0W-20 vs. 5W-30 - General Motors Warranty Concern

[Monte32]

Thanks for all the input guys. The manual is kind of confusing as well. It goes on and on about 0W-20 being the oil that the 5.3 engine was tested and created with. But then in another section it states that you need to use a "Dexos 1" approved oil but says nothing about the grade. I had 8 quarts of Castrol Edge 5W-30 so I used it. I guess I just got paranoid reading so many people saying that the engine was speced for 0W-20 for a reason, or that I'd be ruining my engine because the EcoTec was radically redesigned from the previous 5.3 engine. Hence it "required only 0W-20".

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

0W-20 will barely get you through warranty and then your engine will be shot.

Not mine.

 

[AirgunSavant]

Exactly........ And if you did blow a motor on 5w30 if it is possible we all have several grades of oil on hand and many have permanent records via online shopping like AZ, AAP. Walmart, Amazon., and if you're anal all you have to do is empty the oil and pour in 0w20 before the tow truck comes especially if at home or you have an oil extraction unit. That's if you're foolish enough to believe they will test your oil to make sure it was in grade.

Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker

It all has to do with your comfort level and what you can tolerate for being unique. In over 4 decades of personal and commercial vehicle ownership, I have never seen a dealer or OEM even ask much about motor oil being used let alone try to claim it was the wrong viscosity. Yes, even when I had a warranty issue. And I have yet to even hear of a dealer going to the length to test an oil to "prove" that it was the wrong viscosity or not something like dexos1 compliant. I have used many oils, gear lubes, etc that were not on some OEM's "approved" lubrication list and never had a lubrication related issue. I don't go wildly outside the bounds of common sense, but I don't always say to the OEM "yes sir, yes sir, three bags full". For me anyway, I won't sit around worrying that I am not stepping outside the box even the least little bit for warranty reasons. Millions of miles of vehicle ownership, dealing with many dealers and OEM's over the years just has not convinced me that I need to toe the line that close. And on this one... one is going to have a real tough time convincing many folks with a modicum of mechanical reasoning that an engine that once used 5w30 just fine in 2014, now needs a 0w20 just because it now has direct injection in 2015. Actually, reasoning would say the reverse. That 5w30 would be even more applicable due to potential fuel dilution of the oil due to DI.

 

[cmhj]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude

If it's under warranty use what GM says.. Dont take expensive chances

Yet many will challenge the idea and go off on their own as shown here

 

[Rat407]

A little info on the changes made to the GM engine family for 2014 and up. The oil system has changed in a major way as from just a direct drive oil pump. Also in all my revolutions around the sun, it amazes me that people question the manufactures recommendations. Maybe they should stop recommending oils, no longer have a warranty and let everyone run what they want since they all know better from "all the years" they have done things in life without any issues. Advanced Oiling System The oiling system incorporates a new variable displacement two-stage vane-type oil pump that enables more efficient oil delivery, based on the engine’s operating conditions. Its dual-pressure control enables operation at a very efficient oil pressure at lower rpm, and then delivers higher pressure at higher engine speeds. An oil control solenoid valve, controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM), mounted to the oil pump provides two-stage functionality. The oil pump is mounted on the front of the engine block and driven directly by the crankshaft sprocket. The pump rotor and vanes rotate and draw oil from the oil pan sump through a pick-up screen and pipe. The oil is pressurized as it passes through the pump and is sent through the engine block lower oil gallery. Pressurized oil is directed through the engine block lower oil gallery to the full-flow oil filter and then to the upper main oil galleries and the valve lifter oil manifold assembly. An oil passage at camshaft bearing location permits oil flow into the center of the camshaft. Oil enters the camshaft, exiting at the front and into the camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoid valve. The CMP valve spool position is controlled by the ECM and CMP magnet. When commanded by the ECM, the CMP magnet repositions the CMP actuator solenoid valve spool directing pressurized oil into the CMP actuator to control valve timing. dexos 1™ Engine Oil TIP: Failure to use the recommended engine oil and correct viscosity or its equivalent can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. The dexos1 specification was uniquely designed to complement the exacting requirements of GM’s advanced engine technology. The specification has gone through an extensive developmental and testing process. Only those oils displaying the dexos1 trademark and a registered trademark logo on the front label of the container meet the demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos1 specification. SAE 5W-30 is the required viscosity grade for the 4.3L engine. SAE 0W-20 is the required viscosity grade for the 5.3L and 6.2L engines. DO NOT use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50. The engine oil with filter capacity has increased significantly from model year 2013 to model year 2014. This also includes 2017 models as nothing has changed.

 

[Monte32]

For me, It' has nothing to do with "going off on my own". I stated that I'd quickly change to 0W-20 if the 5W-30 was bad in any way for my engine. This has nothing to do with being a rebel or going against the grain. But it does have everything to do with gathering facts and valued opinions before i toss away 8 quarts of brand new Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W-30 oil for no good reason.

 

[Tech819]

Originally Posted By: Monte32

For me, It' has nothing to do with "going off on my own". I stated that I'd quickly change to 0W-20 if the 5W-30 was bad in any way for my engine. This has nothing to do with being a rebel or going against the grain. But it does have everything to do with gathering facts and valued opinions before i toss away 8 quarts of brand new Castrol Edge full synthetic 5W-30 oil for no good reason.

