0w-40 viscosity engine oils

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Doug, if you want to see a good example of M1 0W-40 not performing as well as other oils, spend some time looking at UOAs VW 1.8T engine. You dig them up; you are the one who wants to see evidence so bad. I have this engine (it's hard on oils) and have been analyzing the UOAs on it for years. It is clear after viewing lots of these UOAs that M1 0W-40 almost always gives higher iron wear numbers than other oils typically used in these engines. It does sheer quite a bit as well, without fuel dilution being the cause. After x amount of miles (somewhere around 5k miles), it starts to thicken up and by around 10k miles, the viscosity is about back to where it started (that does not meet my definition of staying "in grade" even though it meets ACEA A3's standard for that). Most other 5W-40 oils sheer similarly in the 1.8T (Amsoil 5W-40 appears to be exception), so we cannot single out M1 0W-40 for this trait. But 30 weight oils like GC and M1 5W-30/10W-30 and even Amsoil 5W-40 do not show this same sheering trend (in 5000 miles). Question is does sheering pose a problem? At least one study says that broken down VI improvers is a contributor to residual debris, potentially sludge precursors. You may choose to ignore that, but I see no reason to distrust that finding.

Now about the iron wear numbers in UOAs. In 5k miles in the 1.8T, typical iron wear number values with M1 0W-40 are about 17 ppm, while other top oils typically give about 10, 11, 12. That may not sound like much in those terms. Take the % difference to get a better feel for how much more iron is coming out of the engine (e.g (17-12)/12 = 41% more ppm of iron by changing to M1 0W-40 from these other oils). What "top oils" am I speaking of: 5W-40 versions of Valvoline Synpower, LubroMoly, Amsoil, Pentosyn. GC and M1 5W-30 also could be on the list of low iron wear oils in this engine. Maybe there is something strange going on with M1 0W-40 and all these extra particles are super tiny relative to the iron particles with other oils, so the UOAs are misleading. But there is no evidence to suggest that so cannot assume (maybe some particle size testing could settle that). And since M1 5W-30 usually gives less iron wear than M1 0W-40, I especially doubt any such mystery effect since the main difference those 2 oils is viscosity.

Then there are the high temperature tests I have done using M1 0W-40, Valvoline 5W-40, Castrol Syntec 10W-40, GC, Amsoil 5W-40, M1 5W-30, M1 10W-30 EP & non-EP, Valvoline Synpower 10W-30, and Redline 10W-30. I'll keep this as brief as possible, so will omit many details. The first two oils showed nearly identical resistance to thermal oxidation, sludge/deposit formation, and volatility. The latter is a Group 3 oil, as we know, and it actually gives great UOAs in the 1.8T. The point is M1 0W-40 is only equal to a Group 3 5W-40 oil in terms of handling high temps. It's not some oil with fabulous base stocks despite what Mobil tells us. The other oils listed above were all significantly more robust in my tests than the first 2 oils (including Amsoil 5W-40 and Syntec 10W-40 - both 40 weight oils). The general reason for the 30 weight oils doing well is that they start out with thicker base stocks and have less (or none) VI improvers. Amsoil 5W-40 likely outperformed M1 0W-40 and Valvoline 5W-40 due to superior base stocks (a good PAO) and possibly lower VI improvers amounts. GC (new Gold version) was particularly interesting because it has nice viscosity vs. temp characteristics and was still as equally robust as M1 10W-30 EP and slightly more robust than M1 5W-30. That indicates excellent base stocks in GC. Also of note is that Valvoline Synpower 10W-30 and M1 10W-30 performed the same in my tests, while Redline 10W-30 showed zero deposits/sludge and significantly less volatility than both preceding oils. Those ester basestocks in Redline sure can handle high temps. These tests were used to rank oils in various areas in extreme temps, not necessarily represent conditions inside an engine; an oil that beats another in these extreme temps will not necessarily show differences at 210 deg F, but the outcome certainly won't reverse. FWIW, the temperatures of a glowing red turbo are in the neighborhood of >1200 degrees F. Another FWIW, sludge/deposits can be left behind in an engine without ever showing up in the UOAs (and thus, part of the motivation for doing these tests). I have left out test details because it would take too long to write out here. If you don't want to believe my results, do some tests yourself.

Meeting lots of European oil specs is nice but it is possible to do so and still be outperformed by oils meeting those same specs (obviously) and in some case by oils that don't even meet those specs (e.g. M1 5W-30 beating M1 0W-40 in terms of wear numbers and sludge/deposit formation in the 1.8T). Man cannot live by oil specs met alone, is what someone said. Tests in those Euro specs are pretty stringent, but not amazingly so; they are looking for suitable oils, not trying to make them so only 1 or 2 unbelievable oils can meet them. Looking at a combination of MANY UOAs, specs met, and maybe even some home experiments tells a much better story about how an oil stacks up.

