Ford has been using it in Fusions since 2014 so it's not that new. I wonder if in the case of Rangers if it's a) a really large batch of mediocre batteries like you mention or b) they are undersized for the vehicle.
07 Accord I4 Battery Upgrade: 51R to 35
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
Remember, they're not doing MPG improvement for "my" benefit, they're doing it for their across-the-fleet numbers. Even if it's a 1/4 mpg or at best, 1/2 mpg gain per vehicle, multiply that by a million vehicles per year, they'll take it.
Could also be more aggressive since you're trying to eek out more with a truck than a car?
H7 is the stock battery, so it should be plenty....
I modified my 2016 CR-V to be usable to run a 2200 Watt 120 VAC inverter. I installed a Walmart MAXX 725 CCA 24F that has 130 minutes reserve that I bought new using their online price roll back price of $88.00 + tax.
Got a 2013 Odyssey battery tray and battery cover and use that.
Installed an Apex 350 Amp / 200 Amps at idle (actual pre shipping factory run test showed 180 Amps at idle) alternator that comes stock with a small pulley so it rotates faster. New 7 rib serpentine belt that is 0.3 inches shorter than original that I got from Summit Racing to take up slack because of smaller than original pulley on the new high output alternator. 0 ga. wire doing the big 3 upgrade. Fused at 250 A slow blow 0 ga. through firewall behind glove box, and comes out behind the back of the front passengers seat.
High current low voltage connection comes out behind front passangers seat.
2200 Watt Mean-Well high reliability 120 VAC inverter with less than 3% total harmonic distortion, wired with 0 ga stranded copper and mating high current connector, that can quickly connect to car. Velcro on bottom of inverter to hold it to carpet behind front passangers seat. A hole in the floor that has a cover that allows access for a 12 gauge 100 ft extension cord to connect up to the inverter, so it can supply power to the house furnace and fridge and a few led lights.
The Honda 2.4 L direct injection gasoline engine gets 4 hours to the gallon at idle, after it is warmed up. With the load of the inverter adding extra load to the alternator I figured it'll get about 3 hours to the gallon. The vehicle has a 15.6 gallon tank and I try to keep at least 10 gallons in it in the winter so I should be able to run it for 24 hours or so and then have to run for gas. That's better than having to put gasoline in a generator every four hours doing a big power outage if we ever have another one.
The Mean-Well power inverter cost over $800 but it's very reliable. And zero gauge stranded copper wire is not cheap. Throw in the connectors and the 250 amp fuse and the alternator and the total cost for this upgrade is right around $2,000.
How's that for an upgrade?
Got a 2013 Odyssey battery tray and battery cover and use that.
Installed an Apex 350 Amp / 200 Amps at idle (actual pre shipping factory run test showed 180 Amps at idle) alternator that comes stock with a small pulley so it rotates faster. New 7 rib serpentine belt that is 0.3 inches shorter than original that I got from Summit Racing to take up slack because of smaller than original pulley on the new high output alternator. 0 ga. wire doing the big 3 upgrade. Fused at 250 A slow blow 0 ga. through firewall behind glove box, and comes out behind the back of the front passengers seat.
High current low voltage connection comes out behind front passangers seat.
2200 Watt Mean-Well high reliability 120 VAC inverter with less than 3% total harmonic distortion, wired with 0 ga stranded copper and mating high current connector, that can quickly connect to car. Velcro on bottom of inverter to hold it to carpet behind front passangers seat. A hole in the floor that has a cover that allows access for a 12 gauge 100 ft extension cord to connect up to the inverter, so it can supply power to the house furnace and fridge and a few led lights.
The Honda 2.4 L direct injection gasoline engine gets 4 hours to the gallon at idle, after it is warmed up. With the load of the inverter adding extra load to the alternator I figured it'll get about 3 hours to the gallon. The vehicle has a 15.6 gallon tank and I try to keep at least 10 gallons in it in the winter so I should be able to run it for 24 hours or so and then have to run for gas. That's better than having to put gasoline in a generator every four hours doing a big power outage if we ever have another one.
The Mean-Well power inverter cost over $800 but it's very reliable. And zero gauge stranded copper wire is not cheap. Throw in the connectors and the 250 amp fuse and the alternator and the total cost for this upgrade is right around $2,000.
How's that for an upgrade?
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Your main fuse on the power wire is inside the car?
The zero gauge wire is fused at 250 amps before it leaves the front of the car and travels through the firewall to go towards the back of the front seat.
Gotcha. Had me worried there for a sec.
Note: when doing the shorter serpentine belt upgrade, it is recommended that you use a belt that is half an inch to 1 inch shorter than the original. I tried using a belt that was half an inch shorter, however this belt was also a heavy duty belt which is thicker. That thickness going around the water pump, because the back of the belt rides on the water pump, ended up using up too much of the serpentine belt, and there was no way that belt would go on the car. So I had to get a belt that is shorter than a half inch short from original serpentine belt. That ended up being one that was 0.3 in shorter than the original. If the one that was a half inch shorter than the original was not a heavy duty it probably would have gone on the vehicle.
This was a case where a serpentine belt being heavy duty and thicker than the original ended up causing it to actually be shorter than what it is specified as. This was just one more problem I ran into and doing this, that I did not need.
This was a case where a serpentine belt being heavy duty and thicker than the original ended up causing it to actually be shorter than what it is specified as. This was just one more problem I ran into and doing this, that I did not need.
JHZR2
Staff member
It should! I wonder what it would cost to get off the
I dont know what they all do…
There is coding for AGM vs flooded which obviously woukd change the voltage parameters. There is coding for size, which I assume would more smartly set the maximum charge rate to play with the field coil and voltage regulator to set the overpotential and thus how much current flows in.
I assume the coding of a new battery is just to try to track some amount of nominal capacity loss.
I tbin
Not sure about VAG and Mercedes - BMW as part of their “Efficient Dynamics” marketing-speak, though some truth can be applied as well, the alternator is programmed to charge the battery during deceleration. In a way, like the regenerative braking in a hybrid. I think in many cars, the alternator is “coasting” and not actually charging when the car is moving but at idle speed or when you’re coasting. I could be wrong.
Today? NO! I just now checked on the AAP site(where I make most automotive purchases) and they are both the same price per battery level(Silver-$179, Gold-$209, Platinum-$229, AGM-$239)
Yesterday? YES! In the past, when I have purchased the batteries for my vehicles at AAP or WM, the Group 35 was about $5-$7 more than the Group 24F(larger, more CCA/CA)... Not always but often.
Sadly, AAP doesn't allow any discount codes to be used on batteries. It even highlights this right next to the battery("Excluded from discounts except Speed Perks rewards").
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Just an aside-if you're going to use a Johnson Controls/Clarios battery be sure to use the oil impregnated felt washers under the terminals, so you don't get a nasty surprise underneath all the sprayed on battery protectant (which doesn't stop acid & gases from coming out of their poorly sealed battery posts!).
As long as you can get an East Penn one, NAPA seems to be one of the better places to buy a basic maintenance free non-leaking battery when they are running a usable code. The 35 Proformer I just bought for the Corolla in my sig was $103, the 24F would have been the same. If I had to have a longer warranty then Family Farm & Home (Deka) or Sam's Club (Duracell Gold) would have been better (in the ~$129 range).
I got lucky a few years ago when I bought ours because they did allow them at the time. I bought an H6 AGM which was close to $200 at the time, maybe something like $189. I only paid $140 (I round the number in my records). Looks like I used a 25% code at the time.
I’ve always used grease of some sort, recently RP-342.
But, JCI/Clarios will puke acid via the vent caps as well.
