0w40 or 5w40.....and engine wear

Not open for further replies.
You know we have two site sponsors that carry a 5W40. Our Mobil site sponsor carrys Delvac 1 and The Redline site sponsor also carrys a 5W40. I would recomend you try one. I am useing Redline 5W40 dureing a Michigan winter and so far I am happy with it. The engine runs smoother then it did with convetional oil in it. I was running 10W30 in it before! I do not have a UOA for it yet. Seeing how 5W40 have been used in big diesels and little awd sports cars with great sucsess I would doubt that you would have any problems. I would not get any wider of spread though then 5W40. Once you get into 0W40,5W50 and 10W60 you can start to get too many viscosity improvers mixed into the oil!

I think you try it you best choices are Delvac 1 and Redline. THe Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 results I have seen have not been that great compared to their competition. I am not saying RTS is bad because it is not but at 1/2 the price of their competion it is not competitive! I cost is an issue try RTS 5W40 first just to see if you like and then try steeping up to the more expensive brands to see the difference!
I am currently useing the 5W40 in 2003 Toyota Camry. I have a 4cylinder in it. I really do not track my gas millage that closely. I really drive it too agressively to get consistent gas numbers. Seeing how it is a 4 door economy family sedan I have not made plans to do any Dyno runs.

If I could afford it I would play around with turbo chargeing it. This engine has such a flat power band torque and HP are almost flat from 1000-6000 RPM's due to it's variable cam timeing and variable lift. It has something like 40-50 degrees of variable cam timeing plus variable lift. IT will rev past 8000 RPM. This engine is begging for bigger cam, richer fuel mapping and twin seq. turbo's with a huge inter-cooler!!!!

I can tell you I get between 310 miles to a half tank of gas. This is with defrost going and turning 3000+ RPM's all the way to work and home. The tank holds 18.5 gallons I pass any chance I can safely do so! I drive safe and never faster then conditions allow but I do have a heavy foot.

If their is any HP loss my butt dyno can not tell! Seeing how the most difference you see is about 5 HP on average due to weight of oil alone I do not sweat it! I would seriously doubt that their would be that much loss with a 5W40 compared to a 5W30. I need to switch my gear lube over to synthetic. When the temp drops below 20F my oil is fine but the trany fluid feels thick and has a lot of drag! It is OEM gear lube in the trany! I am going to put a 60/40 mix of Redline MTL/MT90 in it.

[ December 17, 2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
I have a 99 camry with the 2.2 and that car is a sled. If I lost 5 HP, I think I would have to get out and push. I'm glad to hear that toyota corrected that problem with the new model. I am running mobil 1 5w30 in the car and it seems to really like it, according to the UOA. I have allways used 5w30's in my newer vehicles and have never had a problem with it. In fact, I have never had a vehicle that burned oil, that didn't burn it before I bought it. I had a 93 pontiac grand prix, that had almost 200k when I got rid of it, and the engine was in great shape, and still didn't use a drop of oil between changes. The car saw nothing but 5w30 conventional, but it was changed religiously every 3k.

What is it about 5w30's that you think is causing the wear in the engines you see? The fact that it shears down to a 20 weight fairly quickly? What do you think of the new 5w20's spec by ford and honda?
Not open for further replies.