'07 Elantra: 11K: What additives to run, when?

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Folks, I just swapped my '02 Sable for an '07 Hyundai Elantra with just over 11K.
I know that running Fuel Power is a good idea for any engine at any mileage.
I also know that running Lube Control is a good idea as well, and beginning with my next oil change I'll begin that regime.
Here's my question:
How old/how many miles are needed before an AutoRX treatment makes sense?
Should I schedule one for 25K? 36K? 50K?
Any other suggestions for additives that may have become good ideas since I stopped following this board some time back?
 
Hello
what happened to if it aint broke dont fix it? Use a good quality oil and filters and you will be fine.. remember everything you pour into your gas tank including the fuel you use no matter what quality has some negative effects such as shorter spark plug life at a minimum and also think of your motor oil which is contaminated by the blow by from all those chemicals.. Granted on a car with 11,000 the blow by will be extremly low but its still there.. The oil companies spend millions on research and blend their oils to meet the current sm/4 spec and i dont think you and i can make their formula better by pouring things into the gas and oil, really i don't mean any disrespect.. enjoy your new car that motor will outlast everything else with minimum care
 
Run no additives. Your car is new and running something to fix a problem that does not exist will at best do nothing and may either create a problem or void your warrany or both. Put the money you would spend on additives toward the best fuel, oil, filter and maintenance you can get. Research these things and choose only those products and services that you feel to be the very best. IMO and the opinion of your car's manufacturer that is the best thing you could do. Why would you not trust the schedules and recommendations of multi-billion dollar companies whose business interest it serves to keep your car running perfectly. Obviously they know something about their area of business and the machines they create. If I were in your position, this is what I would do. Once my car got over 100K, I might entertain the use of some 'additive' but only if there was a defined problem and the additive was a known fix.
 
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I have to disagree with the advice given thus far, TomJones76.

Granted, the current SM rated oils will do fine for you for 5k mile oil changes. What did you use in your Sable and what OCIs?

Both posters above me react to additives as though their single purpose is to solve problems. I believe using a 3-ounce maintenance dose of Auto-Rx will result in a cleaner, smoother running engine over a greater period of time than waiting until 100k miles and then trying to "fix things."

Also, using FP-Plus on a regular basis can only help keep your fuel system clean and your car running the way you want it to, again, as opposed to waiting 50 or 100k miles, then trying to clean up the fuel system. While V-Power is good gasoline, if you want to trust the additive packages of fuel sitting at the local gas station (regardless of name brand) over the next 50-100k miles, be my guest.

And I certainly do not believe the auto makers are totally focused on what is best for me as a consumer. Yep, you should follow their specs as to weight and rating (SM) of the oil, as well as the coolant, brake fluid, etc. But their focus is on selling "low or no-maintenance cars" to a public who, in most cases, struggle to find the interior hood release on their car and have no clue as to how to check their fluids or operate a tire pressure gauge. Their maintenance schedule is designed to get you (and everyone else) past the warranty period with a minimal of maintenance.

Good luck with the Elantra.
 
I think it is an excellent time to run a cleaning and rinse with ARX. Alot of heat and friction is generated during the initial ring to cyclinder wall seating. Not knowing how the first 11,000 miles were run and the resulting important break in, I think this deserves some consideration. Why not clean the rings and lans now to remove any deposits that may have formed during the break in. Sets the stage for the most effective break in and optimal performance over the long haul.
 
Originally Posted By: dkryan
I have to disagree with the advice given thus far, TomJones76.

Granted, the current SM rated oils will do fine for you for 5k mile oil changes. What did you use in your Sable and what OCIs?

Both posters above me react to additives as though their single purpose is to solve problems. I believe using a 3-ounce maintenance dose of Auto-Rx will result in a cleaner, smoother running engine over a greater period of time than waiting until 100k miles and then trying to "fix things."

