'06 Mazda 6 Pennz. Ultra 5w20 12.8k miles

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ericthepig

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This fill went in first wkend of July 2010. Application is 95% wife hauling kids everywhere in West Little Rock, AR.

Sump capacity - 4.2 qts

1/2 qt top off (w/ PU 5w20) in late January.

Wix Air Filter (from Amsoil) on it's second year of duty.
Wix Oil Filter (cartridge from Amsoil).

Blackstone mentioned possible coolant leak on previous UOA as well. I've chked coolant level - must be a very slow leak if any. (?)

Car gets 1-2 oz MMO in gas at least once/month.

Thanks for any input - here goes -

oilreport-1.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Previous UOA (11.17k) was on M1 0w20. Zero top off that time (oil was still on the full line at the end).



Interesting.... i wonder if the PU naturally burned off or something else was at play. Hmmmm.
 
Looks really good - you found your sweet spot at about 12.5k.

with no potassium, I'd say there is no coolant leak. But I don't know where the Na came from - all oils you have used (M1 Schaeffers, PU) don't use Na as an additive.....
 
Eric,the oil capacity of your engine is 4.5 quarts. With silicon a bit high and a questionable coolant leak, It would be safer to lower your OCI to 10K.
 
Big thanks for sharing this. It looks like PU is great in your application. I don't know about you, but the silicon with respect to how long the oil was in service and the wear metals present, wouldn't really have me worried.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Billy007
Eric,the oil capacity of your engine is 4.5 quarts. With silicon a bit high and a questionable coolant leak, It would be safer to lower your OCI to 10K.


Gads! you're right. I just looked at the owners manual - it's 4.3 L (liters). I must've glanced at the # back when I got it and missed the "L". Answers the question on why it was taking a bit more to hit the full line. Thanks!

I was hoping this would be my last UOA for 2 or 3 yrs. Don't like parting with $35. The yellow flags that Blackstone raised may get me to UOA again in a year. (?)

Currently running a flush of ST dino & 3/4 qt Neutra. Next OCI will likey be similar - 10 months (mid July thru mid May - 13k'ish) - basically want a top shelf Synth in it all the way thru the grueling school year. And I like running the summer flushes - gives me a hands on fill to this hobby of mine - and makes me at least think I'm keeping it all clean in there.

I was open to other oils depending on the results of this UOA. But I think PU has proven itself here. Yes it's just single run UOAs, but I like the #'s compared to M1 0w20. Hoping they get PU 0w20 at Wally's before mid-July.
 
Trouble - I've got a coolant leak. Chked the level (while hot) just now - had to add about 12 oz water to get back to full line. Is this a head gasket problem? Is this expensive? Can I limp it along by chging the oil more often and keep the coolant full?
frown.gif
 
I had a final post that apparently didn't post - so this may be a repeat.

This is apparently a VERY slow leak. Last topped of the coolant probably over 1 yr ago - and not by too much then.

I may just stay with my original OCI plan and keep an eye on the coolant, the dip stick, and do drop tests on the oil until a UOA at the end.
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Trouble - I've got a coolant leak. Chked the level (while hot) just now - had to add about 12 oz water to get back to full line. Is this a head gasket problem? Is this expensive? Can I limp it along by chging the oil more often and keep the coolant full?
frown.gif



You "could" limp it around and who knows, it might take a while before something bad happens but it could also become a serious problem about 50 miles down the road and then you're toast.
 
I'm going to run the PU 5w20 in my 04' Mazda6 for about the same amount of time, but probably a little less miles than yours, and see what happens. The big difference on my 6 is i only have about half the mileage you have (42k), and i have the V6 which has a sump of almost 6 qts.
I would definitely keep an eye on that coolant in your case.
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Trouble - I've got a coolant leak. Chked the level (while hot) just now - had to add about 12 oz water to get back to full line. Is this a head gasket problem? Is this expensive? Can I limp it along by chging the oil more often and keep the coolant full?
frown.gif



They weren't sure if it was from the oil or the head gasket. I'd try using oil that doesn't contain sodium and seeing how the level is. Also inspect the coolant hoses in the car, thermostat & thermostat housing seals and the water pump seal, if nothing is leaking there then it's most likely the head gasket.

Head gasket replacements are expensive. Around 500-600 from an independent mechanic to about $1,000 from a dealer (in my area). It is not a difficult DIY job though (for non-catastrophic failures, and yours is not a catastrophic failure). The reason it costs a lot is because it takes a lot of time. Not sure what kind of tools you have but you'd need an impact wrench, impact hex bits (I twisted off an impact rated hex bit on an engine that head gasket blew due to overheating from a catastrophic cooling system failure), and uh... a bunch of degreaser :p. Head gasket will cost you about $40. You'd also want to replace the cylinder head screws as they stretch and should not be re-used. Those will also cost you about $40.

You can limp the car around, sometimes head gasket leaks progress so slowly that it's almost irrelevant. Some go from leaking to catastrophic failure. It's really impossible to diagnose which of those without seeing the head gasket, but I'd record the coolant use and see if it increases. If it's increasing, then replace that gasket ASAP. If you plan on keeping the car though, it is my recommendation to get the head gasket fixed if that is the problem.

Edit: I forgot to say you'd also need a torque wrench to properly torque the bolts when reassembling.
 
Here are Blackstones notes on the previous UOA (M1 0w20 - this was done after receiving the car - previous owner ran Pennz YB). I had two short runs of Schaeffer 7000 after the M1 and before this PU.


"Note sodium. Chances are good it's leftover additive from when Pennzoil was in use, but it could also be a trace of antifreeze. Keep an eye on coolant level."

More brooding on my coolant loss - I'm not sure ~12oz in over a year (and a lot of miles) should be defined as a leak. (?)
 
coolant in the oil = increased wear: bearings, cams, rings etc. The longer you put it off, the more damage is being done--every mile you drive it
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
coolant in the oil = increased wear: bearings, cams, rings etc. The longer you put it off, the more damage is being done--every mile you drive it


Not too worried (yet). I had trace sodium in 11k almost two years ago. Followed by two intermediate OCI runs. Now I have a bit more trace sodium in 13k miles (w/ very low wear #'s).

My methodology that will change going forward - I'll be chking oil quality on the dipstick (and then oil drop tests later in the OCI), and I'll chk coolant level and quality - will chk these issues frequently. Also, had planned to skip a year or two on UOAs, but will now likely go yearly. Mazda has 85k miles - thus I'm also going to uptic my use of MMO in the fuel a bit.

This next year will accumulate miles more quickly (oldest child will be at a different (significantly further away) Jr. High).

My brooding between now and July - to run reasonable OCIs, or take PU for another long run. I may be comfortable with the later given my monitoring.
 
you should try adding bars leak head gasket fix to your coolant..maybe 1/4 to a 1/2 dose..that will probably take care of the coolant leak.
 
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