06 TL timing belt interval question...

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3,756
Location
CA
Does anyone with Honda experience have an opinion on whether or not the 102,000 mile belt replacement is conservative or stretching it? I have 75,000 miles and the majority of them were spent with the engine lugging at 1,900-2,200rpm down the freeway. Some occasional sprints to redline but for the most part rpms are kept below 2,800 in daily city driving. On the flip side it has spent a few summers in Vegas, Phoenix, and Bakersfield so it's seen some hot weather. Should I be conservative and start getting the parts together or should I take it to the full interval? Cost isn't really an issue since I'm doing it myself though if it's a complete waste of money to do it at this mileage I'll wait.
 
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25,046
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ON, Canada eh?
Drive it to 102K Miles and have it changed. Belts are cheap, engines are not, although I think it's a conservative mileage that they tell you! ;\)
 
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355
Location
San Diego, California
I have more Honda experience than I care to admit, so here it goes: 1. I thought it was 105,000 for the full maintenance including Platinum Plugs, valve lash adjustment, and timing belt? 2. Your car is only basically three years old. Not much time for Ozone damage to occur to the quality rubber of the belt. 3. Three years and only 75k means to me you have a long while left on the belt. 4. You have the upgraded belt tensioner assembly. Minimal to no worries of it failing. 5. Wait to 105k and service the car. Drive it normally until then.
 
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14,429
Location
The Old North State
Had my daughters 01 Civic done last summer around 105k, right about what the manual called for. At the rate you're going you'll be under the time frame by the time you hit the miles. IMO, you're good to go with 102k. As said, I believe Honda's recommendation is conservative because of the importance of the service.
 

BuickGN

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3,756
Location
CA
Thank you guys. I'll wait for the 102 or 105,000 mile interval especially considering this engine has probably turned half the total revolutions of a city driven car. Even though I would do the waterpump, tensioner, etc at the same time, it all works now so I guess it's better not to disturb anything. Though if I do end up getting a firm date for a track day at Willow Springs I may go ahead and replace it beforehand.
 
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313
Location
Lugoff, SC
If Honda uses the same belt supplier as Volvo (I believe continental, but I have no information to confirm this), then you can go MUCH longer than 105K. I have customers that just really don't give a [censored] about their cars and will go 150K miles on each belt. Surprisingly...they all seem to make it. I see more tensioners fail on the older cars that have never had a belt, LONG over due for the belt and tensioner to be replaced, before the belt actually snaps. So, in my honest opinion, change it when the book says to. 105K miles (or 10 years, right?)
 
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1,335
Location
Arizona
Just went 126K on a 99 TL. Belt looked great. Car was operated here in Phoenix its entire life and most of the driving consisted of very short intervals. Only every few months did it make it out on the interstate. That being said, I would change it at 102,000 just to be safe. If I remember correctly I believe your 06 is also an interferance motor. Not so nice when the belt breaks! \:\(
 
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1,562
Location
St. Paul, MN
105k is when you should change it. You won't have any problems by waiting until then. You'll probably just need to replace the belt and water pump. Most likely the tensioner and idler pulleys will be reusable, just inspect them closely before buttoning it back up. I recommend using OEM parts, I haven't found an aftermarket belt or water pump that exceeds the original parts in quality. Timing belts breaking are exceedingly rare on Hondas, even on cars that get pushed to 150k+. Replacing the plugs at 105k is a good idea as well. When they come out they'll still look almost new, and probably could last another 105k before giving you problems, but it's a good idea to get a fresh set in for maximum efficiency. Don't mess around with any specialty plugs, use NGK or Denso. Valve adjustment isn't a bad idea around that mileage either, most likely they'll still be within spec, but sometimes the exhaust valves have a tendency to get too tight.
 

BuickGN

Thread starter
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3,756
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CA
 Originally Posted By: AcuraTech
105k is when you should change it. You won't have any problems by waiting until then. You'll probably just need to replace the belt and water pump. Most likely the tensioner and idler pulleys will be reusable, just inspect them closely before buttoning it back up. I recommend using OEM parts, I haven't found an aftermarket belt or water pump that exceeds the original parts in quality. Timing belts breaking are exceedingly rare on Hondas, even on cars that get pushed to 150k+. Replacing the plugs at 105k is a good idea as well. When they come out they'll still look almost new, and probably could last another 105k before giving you problems, but it's a good idea to get a fresh set in for maximum efficiency. Don't mess around with any specialty plugs, use NGK or Denso. Valve adjustment isn't a bad idea around that mileage either, most likely they'll still be within spec, but sometimes the exhaust valves have a tendency to get too tight.
Thanks. It's definately getting OEM parts. Not a place I want to cheap out. I plan on doing water pump, tensioner, and idler. Plugs have been getting replaced at 40,000 mile intervals. Long story but I'm running one heat range colder. I'll definately look into the valve adjustment. I wouldn't worry too much if the exhaust valves tended to loosen up but I don't want any burned valves from being too tight. For the record, the valvetrain is quiet as can be but I guess too tight wouldn't make any noise anyway. This will give me a chance to post pictures under the valvecover of a lifetime on Amsoil ACD.
 
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2,698
Location
Silicon Valley
OM interval is 7 years or 105k, whichever comes first. My CL-S turned nine last month (94k), but the belt looks great. On my old 90 Legend, I changed it at about 110k, and it looked good, just worn in, really. So I'm slowly researching and working up the nerve to tackle it myself. The Helm's book makes it sound so easy, but when you look at the actual space you have to work in, it doesn't look like fun, even if you had small hands. Also on my 90 Legend the old WP looked and felt good as well when it was replaced, so I'm thinking if I do my own TB next time, I'll just leave the old WP until it fails since I'll know how to DIY it.
 
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11,247
Location
PA
I DIYed my B-Series valve adjustment. Tricky, but worth the effort. Now I can re-do it again easily. I wanted to do the TB this summer, but probally will wait a year. At 150k now, had one at 80k. Maybe by that time I won't cheap out and will do the pump as well. I don't loose any coolant yet, so I'm not in a rush.
 
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