06 Suzuki DRZ400SM w/Amsoil MCO

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Aug 3, 2006
Lake Helen, FL
This was the first sample that I had taken on this bike. Bike is primarily ridden on street and gravel fireroads. Oil was Amsoil MCO 10w40. I just recently changed the oil again and let it go to 1500 mi. I am a little worried about the viscosity dropping. Blackstone suggested to do a UOA at 2k and see how the oil held up. Bike has been rejetted and new exhaust system. Bike seems to run a lot smoother after an oil change.

Blackstone labs

mi/hr on oil: 1142
mi/hr on unit: 2261

makeup oil - 0

Aluminum - 13
Chrom - 1
Iron - 20
Copper - 6
Lead - 1
Molybd - 38
Manganese - 1
Silver - 5
Boron - 4
silicon - 7
sodium - 2
calcuim - 2880
Magnesiun - 60
Phosphorous- 1106
Zinc - 1232
Barium - 1
Viscosity - 63.00 (65-76)
Flashpoint - 385
Fuel % - 0.5%
Insolubles - 0.2%

TBN - 9.6
Harley, is the 63.00 an ISO figure? or did you mean 6.3 equaling a 20wt?....TBN looks very good, as well as all the other numbers. Maybe the 0-40 would suit you better?

If it sheared to a twenty weight that's strange. Maybe its a typo. Try another analysis with a different lab. Pablo, Don, Ted, any input?

Try the 20-50 or 60wt? What do you guy's think?

[ August 05, 2006, 12:35 AM: Message edited by: LargeCarMan ]
I believe the units are SUS. It's Blackstone. It didn't shear that much.

In general the oil looks strong and wear metals look OK - but how many miles total on the bike? - This UOA should be compared in series and to other bikes in similar circumstances.

Originally posted by LargeCarMan:
What do you guy's think?

i think he is wasting his money on an oil that can't go 1200 miles. he paid for marketing claims that simply don't hold up (unless it is a harley motor ie. no shared sump tranny).

he'd be WAY ahead on money using SRT or an sae30.

i've yet to see a 10w40 make it in a dirt / dualpurpose bike.

i would be shocked if the susvis is above 60 at the 2k mark.
I think I missed the 2261 total miles on the bike. Second oil change? - wear metals look good.

For someone to pop in and say the oil can't go 1200 miles, well frankly that's poppycock. Yes the oil sheared a bit to a 30 weight. I see no evidence that it's not protecting. Follow Blackstone's advice and go to 2000 miles.
Looks fine for a newer engine and the TBN would indicate very little chemical degradation. Oil thinned out a bit, but that's normal for wet clutch applications.

I think a 2k service interval will be fine....

poppin in?
u got more dirtbike uoa's than me?
send me 3 qts, i'll prove it don't last 4 hours.
tech line says to change it at 5 hours.

iron 20
copper 6


this motor was broke in at 400 miles. (10 hours at 40mph). the susvis is not gonna go up, but down. at 2k it will be 60 or under.
Sure the engine was broke in at 400 miles, but more than half the life of the engine was with this oil, so 20 ppm of Fe is not surprising.

Your comments about wasting money are out of line.
You may have a lot of OA's but I have seen nothing from you that proves you actually have the ability to interpret them.

[ August 06, 2006, 11:44 PM: Message edited by: Pablo ]
Sunruh in your favor I will try rotella 15w40 on the next change since I have a gallon left over from my diesel. But until I see my last sample at 1500 miles I am sticking with amsoil. The sustained viscosity at 210 degrees should of been 65-76, but was 63. I appreciate your guys input and I am no expert, but thought the sample turned out pretty good.
i can't wait to see a uoa on SRT from your bike.
the savings will pay for the uoa.

4th change. hmmmmmmmmm.
Harley, with the diesel oil you will be reducing clutch life if the engine oil is shared with the clutch unit. Just food for thought! Soft dollars vs. Hard dollars...
Anyone else have an analysis on a Suzuki DRZ400SM? What is the history of this engine? How hard does this application shear oils?

I know nothing of diesel oil being hard on the clutch.

Just lobing rocks and switching oils may be fine for some, but I think some logic should be applied to all UOA's. Typically there is some knowledge of the engine and application, some series of UOA's to see a trend, etc.

For example - the previous oil could have had 80 ppm Fe, now this oil is 20, next oil (whatever brand) 8 ppm - so that last oil is glorified. The process needs to be fair and unbiased.

Harley - I'm glad you'll be doing a UOA at 1.5K.
Large car man, when you say Diesel oil, do you mean Heavy Duty oil? Rotella 15-40 and Delo 15-40 HDEO's both perform great in wet clutch motorcycles. Well, let's define "great". They shift well, don't hurt the clutch pack, and last for 1200-1500 miles before shearing to the point I change them out. Have a Honda with 85000 miles on it with original clutch working fine.
I will quote my Yamaha manual:

"In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oil with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "Energy conserving II" or higher."

In my research on this very subject, I have found that a certain amount of "Friction" needs to take place in the clutch pack. Thus, JASO was created to help engine owners buy the correct fluid. Jaso MA.

Also to address the UOA with Higher Iron and other properties, I will quote OAI Oil Analyzers guidebook:

"When equipment is new, intial break in wear rates will be higher. When equipment is reaching the end of its service life internal rates of wear will also increase. The amount of time or miles on the oil reflects the level of wear metals present in the sample."

This is why a trend with miles needs to be done. In the beginning of the life of an engine, the wear metals will be higher than normal. During the life of the engine, wear will remain consistant...at the end of the engine life the wear starts to increase until the end of the life of the engine/component.

Originally posted by Pablo:
Typically there is some knowledge of the engine and application

which you have none of.

not only have i ridden a drz400s, but i've help tear one motor apart and rebuild it.

this isn't the 1st uoa where amsoil motorcycle specific didn't hold up. actually, it is 5 for 5 on shearing out of grade.
I put 40,000 miles on one of them engines, for street 1500 to 2000 mile changes is fine. after 5,000 miles the oil filters run pretty clean and and you can cut your expence and labor every other change, with just new oil.

pushing 2000+ miles I'd go with 20w50 grade.
LargeCarMan, feel free to quote your owner's manual, but the actual experience of hundreds of thousands of riders, across a wide variety of wet clutch motorcycles, shows that diesel oils are great for motorcycles.

Also, please refer to my previous posts regarding the marketing nature of the JASO certification.
That's all I can do Blake, I have not owned 4 strokes ever except for my current ATV 350 Yamaha. I have alway's been a 2 Stroke motorcycle owner. Thanks for the information. I will search for your previous posts.

Could you post the JASO information here?

[ August 09, 2006, 08:15 PM: Message edited by: LargeCarMan ]
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