These shortcomings don't matter for the average car owner. M1 0W-40 will undoubtedly give long life to all or nearly all gasoline engines with proper drain intervals. I'm not saying it is a bad oil; it's just that there are better choices. I am saying that based on many UOAs and my own high temperature tests, it will not give as long an engine life as some other oils on an engine that is hard on oils. Not only is the 1.8T hard on oil, but so are the turbo Saab and Volvo engines.

BTW, I think it is low that you have quoted and challenged TooSlick as a main point of this thread. Work out that issue with a therapist or something, not on here.
 
wavinwayne, here is an actual picture of buster and me in the proper setting:

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http://www.holyhead.com/Laurel & Hardy by car.jpg
 
First of all, it's Dad2leia.

Second of all, I wasn't directly stating that you were playing the ACEA rating game, merely stating a fact of observation with this topic of discussion.

Third of all, what oil do you use?
 
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First of all, it's Dad2leia.

Second of all, I wasn't directly stating that you were playing the ACEA rating game, merely stating a fact of observation with this topic of discussion.

Third of all, what oil do you use?

Sorry, I thought Leia's Dad was Darth.
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I wasn't implying you were accusing me of playing ACEA rating games. I was simply stating a fact (mostly for buster
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I use M1 5W-40 in my 2.8 V6 12v Audi engine.
 
Oh, and as for the name, Leia is my daughter's name, and since I'm dad, everything I do is for her, so dad-to-Leia, hence my moniker.
 
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Nice pics. BTW, I wasn't angry when writing that, it just looked like it. I agree with you. I have nothing more to add. We all sound like a bunch of broken records.
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Hi,
JAG - I thank you for your comment;
"BTW, I think it is low that you have quoted and challenged TooSlick as a main point of this thread. Work out that issue with a therapist or something, not on here."

This certainly tells us "where you come from" and indicates your friendliness in your first post.
My eldest son is a specialist psychiatrist and I've just spent a week on holiday with he and his family. He has not suggested I need any treatment - and he knows me best - but thanks for the advice!

Your testing is "interesting" and I will not attempt to "dismantle" your observations and the conclusions you have drawn from your tests
But as a point of interest I do have many 500hp engines that show 1000F plus turbo temperatures many times EACH DAY and have 62k+ OCIs - and they all last for around a million miles without teardown! And I have hundreds of UOAs to support the results as well!!

I won't attempt to justify my comments on this thread to you either or to substantiate my background!

However, nothing that has been posted here has shown any substantiation of these comments by Ted (Tooslick);

"I may have misspoken...it seems wear was reduced by 50%-70% compared to the Mobil 1, 0w-40, rather than the mere 25%-40% I had predicted in the previous thread. LOL!

I think the 5w-40 vs 0w-40 issue is pretty much settled, at least in terms of wear protection."

And as for his unsubstantiated comments on "....excessive valve train wear...." that have been made for years now – well......!

I have no "issue" at all with Ted - I have an issue with obvious misinformation and data posted by individuals that should know better. Some posters often think that they know better than the engine makers and the combined research Engineers of the major Oil Companies and equipment manufacturers! You see JAG I have a background in these areas over 50 years - and I still know that I don't!

Strange too that M1 0w-40 is mentioned so often when the thread was clearly generated around a viscosity and specifically NOT a Brand!

Perhaps I need to see a therapist..............................!
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Doug
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Hi Doug, sorry, I couldn't help myself when I made my therapist comment. I meant is as a snide joke and didn't mean it literally. I actually do respect your knowledge and have been reading your posts (and everyone elses of course) for several years.

"But as a point of interest I do have many 500hp engines that show 1000F plus turbo temperatures many times EACH DAY and have 62k+ OCIs - and they all last for around a million miles without teardown! And I have hundreds of UOAs to support the results as well!!"

Do you mean 1000F EGT temps or actually temps of the turbo bearings? I imagine it's the former since the latter isn't usually measured. But either way, I know that if the turbo is cooled down before the engine is shut off, deposits on turbo bearings will usually be minor (even when the oil is not synthetic). I say this based on a 1.8T owner who used non-synthetic oil and drove the car like mad and did not do proper cool downs. When he disassembled his turbo it had only minor deposits on it. But this turbo heat and especially heat from having oil lines near the exhaust manifold (present in longitudinal 1.8T car) stresses the oil and increases its propensity to sludge up elsewhere in the engine, as evidenced by the sludged longitudinal 1.8Ts we often hear about. I guess what I'm saying is if you have an engine that is a terror on oils, it is preferable to use an oil that is highly heat tolerant. My tests showed M1 0W-40 is outperformed by some other oils in this aspect. Not to say it will allow sludge to form without a doubt, but it does increase the chance relative to some other oils. Another tidbit to tell is I've been using a magnet that fits inside the oil filter. After each oil change I wipe off the metallic debris and put it in the new filter. After doing this for about 30k miles, I noticed it was tacky and slightly milky looking when I dried it off. So I rubbed it on scouring powder and the slight sludge that was on it came off. It was then sqeaky clean and back to its normal shiny black color. I used many oils with this same filter so can't conclude anything other than these top notch oils I used are leaving some deposits behind.

