10,255 miles on amsoil 15/40 = copper @364ppm

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Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
There is a lot to agree on in that article, but still many open questions. As I have stated many times and has he so very clearly states, a simple spectrographic UOA doesn't tell us what we need to know.
Quote:
Copper from wear debris will rarely produce concentrations greater than 50 ppm....
If you said this, then I missed it. My apologies.
 
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Location
Indiana
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
The "chemistry thing" also happens readily with 15w-40 products, and has been shown to happen with other brands as well such as RL, RP and I've even seen it with TDT/Delvac 1.
Wouldn't it be better to use an oil that shows less of a "chemistry thing" in your particular application?
Maybe the OP can try a different oil and then he can get a UOA and compare the COPPER NUMBERS against his last UOA with Amsoil 15/40.
 
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Location
Colorado springs CO, USA
Originally Posted By: Hermann
One of this board's main forums is the UOA forum. Having just posted a UOA about 10 days ago, the memory of not being to easily make a attachment, and ultimatly having to type it in,(a pain in it own right) it was probably the last that I will post. Surely there is a way this can be improved upon. It would surely spur me on to do more UOA's.
+1
 

JD4440

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Orlinda, TN
Originally Posted By: Bayman
Maybe the OP can try a different oil and then he can get a UOA and compare the COPPER NUMBERS against his last UOA with Amsoil 15/40.
Not sure where I left off on this as it's been a while since I've been here seems like. I did in fact switch to Mobil Delvac and the analysis was good. I'm getting a little concerned now as It's been 9k miles and the OLM hasn't pinged me to change the oil yet.
 

JD4440

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Orlinda, TN
Checked the oil today and it's not even really black. Guess these things really are easy on oil if you don't drag race or sled pull. Neither of those on this change due to me building my house.
 

JD4440

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Orlinda, TN
Any idea what % of oil life the DIC post to change the oil ? I scanned mine today with my V2 and it says 25.5% oil life at 10,600 miles? Kinda figure I'll go ahead and change/ sample it. just to be safe seeing's how I have $6 a gal in the oil compared to how much this engine cost.
 

dnewton3

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Indianapolis, IN
I am not sure, because I don't have DIC controls, but I recall seeing a notice on mine at 10%. But, with the GM OLM, is there both a warning and a "do it now" post? My Fusion has a "warning" at 10% ("change oil soon") and then also a do-it-now-dummy notice at 1% ("change oil now"). With you OLM at 25% at 10.6k miles, I'd say that's pretty impressive. That would reasonably indicate that 14k miles is doable in your current operational pattern. Do you have any way to sample without changing oil? Either a Fumoto valve or a hand tube-pump? Understandably, at some point, it's just cheaper to OCI than to worry about it. But with your OLM at 25% left, I would think you're safe.
 
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JD4440

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I do have a fumoto valve. I guess if I 'could' get 3k -3500k more out of this oil sampling w/o an OCI would be the ticket.
 

dnewton3

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Well - it's pretty cheap to OCI a Dmax. But at some point, we toss aside the worry of the money on a UOA, because we're after the facts and data, right? I often am amused at guys that are willing to OCI with synthetics at OEM intervals, and act as if money is no object, but then they scoff at UOAs that show them they can go MUCH further. (I'm not picking on you personally; it's an observation of some habits some folks get into). As you know from over at DP, some folks will dump syns at 5-7k miles because it's "cheap insurance", but then ignore the UOA data they pay for ... Go figure .... I mean you no personal offense; I'm poking at the masses here. Why not use the Fumoto, get the UOA, and see how accurate the OLM really is? Take a "live" sample with the engine warmed up and running; it's easy with the Fumoto. You won't loose enough volume that a top off would be necessary. Here's how I do it: 1) with a cold engine, clean off road dirt from valve 2) start engine and drive around until warm 3) park and leave running 4) grab tools and bottle 5) one last cursory wipe of valve 6) use pliers to remove spring (if you have one) and then open valve for collection 7) close valve
 
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JD4440

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Orlinda, TN
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Well - it's pretty cheap to OCI a Dmax. But at some point, we toss aside the worry of the money on a UOA, because we're after the facts and data, right? I often am amused at guys that are willing to OCI with synthetics at OEM intervals, and act as if money is no object, but then they scoff at UOAs that show them they can go MUCH further. (I'm not picking on you personally; it's an observation of some habits some folks get into). As you know from over at DP, some folks will dump syns at 5-7k miles because it's "cheap insurance", but then ignore the UOA data they pay for ... Go figure .... I mean you no personal offense; I'm poking at the masses here. Why not use the Fumoto, get the UOA, and see how accurate the OLM really is? Take a "live" sample with the engine warmed up and running; it's easy with the Fumoto. You won't loose enough volume that a top off would be necessary. Here's how I do it: 1) with a cold engine, clean off road dirt from valve 2) start engine and drive around until warm 3) park and leave running 4) grab tools and bottle 5) one last cursory wipe of valve 6) use pliers to remove spring (if you have one) and then open valve for collection 7) close valve
No personal offense taken, I'm in this to learn so I can pass on my findings to others. The way you described is how I get my samples I just usually do it when it prompts the change. The samples always indicate "suitable for continued use". Hopefully Blackstone provides me with some useful information this time, before the truck prompts me to change it.
 

dnewton3

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Very intersting. Possible that you could see 13k or more on the OLM OCI? I'm staying tuned in to see the OLM final number, and then the UOA results!
 
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