Ok, I thought I knew what I was gonna do until I came across this forum! Every time I make up my mind, I get swayed in another direction. Anyhow, I currently own a 2001 VW GTI with the 1.8 turbo motor and around 15,000 miles on it. I am looking for which oil weight to go with, and I am probably going to use Mobil 1 synthetic. When searching this forum, I came across a lot of 1.8t related posts, but none of them really have the same conditions as I do. I am located in sunny Southern California just to give you and idea of the weather. I drive about 10 miles to work every day right into downtown (I generally miss rush hour so its a high speed/low traffic jaunt). My car is driven very hard, and I like to road race/autocross/drag race every chance I get, which is about every weekend and every Wednesday night. The car has a bunch of engine mods and is putting out about 100hp/125tq over stock. I have read the manual and know what it recommends, but since my car has more hp than factory, I live in a "stable" climate, and I drive it harder than most, I am thinking I would need a different weight! Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance
1.8T VW oil weight
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If you are comfortable with the warranty issues (i.e. not going strictly by what VW says), remember every Porsche Turbo (many of which end up in sunny LA and some/many of which get driven hard and autocrossed) comes from the factory with M1 0W40...that oil would probably do you REALLY well and I'm not so sure it doesn't come close to what VW Europe recommends (don't know about VW USA). Now, if you just can't bring yourself to a ZEEDUB (zero w oil) or that big a viscosity spread, then I would go with M1 15W50. With the way you drive (that's a compliment
[ July 21, 2003, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
You know Lube Control mixed with the 15W50 might work well. Terry and Molakule think that the solvency of the oil is important. Terry also thinks that the AW/EP add's in M1 are not up to par. THe LC would improve solvency!
If you want to absolutely use M1, for your weather and driving style I'd say min 0w40. Maybe even 15w50.
I'd go with the M1 0w40; 15w50 is way too heavy for this engine. Remember, ceteris paribus, light oil cools better than heavy oil.
Thanks for such swift replies guys! It seems the general concencus would be to go for the 0W40.
Just out of curiousity, why is this a bad thing? I tried searching but didnt come up with much on it. Would there be any type of "performance hit" by using one of the weights over another?
It's not absolutely necessary. I figured that it seemed to always get good UOA's and it seems to be the "best" of the "easily obtainable/readily available" synthetics. I would prefer to stay away from online ordering.
My 1998 VW Passat 1.8T called for 10w-30. What does your owner's manual say to use? How hot are your summers?
You'll never need the cold cranking properties of a 0w-XX oil in southern California. I'd use a synthetic 10w-40 in your climate and driving habits.
You'll never need the cold cranking properties of a 0w-XX oil in southern California. I'd use a synthetic 10w-40 in your climate and driving habits.
Mobil 1 doesn't make a 10w40. Besides, if the 0w40 is good enough for AMG and Porsche it should be good enough for him.
Patman
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I think this engine would probably like something that is a high 30wt to low 40wt, so something in the range of 12cst to 14cst.
The German made 0w30 Castrol would be good, or Mobil 1 0w40, or some of the 5w40s out there too. Amsoil 5w30 would also work very well.
Even though you don't need the 0w oils for their cold cranking abilities, that doesn't mean to avoid them since they have viscosities very similar to 5w30 and 10w30 oils at 40c.
The German made 0w30 Castrol would be good, or Mobil 1 0w40, or some of the 5w40s out there too. Amsoil 5w30 would also work very well.
Even though you don't need the 0w oils for their cold cranking abilities, that doesn't mean to avoid them since they have viscosities very similar to 5w30 and 10w30 oils at 40c.
Oh well. There are other oil makers out there that do make a synthetic 10w-40.
I never said 0w-40 isn't a good oil. But that's how VAG (VW, Audi, Porsche) work these days. They just choose an oil that's a "one viscosity for all climates" oil. I was just making the point that a 0w-XX oil is not necessary in the warm winters of California. Just like a 5w-XX oil is not necessary in my Texas winters. That's why I choose to use a synthetic 15w-40 instead of a synthetic 5w-40 in my VW TDI like VW recommends.
[ July 21, 2003, 08:00 PM: Message edited by: TexasTDI ]
20valves,
I won't argue when an Amsoil rep recommends Redline...
I'll explain my remark about zeedubs:
(1) I've noticed that a few folks can't seem to get past the 0W (not seeing or understanding the 30 or 40 that comes after) and think it is too thin an oil. This is not the case but I make allowances for that when I recommend a zeedub.
