I am running RL 5w-30 along with a Eao in my 06 4.0 tacoma to around 10k. No issues and at 8k a UOA that I had done looked very good. It was the mental part of going longer that was so hard to get on board with. I now see the error of my ways!
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- Thread starter ericthepig
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RTS ..D1
A few customers doing one year with 12k+/- on SSO ..HDD
I'm using HDD now and won't change it until next May.
Experimental oils usually get 5k testing.
I'm using HDD now and won't change it until next May.
Experimental oils usually get 5k testing.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well with a huge sump I suppose I could see that...but on an avg 10yr old 100k SUV, I just don't see how any synthetic (much less dino!)Wal-mart shelf oil can last that long...if I tried that, my vehicle would be 4qts low on a 5qt pan
Why wouldn't you top it off regularly? Top-off also helps extend the life of the oil change
If I did 15k miles without topping off every ~5k, I'd have almost no oil left either. But I do, and it's part of what enables me to run 15k+ oil change intervals with total confidence.
Well with a huge sump I suppose I could see that...but on an avg 10yr old 100k SUV, I just don't see how any synthetic (much less dino!)Wal-mart shelf oil can last that long...if I tried that, my vehicle would be 4qts low on a 5qt pan
Why wouldn't you top it off regularly? Top-off also helps extend the life of the oil change
If I did 15k miles without topping off every ~5k, I'd have almost no oil left either. But I do, and it's part of what enables me to run 15k+ oil change intervals with total confidence.
"Well with a huge sump I suppose I could see that...but on an avg 10yr old 100k SUV, I just don't see how any synthetic (much less dino!)Wal-mart shelf oil can last that long...if I tried that, my vehicle would be 4qts low on a 5qt pan [/quote]
This seems like evidence against changing oil all the time, does it not??? If I change every 20K and have a 15 year old tow vehicle that burns no oil, then you change every 3 K and have an oil burner after 100K and 10 years........
Not trying to start and argument, just never really seen a reason to change oil more often than the factory recommendation.
(I would recommend very regular with oil changes on the known "sludger" motors)
[/quote]This seems like evidence against changing oil all the time, does it not??? If I change every 20K and have a 15 year old tow vehicle that burns no oil, then you change every 3 K and have an oil burner after 100K and 10 years........
Not trying to start and argument, just never really seen a reason to change oil more often than the factory recommendation.
(I would recommend very regular with oil changes on the known "sludger" motors)
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Agreed, I have to add roughly .5 qt every 5k, and the Grand Prix only has about 40K on it. Better than the old 96 monte carlo I put out to pasture in december, which went about half a quart every 2k, which im told is still good.
I'm passing thru 10k on M1 0w20 in my '06 Mazda 6 - pretty much as I write this. Bought this car last summer. Put the M1 in the first wkend of the school year (three kids in elementary school). Ideally, I'd like to just drop a new fill in that first wkend of each school year. But that would mean taking this oil thru a hot summer, and maybe ending up at 14k or so. And I haven't added a drop of oil in the last 10k (still at the full mark). If I have the nerve to take it there (to one year), I could UOA it and I would have proof of concept (or lack thereof).
One OCI per year has always seemed the essence of efficiency to me, but pushing a 15k OCI in this gem of a car - man, I don't know.
One OCI per year has always seemed the essence of efficiency to me, but pushing a 15k OCI in this gem of a car - man, I don't know.
Went 9.7K (six months) on PP 5w20 and MC filter on our 04 Ford Escape 3.0L with 78k. Probably 80% highway. If I felt like a UOA probably could of went 12-15k. When warmed up the oil on the dipstick didn't look any darker than when it had 1k on it. No consumption.
Went one year (only 7.5k though) on PP 5w20 and PureOne filter on the Ranger last year has 32k now. Working out to be the same length and time on this fill. No consumption. Duratecs are easy on oil and every UOA I've seen seems to back it up.
Went one year (only 7.5k though) on PP 5w20 and PureOne filter on the Ranger last year has 32k now. Working out to be the same length and time on this fill. No consumption. Duratecs are easy on oil and every UOA I've seen seems to back it up.
I've got 5qts of PP 5w20 - left from a sale a year ago (was using PP at that time in my Sienna) - not sure what to do with them. I don't know much about PP's long OCI capabilities. Feel pretty comfortable with M1 - so was planning to stick with M1 0w20 in the Mazda.
Anyone know the general BITOG feel on M1 0w20 vs PP 5w20 on a max 15k OCI ?
Anyone know the general BITOG feel on M1 0w20 vs PP 5w20 on a max 15k OCI ?
I would bet money that if M1 can do it PP can do it.
Then again I shop sales and run dino.
Then again I shop sales and run dino.
i did for years on childrens when they were in college, now I just don't put that many miles on in a year so it turns into a yearly change of maybe 7000-10,000 miles
I think 20K miles *might* be possible on Syn if you did 100% highway miles.
I am surprised at how many people need to top off after 3K to 5K miles. My cars don't use any oil in the 10k oci.
I run 10K on PP, typically takes about a year. UOA's have shown it (whether predominantly city or highway miles) to be a good choice. I could probably go longer, but it's nice and easy to remember to change the oil every 10K.
Clark
Clark
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I think 20K miles *might* be possible on Syn if you did 100% highway miles.
In most states in the US except Death Valley in the summer.
I think 20K miles *might* be possible on Syn if you did 100% highway miles.
In most states in the US except Death Valley in the summer.
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