'07 Honda Fit Sport No Start - Fuel Issue?

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2007 Honda Fit Sport with 150k miles no previous issues - very reliable: oil, brakes, & tires type car spark plugs were replaced recently but worst case there would seem like poor running, not no running. Engine will turn over just fine. We have spark at the coil (no plug wires). Battery voltage is good - 12.6V even put another one on it just to check. Plenty of fuel - 3/4 full. Immobilizer key icon turns off like it is supposed to so good key. Spray starter fluid, & it will run for a few seconds & die. Sounds like a fuel issue then, right? Should my next step then be to check for 12V at the fuel pump when key is turned to ON? It just seems very odd to me for it to be the fuel pump. I can't find an external fuel filter that could have clogged. Fuel rail issue? I can hear a click at the fuel rail when key is turned to ON position. Are there any known issues for this vehicle (seems very reliable in my searching)? For example, mid 90s Hondas had main relays go bad not the fuel pump. Crankshaft/camshaft sensor failure possible? Thanks.
 
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If it runs briefly on starting fluid it sounds like a fuel problem. If you had no spark it wouldn't run at all. Crankshaft position sensors and camshaft sensors usually cut the spark when they go bad, so I would look towards the fuel system. When you turn the key to "on" without starting the engine can you hear the fuel pump prime?
 
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Originally Posted By: benjamming
It just seems very odd to me for it to be the fuel pump
Why? 7 years and 150K is not a bad run for a pump. It starts on starting fluid so you seem to have found the answer its just a question of testing. Check the electrics to the pump and the pressure if possible. I suspect a bad pump.
 
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my 2010 is hard to start sometime, it feels like it looses prime. can you pull codes first? maybe it is flooded? try starting with the throttle Wide open. if it does not start then pull a plug and check if you smell gas for fuel
 
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Did you check the fuse for the injectors? If the fuse is ok (check with ohms as it can be hard to see or just put a new one in) next step is fuel pressure test. If you need a new fuel sending unit with sock and filter, it is an expensive component and has to be changed inside the car. There is an access port under the hand brake plastic piece.
 
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Can you pull the fuel line at the connector to the fuel rail? Get a plastic bottle and hold the line to catch fuel as someone else cranks the car a few seconds. Fuel pump fuse checked? I've had a few times where something electric went out, I pulled the appropriate fuse. That fuse looked good, so I plugged it back in place. Then the circuit came back as normal. I think there was just enough corrosion at the fuse contacts to stop the current. Anyway, worth a quick check. Fuel pressure regulator could be the culprit, but usually that will throw a lean or rich situation.
 

benjamming

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No codes are set. New fuel pump assembly with filter set is ~ $210 from Honda online. I'll check fuses. How do I check the fuel pressure regulator?
 

benjamming

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05LGTLtd, Thanks for the bump. Here's a summary of what has been done so far. Immobilizer light goes off - Yes gas in tank - Yes good battery - Yes spark at all 4 coil-on-plugs - Yes fuel pump & IGP fuse (both 15A) have continuity - Yes runs on flammable spray through air intake for a few seconds every time - Yes audible fuel pump run for 2 sec when key is switched to ON? - sometimes check PGM-FI main relay 2 I used the following link but ran into an issue. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay which is blue. I turn the ignition switch to ON. I get battery voltage when I check at terminal 3 & 2 but only 0.77V at terminal 4 & 0.28V on Terminal 1. Perhaps I'm not measuring correctly. What does it mean "terminal side of female terminals"? Also, there is a FI Main relay which is red but those instructions said it would be blue which is what I assume they refer to as the main relay 2. http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/97/SAA2E97A20326428302FAAT00.HTML If all that is indeed correct, then I need to pull the ECM/PCM. Where is it? check fuel pressure at quick disconnect near firewall - if good (47-54 psig?), then check relay - if not, then replace fuel pressure regulator & fuel filter in tank via access near center console. I haven't performed this yet but have the rental tool from AutoZone p/n 27167. http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/07/SAA2E07A20326400000FEAT00.HTML
 

benjamming

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Ok, so finally back on this car again & am stumped again. The fuel pump will not turn on for the first 2 seconds anymore. Per step 5 here http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/97/SAA2E97A20326428302FAAT00.HTML When I check the fuel pump relay terminal #4 (not the FI Main relay) for battery voltage it only reads 0.78V not battery voltage. When I perform step 6 (even though it says repair open wire if no battery voltage at terminal 4, I wasn't sure if "partial" voltage still meant an open in the wire between fuel pump relay & main relay) & check for battery voltage on terminal #1, it reads only 0.28V not battery voltage. I was expecting either nothing or 12V. I don't know what to do with a "partial" reading. Ideas? Thanks, Ben
 
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NO credit for partial voltage. The guide explicitly says battery voltage... It could be a loose connection, corrosion, a short and so on. Looks like you need to dive in and check that wire.
 

benjamming

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"Repair open in the wire between the PGM-FI main relay 1 and the PGM-FI main relay 2." is listed as the solution. Could that mean that the main relay 1 itself has an issue?
 
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I suppose it could. Don't throw parts at it, as it should be easy enough to test. You'll need a separate small load to test the relay output though, as the open or damaged wire may not show up until it sees a load.
 

benjamming

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Yeah, the last thing I want to do is throw parts at it. I think that the easiest thing to do is if it has 12V & ground at the pump but doesn't run & no output, then it has to be the pump.
 

benjamming

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It was the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump module assembly (pump, suction strainer, fuel sending unit, regulator, etc.) on Saturday, & all is well. 50psig under the hood on the firewall, starts well, & runs well. I haven't taken apart the old one to see if a failure mode is obvious. I didn't buy Honda's special tool for tightening the plastic locking nut, but simply hand tight & then use a hammer & "stick" to turn it quite a bit more until it wouldn't really turn anymore. Now to tackle the stuttering at highway speeds - valve adjustment & if no fix there then investigate coil packs. Thanks for the help.
 
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