That would be the first time that’s ever happened here. Can you post the exact language from your manual that states that the oil grade is a condition of your vehicle warranty?
0W-20 or 5W-30 for a Plug-in Hybrid (Subaru)
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Will you fight OP's case in the court when the dealerships denies warranty work because of viscosity not mentioned in the owner's manual?
Yep, just bought a gas 2025 Forester and I will walk into Walmart and buy a bunch of 0W16 that meets the manufacturer's requirements, promptly return it, put in the 5W30 I already have for it, and document the receipt in digital maintenance log. I'm an honest guy when it counts, and it would be dishonest for Subaru to deny my warranty claim because I used thicker oil than specified, so I'm just playing their game, knowing what I'm doing is doing no harm.
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Chances are nothing will go wrong. And nothing would have gone wrong with 0w16 either. Subaru is not a Chevy or Chrysler.
I have read about one case a dealership took an oil sample prior to any warranty claim work.
Looking at the manual, oil grade is not a condition. TGMO or equivalent. The catch all on the next screenshot on non OEM parts.
Looking at the manual, oil grade is not a condition. TGMO or equivalent. The catch all on the next screenshot on non OEM parts.
As I thought, it doesn’t say that does it?
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Lsac gf-b comes in 0w 16 only. No?
Which isn’t required either is it? As in a requirement for your warranty.
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You're hired as OP's attorney
TGMO is not required. Grade is required. Viscosity is recommended, ie. not required.
well put.
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I don't have my manual handy with me right now, but it also says if you use 0w20, you must get back to 0w16 at the next oil change
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ILSAC GF-6B has only one viscosity, 0w16. 0w20, 5w20 and 5w30 are ILSAC GF-6A. And that manual doesn't allow GF-6A
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This is what 2025 Camry says. ILSAC GF-6B is gone.
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Not the language "must". Good luck convincing the dealer that 5w30 was not the cause of the engine problem. I hope Subaru's manual is not that harsh
So. If the engine blows you don't tell them you put a 30wt in there. Plus if people read their manual they'll find most will say that 30wt is just fine.
If the engine blows, they're going to do a UOA.
A UOA is the wrong tool to use to find starting viscosity. A VOA would be the correct tool. When I worked at the dealer a UOA was mostly used to determine if glycol was present in the oil during engine failures.
I can imagine with all the current fuel dilution problems we see here a UOA would show the dealer most are using an oil with lower than recommended viscosity.
I can imagine with all the current fuel dilution problems we see here a UOA would show the dealer most are using an oil with lower than recommended viscosity.
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Yes and are you claiming you don’t really understand why it’s worded that way?
Required for what? You’re inconsistent here, grade and viscosity are essentially the same thing.
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