10,000 mile VS 20,000 mile engine oil

FMC

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We have these extended protection oils, Castrol Edge 10,000 miles VS Castrol Edge Extended Performance 20,000 Miles.

Mobil 1 10,000 VS Mobil 1 Extended Performance 20,000

What do they do to make the oil extended performance ? Is it the base stock or extra additives ?

If i'm doing 5,000 mile changes is there any advantage to using the Extended 20K version ?


Thanks
 
You are being smart and keeping your intervals decent, 5-6k so there is really no need to switch to an extended performance oil.

With that being said some newer options on the market such as Quakerstate Ultimate Protection 20,000 mile has such a minimal price difference that unless you prefer to run a high mileage oil why the hell not run the Ultimate Protection. I believe Mobil 1 is the only one who offers a High Mileage extended performance oil at the moment, someone can correct me if I am wrong on that.
 
There just doesn’t seem to be any consensus as to what makes these name brand oils a 20,000 mile oil. At first I think we all assumed it was the base stocks. Then there was the additive folks. Then there are the folks who believe there really isn’t a measurable distance between a 10,000 mile oil and a 20,000 mile oil (that both oils under ideal conditions can handle the job equally).

I used to think it was the base stocks and the linear TBN that drops very slowly through the interval. Now I don’t know anymore because Mobil1 EP dropped their PAO base stocks down substantially, yet they still advertise it as a 20,000 mile oil. Honestly I don’t think we’ll ever know - because there are no certifications or industry license’s that required of a 20,000 mile oil, right?
 
Reviewing the MSDS of two Mobil products, the EP version of M-1 and the standard version of M-1 in viscosity grade 10W-30 shows that the EP lists a 5-10% component of GTL in the reported formulation.

We know that the MSDS does not show everything but this is one glaring difference that is noted.

For the OP, if you're changing your oil at reasonable intervals then it makes no difference which you use and the logical choice would be the least expensive version.
 
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I've found between the two M1 oils that the M1 WP can be found on sale or when rebates are run to be the same or cheaper to buy than original M1...I don't know why that would be but that made the M1 EP my choice of the two...
 
I like the idea of longer oci oil, but I would maybe still change the oil filter at 5k and use as a good reason for undercarriage inspection to make sure no leaks,etc. Long duration oil still needs to be topped out and it needs good driving habits to help like highway miles, secure air filter, and so on. If for example I was using Mobil 1 5w30 and I was going into winter weather I might consider using the EP version as getting underneath it might not be applicable or you know that it might not get up to working temperature as easily and want a bit of margin for error. From a performance standpoint I think you get a slightly better oil.
 
Both are great for my 5k intervals in my Toyotas and 3750 mile intervals in the Kia.

Advantage is for you to decide. Is there an advantage to mcd's over bk wendys hardees 5guys wayback steak&shake whataburger...?
I believe in a modern GDI engine driven in most suburban , mixed driving conditions there is zero advantage to using a 20K oil ... Why ? Because the oil is toast with soot and fuel dilution by 5K miles so why pay for and use 20K mile rated oil ?
 
I believe in a modern GDI engine driven in most suburban , mixed driving conditions there is zero advantage to using a 20K oil ... Why ? Because the oil is toast with soot and fuel dilution by 5K miles so why pay for and use 20K mile rated oil ?
I tend to agree - normal driving mostly around town in a GDI engine, use something cheaper and just chnage it more often. The oil may have plenty of TBD but the fuel contamination drives that question "why?". These long service oils in a port injected car driven on a long highway commute day after day/high annual mileage...sure.
 
M1 EP is $2.50 more for 5 quarts. You get $10 rebate instead of $5 - or did last year. However I can't buy enough on rebate so not sure if I should switch back and fourth - EP vs regular. Probably wouldn't matter but I have't in the past. I guess there rebate works. Ha ha
 
Regarding your question about advantages of EP formulas, sometimes EP oils are overkill, sometimes they are really helpful. It really depends on the vehicle/application, the usage, the service interval, the condition of the engine, and to a lesser degree the ambient conditions. The only way to tell for sure if an EP oil is helpful to your circumstances is to do oil analysis after running whatever "regular" stuff you like, and do another analysis after running an EP oil. Keep in mind this would provide a very small data set but still should help to answer your question. Also keep in mind that the cost of 2 analyses could go toward shorter oil change services, so there's that.
 
We have these extended protection oils, Castrol Edge 10,000 miles VS Castrol Edge Extended Performance 20,000 Miles.

Mobil 1 10,000 VS Mobil 1 Extended Performance 20,000

What do they do to make the oil extended performance ? Is it the base stock or extra additives ?

If i'm doing 5,000 mile changes is there any advantage to using the Extended 20K version ?


Thanks
Probably additional detergents which keep by-products in suspension for a longer period of time.
 
I like the idea of longer oci oil, but I would maybe still change the oil filter at 5k and use as a good reason for undercarriage inspection to make sure no leaks,etc. Long duration oil still needs to be topped out and it needs good driving habits to help like highway miles, secure air filter, and so on. If for example I was using Mobil 1 5w30 and I was going into winter weather I might consider using the EP version as getting underneath it might not be applicable or you know that it might not get up to working temperature as easily and want a bit of margin for error. From a performance standpoint I think you get a slightly better oil.
Since you broached the topic? What is your opinion on doing 5k OCI consistantly. But running 20k rated Ultra synthetic filters like a Fram Ultra Synthetic? (I do this in winter since I do my OCI outdoors and because of the cold. I just quickly hit the fuji moto valve, drain, refill, and go. I usually change those specific filters every 10 to 15k. Otherwise OEM filters every 5k for me which I haven used in a year or two. Wish I had an oil pressure gage in my vehicle to determine if the finer micron synthetic filter is loading up from 5k to 15k.
 
I believe in a modern GDI engine driven in most suburban , mixed driving conditions there is zero advantage to using a 20K oil ... Why ? Because the oil is toast with soot and fuel dilution by 5K miles so why pay for and use 20K mile rated oil ?
But doesn't the evidence from multiple oil analyses of 15K+ mile OCIs (results shown on this forum with a search of the archives) reflect that fuel dilution and soot typically aren't an issue? Or am I missing something?
 
But doesn't the evidence from multiple oil analyses of 15K+ mile OCIs (results shown on this forum with a search of the archives) reflect that fuel dilution and soot typically aren't an issue? Or am I missing something?
We haven't seen widespread wear due to the extra fuel issues but I think the common thing that ends up happening is the owners end up dumping the oil anyways "b/c theirs x amount of fuel in it".
 
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