(2) WARNING: I am not nearly as gifted in this area as some of our resident chemists/tribologists, but I'll explain it as best I can. The part about the viscosity spread refers to the fact that unless you have a dynamite base oil that can make the spread without a lot of viscosity improvers (polymers), over time you get polymers sheared off into your oil, creating detritus that your oil has to hold in suspension until the next change and as the viscosity improvers shear off you can/will get thinning of the oil (I am not talking about the normal change in viscosity that happens due to temperature changes). Now this happens with most to all multigrades but it can be worse with those that have a large spread (e.g. 0W40, 5W50) unless the base oil is really really good. Synthetics have better "natural" (funny word to use when describing a "synthetic") ability to make the wide spread than dino oils.
[ July 21, 2003, 10:32 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
I won't argue when an Amsoil rep recommends Redline...
I'll explain my remark about zeedubs:
(1) I've noticed that a few folks can't seem to get past the 0W (not seeing or understanding the 30 or 40 that comes after) and think it is too thin an oil. This is not the case but I make allowances for that when I recommend a zeedub.
(2) WARNING: I am not nearly as gifted in this area as some of our resident chemists/tribologists, but I'll explain it as best I can. The part about the viscosity spread refers to the fact that unless you have a dynamite base oil that can make the spread without a lot of viscosity improvers (polymers), over time you get polymers sheared off into your oil, creating detritus that your oil has to hold in suspension until the next change and as the viscosity improvers shear off you can/will get thinning of the oil (I am not talking about the normal change in viscosity that happens due to temperature changes). Now this happens with most to all multigrades but it can be worse with those that have a large spread (e.g. 0W40, 5W50) unless the base oil is really really good. Synthetics have better "natural" (funny word to use when describing a "synthetic") ability to make the wide spread than dino oils.
[ July 21, 2003, 10:32 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
Some engines have much looser tolerances when cold and tighten up when hot. Some Audi engines with low-tension piston rings (and good valve seals) burn 0W-40 only when cold - 10/15W40 seems to cure it. Just an anecdote from two Audi/VW mechanics...
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Threadjack, sorry...
geo,
do you know how the clearances in VW/Audi engines compare to other makes? I'm of course especially interested in the 2.8 12v...
geo,
Anecdote recorded...thanks for the info. In reference to my comment, all the people I have heard state reservations about the zeedubs put it in the context of, "But a zero weight oil must be so thin," (and must stay that way all through the applicable temperature ranges) and so I was making my comment in light of that. Your info indicates I should more carefully frame what I told 20valves in case the situation you are talking about is what concerns them.
[ July 21, 2003, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
Anecdote recorded...thanks for the info. In reference to my comment, all the people I have heard state reservations about the zeedubs put it in the context of, "But a zero weight oil must be so thin," (and must stay that way all through the applicable temperature ranges) and so I was making my comment in light of that. Your info indicates I should more carefully frame what I told 20valves in case the situation you are talking about is what concerns them.
[ July 21, 2003, 11:52 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
pscholte, you're welcome.
I know this pertains to the 2.8 12V engine. I don't know if the 1.8T specically is affected by low-tension rings or loose cold tolerances. Since this is a 503.00 spec WIV (extended drain) engine, I'm guessing it may not be.
[ July 22, 2003, 02:47 AM: Message edited by: geo ]
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Interesting, Audi/VW must have updated the 1.8T motor. The earlier 1.8T had the same oil requirements like the 2.8 12v engine: VW500.00, VW501.01, API-SF/SG
I guess, Audi changed the engines in May '99.
I agree that where you live, a 0-weight oil is not necessary. You don't encounter much cold weather at all. And I'm not convinced that these oils with a wide viscosity range will hold up as well under very high heat/stress. Your engine in particular needs an oil that will stand up to very high stress. You have a fairly highly modified turbo motor producing around 250 hp instead of the stock 150 hp. That alone produces alot of heat. In addition, you drive it very hard and like to road race/autocross/drag race every chance you get. Under those conditions I'd be running Redline 10w40. If I didn't want to pay $7/quart I'd use Mobil 15w50. No 0-weights.
without a doubt, my choice would be Amsoil series 2000 0w30. With change intervals of 10,000 miles(slightly reduced becuase of the turbo charging.)
My second choice would either be Amsoils' 10w30 ATM or Redline's 10w30.
There is no need to put a heavier oil to rob horse power or fuel economy. Definately stay away from a 10w40 or higher.
[ July 22, 2003, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: msparks ]
My second choice would either be Amsoils' 10w30 ATM or Redline's 10w30.
There is no need to put a heavier oil to rob horse power or fuel economy. Definately stay away from a 10w40 or higher.
[ July 22, 2003, 08:41 AM: Message edited by: msparks ]
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