Also, using FP-Plus on a regular basis can only help keep your fuel system clean and your car running the way you want it to, again, as opposed to waiting 50 or 100k miles, then trying to clean up the fuel system. While V-Power is good gasoline, if you want to trust the additive packages of fuel sitting at the local gas station (regardless of name brand) over the next 50-100k miles, be my guest.

And I certainly do not believe the auto makers are totally focused on what is best for me as a consumer. Yep, you should follow their specs as to weight and rating (SM) of the oil, as well as the coolant, brake fluid, etc. But their focus is on selling "low or no-maintenance cars" to a public who, in most cases, struggle to find the interior hood release on their car and have no clue as to how to check their fluids or operate a tire pressure gauge. Their maintenance schedule is designed to get you (and everyone else) past the warranty period with a minimal of maintenance.

Good luck with the Elantra.


dkryan,

Yes, with all due respect to their willingness to help me, I disregarded those first two posts.
I've been reading this forum for 5 years, and I know that FP60 isn't going to cause blowby and I've heard Mr. Dyson note that 6% MPG improvements can be had with gas engines with it, even when they're in good working order. I know enough to know that using a chemistry like Lube Control to minimize oil oxidization is a good idea, and has no real downside.
I also know enough to not ever let on to my dealer that I use any additives, and enough to make sure he never learns that I use them. "Don't ask, don't tell" is a good policy when it comes to auto warranties.

As far as my Sable, I did a bunch of oils, one of which was Mobil 1 EP + LC20 for 23,000 miles. Worked like a champ. [Long story, but basically I was planning on surrendering the car to the bank, so.....]
Also ran a bunch of 3-5K intervals on Pennzoil 5W20.

As far as oils, during the warranty period I'll be in there at the reccomended interval getting the dealer oil/filter. The price isn't bad, surprisingly, it's next to my job and most importantly I'm working two jobs and can save money by having them do it.

I don't intend on doing any work outside of the dealer during the warranty, except perhaps the supplemental oil/ATF changes in case I decide to use Auto-RX. [Which, of course, I'll keep quieter from the dealer than I would an extramarital affair from my wife...]

It doesn't appear any new and worthwhile additives have popped up in the couple of years since I quite following this board.

Finally, thanks for your well-wishing. May your automotive endeavors run smoothly as well.

Anyone else wishing to chime in on:
1. What's the earliest mileage to use Auto-RX at? [I like dkryan's idea of using it NOW, but I'd love to see more advice]
2. Should I do maintenance doses of AutoRX, or maintenance doses of Lube Control?
 
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
if you trade in cars every 5 years, I wouldn't use any additives at all.


Good call.
I don't trade in every 5 years, I just happenned to have a 5-year interval between these two. This was in substantial part due to personal financial concerns, and in another large part due to gas prices; I'd be holding onto the Sable longer if the $4/gal period hadn't convinced me it's not a viable daily driver for me at this point in my life.
My intention is to keep this vehicle, maintain it like mad, and not let it go 'till it goes unreliable on me. The resale stinks on Hyundai, so I didn't get it as a "buy and then dump at end of warranty" vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Rick20
I think it is an excellent time to run a cleaning and rinse with ARX. Alot of heat and friction is generated during the initial ring to cyclinder wall seating. Not knowing how the first 11,000 miles were run and the resulting important break in, I think this deserves some consideration. Why not clean the rings and lans now to remove any deposits that may have formed during the break in. Sets the stage for the most effective break in and optimal performance over the long haul.


Excellent idea. Thank you.
 
Tom,

I understand your position. Thank you for at least reading my response. As people frequently state, I'm sure with the attention we give our vehicles' lubrication and care, whether supplemented with additives or not, they will far outlast their designed lifespan.

I wouldn't worry too much about the 11k on the car - even if the oil had never been changed when you got it (which it probably had been at least once), it probably didn't sustain any appreciable damage. They were the first to offer the standard 100k/10yr. powertrain warranty and that's always made me think of Hyundai's as practically bulletproof. Good call on keeping the dealer in the dark about your choice to use the adds. I use some myself now and again, but when I take it in to the dealer, all they know is that it's Honda fluid in every orifice and nothing else, ever. Congratulations on the new car - may it serve you as well as you serve it!

