a trip to Moab around the 5 year mark. Been my commuter for the last 8 years or so. Current commute is 24 miles round trip that I try to ride 3 days per week. Parts are as required. Chains lasting more than brake pads is new to me. I stretch the crap out of them long before pads need replacing.

 

[MRC01]

... Chains lasting more than brake pads is new to me. I stretch the crap out of them long before pads need replacing.

Same here, but I'm not a commuter. My road rides are rural with low traffic and few stops or lights, so I hardly touch the brakes. Wearing out brake pads faster is more normal for other people's bikes that I have serviced.

 

[wander2039]

My commuter is a 2007 Giant Trans-X. Not sure of the mileage, but it's early life was spent in the mountains of western Canada and including a trip to Moab around the 5 year mark. Been my commuter for the last 8 years or so. Current commute is 24 miles round trip that I try to ride 3 days per week. Parts are as required. Chains lasting more than brake pads is new to me. I stretch the crap out of them long before pads need replacing.

I could be wrong on the mileage for the brake pads since I thought I missed noting a mileage. I replaced the pads last at 9400 and before that 5118 and they were completely gone. So maybe that's right. I run the Kool Stop dual compound pads. There is alot of stop and go, hills and not to mention weight. Below is when I rode the Katy and it's been loaded that like several times.

I run KMC 7 speed chains and got the comment on the last ride I must not care about weight.. guess it's a heavy duty chain. Last chain was at 7985.. I change when it starts shifting wonky. Hard to describe but I know when its time. I don't use one of those fancy stretch gauges or I'd be changing every 1k. Yes I could be wearing out the crankset front and back prematurely but in my case something else takes those out first. The freewheel on this wheel lost the bearing or something internal and had to be changed. The factory wheel had a cassette but I bent the axle last year.

 

[MRC01]

... I run KMC 7 speed chains and got the comment on the last ride I must not care about weight.. guess it's a heavy duty chain. Last chain was at 7985.. I change when it starts shifting wonky. Hard to describe but I know when its time. I don't use one of those fancy stretch gauges or I'd be changing every 1k. ...

You don't need a fancy gauge. Just measure across the top of the chain with a ruler. A new chain's rivets/pivots will line up perfectly with the inch marks. Replace the chain when total stretch across the top span (about 10 to 12 inches) is about 1/16". When measuring, ensure to push on the pedal to put some force on the chain.

If you do it sooner, you're wasting your money. If you do it later, you're wearing out the chainrings & cassette.