0w20 in truck that sits?

[TheKracken]

Hi all, new here but have been lurking. I posted as well in the filter section about my truck that will be sitting for weeks to months at a time over the next year or so.

I am curious if a 0w20 would help a lot with dry starts.
The truck is a 97 toyota 3.4 v6 (t100 4x4) with 240k miles and owners manual calls for 5w30 and as far as I know the previous owner ran 10w40 I believe (conventional)

I switched it for the first oil change to a blend (my own) of high mileage 5w30 conventional and synthetic (3.5 Q conv , 2 q synth) for 3k miles, I believe the engine leaks from the rear main seal a bit but I didn't notice a drop in oil level over 3k miles. Previous owner also said it leaks a little.

I just did another oil change and switched it to 0w40 PP euro full syn because I had assumed the 0w might help just a little with the dry starts. I also have read on here the 0w40 euro's are made from group IV base oils and are therefore one of the best prices on shelf for a oil of this quality.

I am currently running PP 0w20 in my sienna and it seems to like it, was also speced for 5w30 though I think they back speced to 5w20 too.

Would 0w-20 be fine for a truck? When I think of my sienna I think of a family easily used vehicle that would benefit from a mpg saving oil like 0w20. But when I think of my truck I want a nice and "stout" oil that will hold up to abuse, so that is where 0w40 comes in. MPG in my truck I don't care a ton about, it has oversized mud tires, lifted and not designed for mpg (bought this way basically, would have prefered a 4 cyl for mpgs!)

Any advice on how to take care of a vehicle that sits? I want to keep this for a long time.

 

[OPR4H]

You'd need a 0WXX in winter, at most, if much. If you want a 40 grade, consider a 5w40 synthetic or even 10w40 semisyn.

 

[69GTX]

Should be little to no difference with a 0w-20 vs. 0w-40 in Seattle, WA climate which is fairly mild. Temps below 15 deg F are rare. So even a 5w is fine...and possibly even the 10w. As long as the oil flows at startup, it could be preferable to have the slightly thicker oil at cold startup temps. During the initial "dry" start (if there is such a thing), the higher viscosity oil likely protects better.

 

[FCD]

You will not notice any better fuel economy with 0W-20, i'd run Valvoline Maxlife 5W-40 in it, Maxlife always helps with leaky engines.

 

[umungus1122]

Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
You will not notice any better fuel economy with 0W-20, i'd run Valvoline Maxlife 5W-40 in it, Maxlife always helps with leaky engines.

I don't believe Maxlife 5w-40 is available (easily anyway) in the US. OP- In Seattle I'd use a high mileage conventional or blend since it's leaking, in 5w-30 to 10w-40 range. No need for 0w-20 because it sits.

 

[FCD]

It isn't? then use Mobil 1 10W-30 HM or 10W-40 HM.

 

[raytseng]

stick with pp. 5w30 for 2 or 3 oil changes. check to see if it still leaks after that.

I don't understand the logic of the dry starts and sitting leading to your worry about wear. if the car is sitting for months at a time, there is no wear happening so wear shouldnt be your worry. its simple math, but say you put 2000miles on the car a year because it sits. it's going to take you 10years to put on 20,000 miles. all the consumables on your car is going to rot from time not from wear or usage, and need to be replaced proactively.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: raytseng
stick with pp. 5w30 for 2 or 3 oil changes. check to see if it still leaks after that.

I don't understand the logic of the dry starts and sitting leading to your worry about wear. if the car is sitting for months at a time, there is no wear happening so wear shouldnt be your worry. its simple math, but say you put 2000miles on the car a year because it sits. it's going to take you 10years to put on 20,000 miles. all the consumables on your car is going to rot from time not from wear or usage, and need to be replaced proactively.


Good points, an engine is in a zero state of wear when it is not running. The mfg spec'd oil should be fine, I prefer synthetic. If dry starts are a concern look into a pre-luber. That circulates oil through the system before the key is turned and the engine is started. I've used one for close to 30 years on my van.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I'd just use 5w-30. I like using 0w oils but even here in upstate NY I don't feel that is necessary. No problems or funny noises from my jeep cold starting in 0F with 10w-30 in the sump. I can't imagine it gets that cold even in Seattle.

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: raytseng
stick with pp. 5w30 for 2 or 3 oil changes. check to see if it still leaks after that.

I don't understand the logic of the dry starts and sitting leading to your worry about wear. if the car is sitting for months at a time, there is no wear happening so wear shouldnt be your worry. its simple math, but say you put 2000miles on the car a year because it sits. it's going to take you 10years to put on 20,000 miles. all the consumables on your car is going to rot from time not from wear or usage, and need to be replaced proactively.


Good points, an engine is in a zero state of wear when it is not running. The mfg spec'd oil should be fine, I prefer synthetic. If dry starts are a concern look into a pre-luber. That circulates oil through the system before the key is turned and the engine is started. I've used one for close to 30 years on my van.


Could you please provide more info on a pre-luber ?

I have seen HVAC chillers that operated the electric oil pump for a preset time interval , before the chiller started .

God bless
Wyr

 

[Dino01]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
I'd just use 5w-30. I like using 0w oils but even here in upstate NY I don't feel that is necessary. No problems or funny noises from my jeep cold starting in 0F with 10w-30 in the sump. I can't imagine it gets that cold even in Seattle.
cold in Seattle is 38 degrees which it is most of the year, so to the engine it's not cold, but to those of us unfortunate enough to live here it feels terrible and much colder because it's always WET.

OP I'd stick with 5w30 and call it good.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: raytseng
stick with pp. 5w30 for 2 or 3 oil changes. check to see if it still leaks after that.

I don't understand the logic of the dry starts and sitting leading to your worry about wear. if the car is sitting for months at a time, there is no wear happening so wear shouldnt be your worry. its simple math, but say you put 2000miles on the car a year because it sits. it's going to take you 10years to put on 20,000 miles. all the consumables on your car is going to rot from time not from wear or usage, and need to be replaced proactively.


Good points, an engine is in a zero state of wear when it is not running. The mfg spec'd oil should be fine, I prefer synthetic. If dry starts are a concern look into a pre-luber. That circulates oil through the system before the key is turned and the engine is started. I've used one for close to 30 years on my van.


Could you please provide more info on a pre-luber ?

I have seen HVAC chillers that operated the electric oil pump for a preset time interval , before the chiller started .

God bless
Wyr


Mine is a small pump mounted in the engine bay, there is a small very fine screen inside the pump. I draws oil from a special plug on the oil pan, and feeds it into a Tee fitting into the oil sending unit. I flip a switch and watch the oil pressure gauge, when I have oil pressure I start the engine. If you're handy you can make one yourself. With quick connect fittings you can use it to change your oil as well.

This is something similar, and you can use it as a DIY guide.

http://www.engineprelube.com/