Matthew
 
Oil's been changed regularly.
When I first saw it, before the dealer prep was over, it still had the OLD oil change sticker from before the guy traded it in; it was from the dealer, and current.

Thanks, Matthew.

On edit:
I guess I should ask Auto-RX directly when they think is a good time for a first treat.
 
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Frank should be able to recommend something. From what I understand there are quite a few different treatment routes one can take with ARX.

I would think that with as few miles as you have, the recommendation might be to run a full dose, then follow the maintenance route for the duration. Apparently, if the maintenance dose is followed with regular OCI there would be no buildup, but I couldn't see the hurt in doing another 'wash and rinse' or whatever every 50K. Just my $.02 - obviously I'm no ARX-pert.
 
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I would save money on additives and instead:

1. Run a good Syn oil between 5-7,000 miles
2. Run a good higher quality filter like M-1 or Napa Gold,
Carquest Blue etc
3. Try magnets on the filter to catch smaller particles the
filter does not catch.

Filtermag.com
 
Running a syn for 5,000 to 7,000 is a total waste of money and you will not be getting any benefits of running the syn oil. Besides running a decent dino oil at 5,000 mile oil change intervals usually has the engine out living the body .
 
A 4 oz maint dose works wonders it is great stuff. Plus it satisfies the need to add something to the oil and actually does something good.
 
Sure you do. You get better performance during the same run period. Look at most of the UOA's. The Syn oil does not necessarily last that much longer than the Dino oils.

Unless some UOA's were done on this vehicle why get crazy?

Most of the Syn Oil makers will not claim extended change intervals. They just claim better performance than dino oil.
They will usually say to follow the manufacturer's schedule.

The "waste" in money is hardly an issue. Most people waste far more money on fast food and latte's than on oil changes.........:)
 
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Not based on results.I spent 23 years working on all sorts of cars, trucks gas diesel and LPG engines mostly forklifts , tractors construction equipment etc. I have seen the insides of many engines . With the GPII/GPII+ oils the insides of the engines looked so good I quit using syn oil if you want to know the truth about it. [if syn oil is recommended by the MFG that is what I would use though] extended oil changes and extreme cold and heat are the benefits of syn oil .
 
SteveS: So are you saying by using SYN oil you don't get:

1. Better flow in cold weather?
2. Better resistance to heat and hence breakdown of oil?
3. Less possibly of deposits formation due to cleaner oil to
begin with and less breakdown?
4. Less oil evaporation/burn off?
 
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Originally Posted By: TomJones76

Anyone else wishing to chime in on:
1. What's the earliest mileage to use Auto-RX at? [I like dkryan's idea of using it NOW, but I'd love to see more advice]
2. Should I do maintenance doses of AutoRX, or maintenance doses of Lube Control?


I started using the maintenance dose on my corolla at 6K miles on the car. I have no issues personally with using it so early, it cant do any harm running it this early so i do it.

If going to do a full application i would wait until 50-75K on the motor then do it, just my opinion. Others will vary!
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
SteveS: So are you saying by using SYN oil you don't get:

1. Better flow in cold weather?
2. Better resistance to heat and hence breakdown of oil?
3. Less possibly of deposits formation due to cleaner oil to
begin with and less breakdown?
4. Less oil evaporation/burn off?

1. It depends how cold it gets. Where Steve and I live, we could probably run 20w-50 year 'round and still be fine.
LOL.gif


2. Unless you are taking your car to Auto-X events or are visiting the track regularly, you'd never see oil temperatures high enough to reap the benefit you mentioned.

3. Cleaner? That's a first for me. If both oils were run for the recommended service interval, I'd doubt that there would be any significant differences in breakdown.

4. In theory yes, but how many people have had their oil consumption reduced significantly with synthetic?
 
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