My main point for posting is that if you look at all of the UOAs of 1.8T engines that used M1 0W-40, you will see trends similar to what TooSlick stated. BTW, I think he was joking on his later, higher estimate that you quoted, so go with his smaller value (25-40%). This will take some time to do and best way is to search for "1.8T" in the UOA forum. Please do this for your sake, not mine or anybody elses. Not doing so will likely never allow you to understand why some people say what they do about this oil. I'm sure it is a pretty awesome oil in many naturally apsirated engines...in fact the UOAs show it is. Wear numbers look very good and it does not sheer in those applications.

I only mentioned one 0W-40 oil because it is the only one I have experience with and have seen lots of data on. I have seen some LubroMoly 0W-40 results that showed higher wear numbers than LubroMoly 5W-40 but there is not enough sample size to make a firm judgement.

Again, sorry for the jab at you previously. Cheers.
 
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Originally posted by Dad2leia:
Oh, and as for the name, Leia is my daughter's name, and since I'm dad, everything I do is for her...

Wouldn't "dad4leia" have been better then?
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The above posts point to the same thing I have advocated. Use the oil that best meets your personal needs. Here on this site we can all do this as we have the knowledge, as well as the help and ideas from others with equal interest. The knowledge and discussion here is light years ahead of other web sites regardless of the topic.

Just the same I am one to experiment. On the recommendation of Terry from Dyson I am going to 5W-20 in the Lamborghini Murcielago. He is not happy with the fuel dilution and wants that tainted 0W-30 Mobil 1 out of there. He is not worried about the viscosity but the side effects of the fuel. I ordered Red Line and will do the change next week. This should be fun. I cannot wait for the first UOA.

Our problem is that we have 5 vehicles and each must be run so it is hard to get many miles going with mostly city driving. Most cars have oils changes at 3,000 +/- miles at one year. I do not like to keep oil in there much longer.

The UOA from the Red Line 5W-20 in the Maybach is going out tomorrow. This should be interesting too. Let's see what we get!

aehaas
 
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He has not suggested I need any treatment - and he knows me best - but thanks for the advice!

Doug ..it's like water off a duck's back.
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I meant is as a snide joke and didn't mean it literally. I actually do respect your knowledge and have been reading your posts (and everyone elses of course) for several years.

Gremlins
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can say so much in these instances..
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quote:

Originally posted by AEHaas:
The UOA from the Red Line 5W-20 in the Maybach is going out tomorrow. This should be interesting too. Let's see what we get!

How many miles did you put on the Red Line? What did you put back in the Maybach?
 
I did not change the oil in the Maybach. The sample had around 2,500 miles on the oil. I think the car has a total of 4,200 miles now. What a great car. I still have to test the 0-60 time but have been too busy what with hurricanes blowing through and all.

aehaas
 
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G-Man II, you can blame the wife. She started it with her monikers at her websites, so I just continued it with mine. The short of it is that everything of mine will be hers, hence "Dad2leia"!!

Getting back on topic, who else besides Mobil, Esso, and Bel-Ray motorcylce lubricants makes 0w40 for an honest comparision of this viscosity to put the wear numbers to rest?
 
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wear numbers

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Some 0W-40 oils:

Castrol RS 0W-40
John Deere 0W-40 (for the tractor that's driven like a Ferrari)
Amsoil 0W-40 (is that for cars?)
Motul E-Tech 0W-40
Lubro Moly Vollsynthese Energy 0W-40
AGIP Synthetic PC 0W-40
AGIP Eurosport 0W-40
PETRONAS SYNTIUM 5000 0W-40
ELF Excellium 0W-40
ARAL Vollsynthetisch 0W-40
 
Amsoil 0w40 - Motorcycle lubricant designed that I'd use in a vehicle if I needed a 40 weight lubricant.

Motul E-Tech 0w40 - Vive la France e lubricants.

John Deere 0w40 - Ferrari eat your heart out!!!

Lubro Moly 0w40 - what's the sense of being German if your not into lubricants (present poster included in that one
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Castrol - overrated

Don't know about the others moribundman. Are they available here as well?
 
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Castrol - overrated

It will do just fine in your Nissan!
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You hadn't asked for 0W-40 oils that were available locally. Anyway, please let me know if you find any useful "wear numbers."
 
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