06 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l MC 5w-20+MMO 3k

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Attached is my first used oil analysis, and of course, something isn't right. It appears that I have more copper than normal? Blackstone says that the brass/bronze parts left more metals behind. Here are the results: 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7L V8
Code:
OIL             Motorcraft 5w20 + Marvel Mystery oil
MILES IN USE    3k    
MILES           84k 
SAMPLE TAKEN    8/1/14 

                         UNV AVG

ALUMINUM        2        4        
CHROMIUM        0        1        
IRON            3        17      
COPPER          7        3       
LEAD            0        1      
TIN             0        1        
MOLYBDENUM      15       76       
NICKEL          1        1        
MANGANESE       0        0        
SILVER          0        0        
TITANIUM        0        1        
POTASSIUM       1        2      
BORON          49        42       
SILICON         3        9        
SODIUM         25        57      
CALCIUM        1786      2156     
MAGNESIUM      14        159      
PHOSPHORUS     738       724    
ZINC           669       864     
BARIUM          0        1

TBN:  3.7
When taking the sample, I didnt send enough. You have to send the WHOLE bottle not just HALF crazy So no fuel results this time... How do these results look to you guys?
 
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If you want to use MMO, start with Motorcraft 5w30, since MMO is a very very light oil. I don't see any wear problems in the oil, although 3,000 miles is a pretty short invterval for that oil in that engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: jk_636
It appears that I have more copper than normal? Blackstone says that the brass/bronze parts left more metals behind.
Did Blackstone specifically note it as a concern or just something to monitor? I admit I have not studied Dave Newton's article in depth, but I don't see a major issue on one set of data points. With respect to running a 20 weight, what does your OM recommend? What is your objective in adding MMO? http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/ Kevin
 
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Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
Originally Posted By: jk
+ Marvel Mystery oil
BTW, some insights on MMO here: Kevin
Yep. You don't need MMO in a 2006 4.7. Just a good synthetic Xw20 as specified in the owner's manual. 4.7s develop a boatload of oil pressure on 20-weights. They know what they are doing when they recommend 5w20 in the manual.
 

jk_636

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Originally Posted By: Rosetta
A thin 5w20 + MMO in a heavy V8 truck? I have to admit that you have some bolls!
It is just a daily driver that is never rode hard and only carries air in the bed. I think that I have pulled a friends boat twice with it.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you want to use MMO, start with Motorcraft 5w30, since MMO is a very very light oil. I don't see any wear problems in the oil, although 3,000 miles is a pretty short invterval for that oil in that engine.
I have always run 3k mile oil changes. Now that I have been studying the vast amount of information here, I am looking into extended my OCI.
Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
Originally Posted By: jk_636
It appears that I have more copper than normal? Blackstone says that the brass/bronze parts left more metals behind.
Did Blackstone specifically note it as a concern or just something to monitor? I admit I have not studied Dave Newton's article in depth, but I don't see a major issue on one set of data points. With respect to running a 20 weight, what does your OM recommend? What is your objective in adding MMO? http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis-how-to-decide-what-is-normal/ Kevin
I have always used Marvel (with good results) in my engine and gasoline. My manual calls for 5-30 but I bounce back and forth experimenting with 5-20 and 5-30. I cant say I have ever used one exclusively over another. Blackstone just said to monitor it with future analysis.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
Originally Posted By: jk
+ Marvel Mystery oil
BTW, some insights on MMO here: Kevin
Yep. You don't need MMO in a 2006 4.7. Just a good synthetic Xw20 as specified in the owner's manual. 4.7s develop a boatload of oil pressure on 20-weights. They know what they are doing when they recommend 5w20 in the manual.
As previously mentioned the manual wants 5-30 but I bounce around with 5-20 and 5-30. You are right, it does build an amazing amount of pressure with 20 weight though! Once I finish this final run of Mobil 5000 I plan on switching to Mobil 1 and a good synthetic media filter. As far as the Marvel goes, I will keep using it in my vehicle due to the good results I have had with it in the past. I wasn't trying to make this a Marvel good, marvel bad discussion though, its just what I use and works for me.
 

jk_636

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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Does your uoa have the viscosity listed?
SUS Viscosity @ 210F: 51.4 (should be 48-58) cSt Viscosity @ 100C: 7.69 (should be 6.7-9.9) Thanks for all the responses so far!
 
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Truck Specs 30 but your running 20 with MMO, why? Have a pickup for daily driver? Towed with twice & air in bed? So you going to keep using MMO because good results, what's that mean? At 3k miles copper double avg. what's avg mileage based off of? For extending oci use a 30 grade, keep MMO in gas tank if you can't stop yourself from using.
 
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This looks like a pretty clean UOA. You might be better served with 5W-30 and I'd skip the MMO. JMHO
 
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What do you mean when you say that you have had good results with MMO? Why are you thinning out an already thin oil with it? What are you trying to do to the Motorcraft by adding it? It's thinning out the oil and further diluting the addatives, but what specific benefit are you looking for?
 
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You cannot just flat compare the univ avg vs your number. The univ avg they provide is for xxxx miles. They normally tell you. You need to do some math and figure out the PPM per 1K miles and then compare. You did the UOA at 3K miles, pretty low mileage for a UOA. Copper is never good in the oil and unless you have an oil cooler, something is wearing a little. But without lead being elevated, its only something to keep your eye on, not worry. Forget the MMO.
 

jk_636

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Originally Posted By: Donald
Copper is never good in the oil and unless you have an oil cooler, something is wearing a little.
I do have an oil cooler. I never thought about that being the culprit. It looks like only time will tell. The next few UOA should be more helpful
 
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Hello jk and welcome to the land of many opinions. Most of them have some merit. My 2cents is that you follow your manual and use a good quality 5w30 and leave out the MMO. There is a recent thread by Molecule in which he had his grad students determine what is in the oil. You should read it. The MMO will not do anything to that high quality 5w30 that is really beneficial to the engine. So you really do not need it. Save that money and spend it on some good beer instead. Much more satisfying. And as far as used oil analysis goes, my opinion is to save your money on that, spend it on a high quality, not meaning necessarily expensive, oil and change it according to your owner manual. There you got it another opinion and enjoy the different opinnions and the readings here. The key point is that you learn, maybe alter, and have good long engine life. And by the way. Read some of the Petroleum Quality Institute of America analyses. Always a good read. Have a nice engine. Bob
 
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Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: Donald
Copper is never good in the oil and unless you have an oil cooler, something is wearing a little.
I do have an oil cooler. I never thought about that being the culprit. It looks like only time will tell. The next few UOA should be more helpful
You need a few to do any trending analysis, one by itself really means little. Copper is present in many newer engines due to assembly lubes, sealers, etc., not just oil coolers. But in our fleet the oil cooler is done shedding any copper by 80k miles for sure...
 

jk_636

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Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
the only real thing you have to worry about is how notorious the 4.7 is for self destructing. good luck.
I guess im not familiar with these engines "self destructing." The magnum engine has been around for years, and aside from being slightly underpowered has always been very reliable...
 
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