10,000 mile VS 20,000 mile engine oil

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Yes, I've cut the cord, don't watch any modern TV shows.
I focus on the detective serious from the 1970's and the many TV shows from the 1950, 1960's, 1970's, 1980's, of which are freely available on youtube. It's my way to escape the garbage on today's shows.

I also will never use any oil thinner than 30 weight oil. I don't agree with the changes in the automotive industry due to CAFE. I'm also not into long OCI's of modern oil life monitors / owners manuals. Just see the dirty, sludgy, lumpy, clumpy oil that comes out of your engine drain hole after a 10k OCI. The UOA will show low wear metals, but it won't measure how badly your oil control rings / piston rings are gummed up by that dirty oil. I prefer the maintenance recommendations of the 1990's (before CAFE), where 5W-30 oils were king, and where 4k-5k/6 month OCI max was the norm. The oil in my engines will never cause sludge/varnish as it won't be in the engine long enough for that to happen.
I agree with you 100% !

I do 4000 mile interval and still watch Columbo and Hawaii Five 0 the original
 
I've done plenty of 10K changes and never saw anything like this:
I think you've got the best strategy for a perfectly clean engine - The annual LiquiMoly Engine Flushes.

I did some reading on LiquiMoly engine flushes, they really do work immediately. As you already know, its so simple to add it and idle engine for 15 minutes, and then do the oil change. I think this is far more effective and also much cheaper than running an Ester based oil for 20,000 miles to get the same cleanliness.

I wanted to buy 10+ cans of LiquiMoly Engine Flush. Where would you recommend I buy to get the lowest price? Thanks.
 
On that car I never used any flush products...just M1 0W40.

FCP Euro for the LM products.
 
I'm not convinced that the expensive oils will provide any benefit in terms of lower engine wear.
What is expensive ? … We surely seem to have both (actually) expensive and cheap oil being all the rage here … but a one notch up EP for $3/jug more gets attacked all the time …
 
What is expensive ? … We surely seem to have both (actually) expensive and cheap oil being all the rage here … but a one notch up EP for $3/jug more gets attacked all the time …
Sorry, by expensive I meant HPL, Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1 ESP, etc.
The point I was attempting to make is that engine wear using "expensive" oil will be the same as using low priced oils like SuperTech.
 
Yes, I've cut the cord, don't watch any modern TV shows.
I focus on the detective serious from the 1970's and the many TV shows from the 1950, 1960's, 1970's, 1980's, of which are freely available on youtube. It's my way to escape the garbage on today's shows.

I also will never use any oil thinner than 30 weight oil. I don't agree with the changes in the automotive industry due to CAFE. I'm also not into long OCI's of modern oil life monitors / owners manuals. Just see the dirty, sludgy, lumpy, clumpy oil that comes out of your engine drain hole after a 10k OCI. The UOA will show low wear metals, but it won't measure how badly your oil control rings / piston rings are gummed up by that dirty oil. I prefer the maintenance recommendations of the 1990's (before CAFE), where 5W-30 oils were king, and where 4k-5k/6 month OCI max was the norm. The oil in my engines will never cause sludge/varnish as it won't be in the engine long enough for that to happen.
I think it's about politeness and wholesome family values, that have me watch the older shows too.
 
being a new Kia owner of a new, new Kia Soul, I was wondering why a 0w-20 full syn oil is spec'd for an anticipated 5-6k oci when conventional oil is marketed for 5k intervals...in my mind it is simply the requirement for 0w-20 for a miniscule fuel savings advantage vs regular 5w-20! if my vehicle survives the warranty period I might consider a longer oci with a 10k or 20k oci oil
 
As a Hyundai Santa Fe owner with 184k on the clock I would not go above 5k oci on any Hyundai or Kia. They have had engine problems not to long ago. Jmo. Enjoy your soul. They are cute cars
 
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Reviewing the MSDS of two Mobil products, the EP version of M-1 and the standard version of M-1 in viscosity grade 10W-30 shows that the EP lists a 5-10% component of GTL in the reported formulation.

We know that the MSDS does not show everything but this is one glaring difference that is noted.

For the OP, if you're changing your oil at reasonable intervals then it makes no difference which you use and the logical choice would be the least expensive version.
I drive 95% highway miles commuting to work. I use M1 ES and oil filter for 10k miles intervals. That should be plenty of protection and have done this for 20 years. What do you think?
 
have done this for 20 years. What do you think?
Well, it's hard to argue with success. There are many variables that will affect the longevity of a motor oil but in general the highway miles are your golden egg. Fuel economy, sump capacity, sump temperature, air filtration, oil filtration, etc., all play a role in determining when to change your oil.

It sounds like your combination, when matched with high quality lubricants, is a winning combination for you.
 
I bought some QSUD for 23$, the other day for my wife's car.
It's GDI, and I won't run it for 20k, probably only 4-5K.
But if some unforeseen event happens, where I can't hit that interval- at least it will buy me a bit more time.
I would not spend 28-32$ a jug for extended OC oil though, for a GDI engine
 
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I bought some QSUD for 23$, the other day for my wife's car.
It's GDI, and I won't run it for 20k, probably only 4-5K.
But if some unforeseen event happens, where I can't hit that interval- at least it will buy me a bit more time.
I would not spend 28-32$ a jug for extended OC oil though, for a GDI engine
Yes with GDI engine and direct injection there is no such thing as a 20,000 mile oil!
 
I cringe at the thought of going that long without an oil change. Perhaps it’s just my old-school thinking by not always embracing all new tech. My son is a different story. I checked his engine oil and it looked like it’s been in there since Woodstock. ☮️
 
I'm sure plenty of people go 20,000 miles between oil changes. They use the brown and slippery stuff from JiffyLube.
 
I believe in a modern GDI engine driven in most suburban , mixed driving conditions there is zero advantage to using a 20K oil ... Why ? Because the oil is toast with soot and fuel dilution by 5K miles so why pay for and use 20K mile rated oil ?
i guess because people want the maximum protection for their engines and they assume a 20k miles oil is going to protect better than a 10k mile oil even if you drain it at 5k miles.
 
being a new Kia owner of a new, new Kia Soul, I was wondering why a 0w-20 full syn oil is spec'd for an anticipated 5-6k oci when conventional oil is marketed for 5k intervals...in my mind it is simply the requirement for 0w-20 for a miniscule fuel savings advantage vs regular 5w-20! if my vehicle survives the warranty period I might consider a longer oci with a 10k or 20k oci oil
I'm not trying to be Debbie Downer here, but please put to rest any thoughts of running extended OCI in your future with that Soul. I was once a Kia Soul owner which we had bought new and sadly it left me one morning on the side of the expressway, sitting in a pool of oil, with a new vent hole in my engine block. I was doing all of my own oil changes at about 6k OCI when I started to notice it was using oil. It concerned me enough that I took it to the dealership where they ran a oil consumption test. To make a long story short the dealership found no issues and assured me it was "normal" oil consumption. It was barely two months later that I found myself on the side of that expressway.
 
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