'09 Mitsu Galant 3.8L V6

[Falcon_LS]

Couple of questions, would very much appreciate some input. Because the vehicle is built in the US, it calls for 5W-20 on the oil cap. 5W-20 is not a viscosity available in the Persian Gulf. Owner's manual has a chart with viscosities ranging from 0W-30 to 20W-50, depending on ambient temperature. Mitsubishi's recommendation is 15W-40 for conventional oil, unless the vehicle is operating is severe conditions, in which case 20W-50 is recommended.

First question is related to break-in. I am going to be replacing the factory fill/filter at 800 km (500 miles), then again at 1,600 km (1,000 miles). I've got two oil options available: Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 10W-30 or Pennzoil Long Life Gold 15W-40. Regardless of what I opt for, I will be adding a maintenance dose of ARX. I'm siding with Motorcraft, as I will only be running it for 800 km and it is a wee bit cheaper. But would not mind using Group II Long Life Gold for an additional $10. Any recommendations?

Second question is I will be running synthetic oil in this engine. I would like to go with PP, but it is only available at one outlet and they're ordering system sucks. They only order 72 1 quart bottles at a time, and the local 350Z guys sweep up the place as soon as PP 5W-30 makes an appearance. I don't want to keep switching oils, so I've decided to stick to Mobil 1 because it is widely available at all times. That said, as Mitsubishi recommends 15W-40 conventional, I'm considering M1 0W-40. Should I stick with it, or is M1 5W-30 a better option? Any synthetic lubricant must meet ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 at minimum, but A5/B5 is recommended. Thanks!

 

[Johnny]

Mobil 1 0W-40 for your synthetic. No ARX needed.

For your first two changes, either the Motorcraft or Pennzoil Long Life Gold will be fine. Using ARX is your choice, but I do not believe it is needed.

I find it funny that in Kuwait, you buy a Japanese car that is made in the USA. What a crazy world we live in now.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Thanks, Johnny!

Originally Posted By: Johnny
I find it funny that in Kuwait, you buy a Japanese car that is made in the USA. What a crazy world we live in now.


That's precisely why I bought it. I keep my vehicles for as long as possible, and wanted something that's sold in the States, in case the local dealer asks an arm and a leg for a replacement part several years down the road. Then all I have to do is order the said part from the States and Bob is your Uncle. I just ordered valves, valve guides and a timing belt tensioner for my truck. $122 including shipping, as opposed to the $238 asking price locally.

Shame nothing from the Big 3 caught my fancy. I would have loved another Grand Marquis, but Ford has de-contented the vehicle so much that a P72 Commercial model sold locally lacks only 3-4 features found on the top of the line LS Ultimate.

 

[addyguy]

For break-in, I'd use the MC 10W-30, and much as I like M1 0W-40, for the rest of the car's running, I'd go with M1 5W-30.

In the US, this engine calls for 20-weight, which tells me it will 'probably' get its best mileage on a thinner oil. M1 5W-30 is a plenty robust oil, and will be able to stand the heat well. Hight heat resistance is one of M1's strong points.

That said, M1 0W-40 is an excellent oil, and if you're more comfortable with that, it will perform flawlessly as well....

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Regardless of what I opt for, I will be adding a maintenance dose of ARX.

Not to question your tactics, but what is the purpose of running ARX in a brand new engine? Will you be running very long OCI (after the break-in period) and want to prevent deposits from building?

BTW, congrats on a new car!

 

[CROWNVIC4LIFE]

Congrats on the new car..I know that car has a good home.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
For break-in, I'd use the MC 10W-30, and much as I like M1 0W-40, for the rest of the car's running, I'd go with M1 5W-30.

In the US, this engine calls for 20-weight, which tells me it will 'probably' get its best mileage on a thinner oil. M1 5W-30 is a plenty robust oil, and will be able to stand the heat well. Hight heat resistance is one of M1's strong points.

That said, M1 0W-40 is an excellent oil, and if you're more comfortable with that, it will perform flawlessly as well....


Good point on the fuel economy, although I have to say I actually feel more comfortable with M1 0W-40, since it fits in with the 40-weight specification the manufacturer calls for here, if you know what I mean.

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Not to question your tactics, but what is the purpose of running ARX in a brand new engine? Will you be running very long OCI (after the break-in period) and want to prevent deposits from building?

BTW, congrats on a new car!


Thanks, Pete! I'll be running ARX for two reasons, the first being to 'soak' the seals and keep them elastic right from the start (hence running it in the first 1,000 miles) and the second to prevent deposits from building up, as I will be running 15,000 km OCIs. A bit of added 'protection' so to speak.

Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
Congrats on the new car..I know that car has a good home.


Thank you!

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
Mobil 1 0W-40 for your synthetic. No ARX needed.

For your first two changes, either the Motorcraft or Pennzoil Long Life Gold will be fine. Using ARX is your choice, but I do not believe it is needed.

...


+1 with Johnny's recommendations. I would just do an ARX rinse/clean cycle every 100K KM to rejuvenate the seals and clean things up a bit and not bother with the maintenance dose. IMO this works better.

You will have much better luck with these seals compared to the ones in your truck as they have changed the design to help stop them from hardening as quickly as past Mistubishi engine designs.

Mobil-1 is a darn good oil and the 0w40 will do you fine all year round IMO. As the engines gets older and a bit worn then you can opt for a 50wt in the summer and go back to the 0w40 in the less hot weather.

It would be great to see pictures of the M1 & filter after a 15K KM run and/or a UOA too!