Keep what you have in there now and change it to 0w20 for the next oil change

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW

For those that say 5W-30 will cause harm, (it won't) how do you propose the damage will occur? 5W-30 will be fine, and will likely increase protection at the cost of a percent or two higher fuel consumption. The engine will last forever on 0W-20. It will last forever-er on 5W-30, all other things being equal.

If the OP uses the truck as a commuter vehicle and does occasional light towing it may last forever. If the OP tows regularly at or near the limit of the vehicle in the So Cal area (mountains combined with desert heat) it will not last forever. If one peruses the boating forums guys are losing Chevy LS engines at around the 100-130K mark with regularity. Variable displacement lifter problem proliferate. If its this type of duty cycle one is imposing the the 30 along with premium air and oil filters along with reasonable OCI's will absolutely buy you longevity. IF you are running it as a commuter with an occasional load- the 20 is fine and maybe preferable. One of the great bitog myths I read every time Im on here is that engines never wear out, and any care beyond min OEM specs nets you the cleanest engine in the junkyard, and truthfully a decently maintained car engine may never wear out, a car engine typically see less than 20% load under extended running conditions. Trucks being used as tow rigs do not enjoy the longevity of their car related cousins, and if this is how you intend to use then all the extra loving you can heap on it actually does matter and all adds up in the long run. UD

 

[Ram01]

0w20 should be stout enough to protect these GM motors well into 400k range

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW

Why would the warranty in jeopardy? I have NEVER had a rep ask for an oil sample, even though "ze Germans" have much more stringent lubricant specifications. If your engine blows up, (it won't: it's a small block chebby) it won't be a lubrication failure. If you have a weird bearing or rocker failure caused by a manufacturing defect, all they're going to check that there was oil in the sump and the engine isn't sludged. So much fretting over nothing. OP, leave the oil in there. You're doing nothing but good for your engine.

First off, it's a diluted mix. Second DI engines can fuel dilute in addition to your top-off mix. Thirdly, it's DEXOS so it's not the thickest xW-30 in the world. Fourth, and most important, some oil is better than no oil. If it dies from some issue, the first thing they'll check is that there was enough oil in the crankcase. Keep it full with whatever you have

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Tech819

So what you're saying is most engines will not make it past 40k miles. That's a big statement that needs proof to back it up.

The point I was trying to make is you could use the 0W-20 during the warranty period like the engineers want you to, but there's a real good possibility that a 30 weight would have given you less engine wear during that time. You're sacrificing your engine so that the corporate auto maker can get their CAFE numbers up.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

0W-20 will barely get you through warranty and then your engine will be shot.

Remember our talk about you being a respected member and not trolling new members? Merk: look at Rat407's quote from GM. This must be sacrilege to you.

Quote:

DO NOT use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50.

Do note that your ILSAC 10w-30 is barely over the border into being a 30 in the first place, with respect to HTHS. Personally, Merk, with your aversion to wear and thin oils and your very short OCIs and your location (ULSG), you should be using a dexos2 5w-30. Why are you playing with this thin, ILSAC nonsense anyhow?

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Garak

Merk: look at Rat407's quote from GM. This must be sacrilege to you.

Quote:

DO NOT use other viscosity grade oils such as SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50.

Does it actually say that in the owner's manual ? I wonder why they didn't include 5W-30 ...

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

0W-20 will barely get you through warranty and then your engine will be shot.

Another ignorant troll response...just gets old...

 

[Nickdfresh]

The 5W-30 won't hurt anything, but I'd make darn sure it's Dexos1 rated, IMHO... Personally I'd run the 0W-20. Many trucks used to call for a Group I SAE20 oil and ran fine as any engine could in that era. You have over 8 qts. in your sump, I'd run what the manual calls for...

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh

Another ignorant troll response...just gets old...

But what if I'm right ? Do you have that much confidence in 0W-20 ?

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh

Another ignorant troll response...just gets old...

But what if I'm right ? Do you have that much confidence in 0W-20 ?

Enough to use it! And you're not right. Is GM wrong? I'll take their engineers over you any day. I'm surprised you don't use Group I non-detergent SAE30 for 500 mile OCI's like the good old days...

 

[jayg]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh

Another ignorant troll response...just gets old...

But what if I'm right ? Do you have that much confidence in 0W-20 ?

I have that much faith in 0w20. You are right only slightly more than the new guy koenigsegg castrol edge Jarad. (Which is a hair more than never). You like getting responses but you don't realize your troll posts just clutter up an otherwise halfway useful thread.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh

Enough to use it! And you're not right. Is GM wrong? I'll take their engineers over you any day. I'm surprised you don't use Group I non-detergent SAE30 for 500 mile OCI's like the good old days...

Out here in California, 10W-30 is very thin 9 months out of the year. I can't get myself to go thinner than that. If I had a truck like the OP's, I'd deprogram the multi-cylinder gadget and run 10W-30.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: jayg

You like getting responses but you don't realize your troll posts just clutter up an otherwise halfway useful thread.

If everybody just went by the owner's manual and had no doubts about its oil viscosity recommendation, we'd have nothing to talk about here on this board.