maybe you should try GC on your next oil change!
06 Civic SI - PP 5w30 -10.3k on oil, 77k on engine
- Thread starter JoeFromPA
- Start date
- Status
Thanks Addy. I too was surprised by the shear.....PP is not typically known as a shearing oil unless, of course, it's fuel diluted. I've seen it run in a number of Subaru 2.5 turbos for 5k or longer without shearing, which is a far more shear-prone environment than this engine (in my mind).
One thing that really impressed me was the K&N. I literally spent over 20 minutes cleaning it out prior to this OCI. I kid you not, entire oak leaves and twigs and stuff were falling out of it. It took 20 minutes before the water wasn't running dirty, and to give into each of the pleats sufficiently.
After removing all that [censored], I expected the flow to increase and the filtration to go down. But it's showin less than 1 PPM of Silicon per 1000 miles. I was honestly really surprised by this.
One thing that really impressed me was the K&N. I literally spent over 20 minutes cleaning it out prior to this OCI. I kid you not, entire oak leaves and twigs and stuff were falling out of it. It took 20 minutes before the water wasn't running dirty, and to give into each of the pleats sufficiently.
After removing all that [censored], I expected the flow to increase and the filtration to go down. But it's showin less than 1 PPM of Silicon per 1000 miles. I was honestly really surprised by this.
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
I'm not slamming you, but it really bothers me when some owners think they know the car better than the manufactor who spends millions of dollars on engineering and testing.
all those millions and the dipstick doesn't read right?
I'm not slamming you, but it really bothers me when some owners think they know the car better than the manufactor who spends millions of dollars on engineering and testing.
all those millions and the dipstick doesn't read right?
Oh man, I've been waiting for this UOA!! Just goes to show that PP is another great performing oil!
So what are your long term plans now? Sticking with the PP?
My manual states that 4.6Q is needed for a fill in my K20A3, but it only shows as half on the dipstick. Need a full 5Q to get it up to the line.
So what are your long term plans now? Sticking with the PP?
My manual states that 4.6Q is needed for a fill in my K20A3, but it only shows as half on the dipstick. Need a full 5Q to get it up to the line.
I know shearing isn't the best thing for oil, but its not so disastrous for this engine as it may be in other cases. Some of the other variants of the k20 actually use a 20 weight oil.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Hoosier_Daddy
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
I'm not slamming you, but it really bothers me when some owners think they know the car better than the manufactor who spends millions of dollars on engineering and testing.
all those millions and the dipstick doesn't read right?
Maybe the aren't calibrated properly and just hit the market that way [mass production]? Honda makes a great engine so I really wouldn't sweat it, but would like to see the dipstick read properly.
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
I'm not slamming you, but it really bothers me when some owners think they know the car better than the manufactor who spends millions of dollars on engineering and testing.
all those millions and the dipstick doesn't read right?
Maybe the aren't calibrated properly and just hit the market that way [mass production]? Honda makes a great engine so I really wouldn't sweat it, but would like to see the dipstick read properly.
It also shows that the K&N air filter doesn't toast engines when "properly installed" like some would like us to believe.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Quote:
Johnny - Rotella T Synthetic and many other modern oils aren't billed as long-drain, but show fine after 10k. Considering the plethora of oils out there that now need to run 10k intervals on the engines stock OLM, I'm guessing that most modern SM-rated synthetics can easily do longer drains.
RTS is an extended drain oil. No serious diesel owner would use it otherwise. It's not quite double the cost of it's alternatives in the environment it's designed for. They have to get that added utility out of it ..or they're losing money. Now in a gas engine, you may not get to manage that pure economic trade off since it's not a direct shift from an OEM approved conventional to an OEM approved synthetic. YMMV.
Your recommendation is 10k (minus a MM) on any SM/GF4 oil. It also appears to put a beat down on the oil that the engine doesn't seem to acknowledge in any measurable way.
Most OEM recommendations are ...hmm..I don't want to use the word conservative. They sensible outside of something like an OLM. It's obvious that the service(able) boundaries aren't that distinctly defined.
So, a conventional or synthetic oil that isn't SPECIFICALLY designated as intended for extended drain will get a YMMV longevity based on what they're subjected to.
M1 0w-40 hasn't got a published extended drain bone in its body. It's got OEM approvals that happen to be extended drains by our standards. M1 EP does, yet has absolutely no OEM approvals to go the 15k/1year that it boldly advertises.
The composite view that I've tried to depict above is hard for some to wrap around in one package.
Johnny - Rotella T Synthetic and many other modern oils aren't billed as long-drain, but show fine after 10k. Considering the plethora of oils out there that now need to run 10k intervals on the engines stock OLM, I'm guessing that most modern SM-rated synthetics can easily do longer drains.
RTS is an extended drain oil. No serious diesel owner would use it otherwise. It's not quite double the cost of it's alternatives in the environment it's designed for. They have to get that added utility out of it ..or they're losing money. Now in a gas engine, you may not get to manage that pure economic trade off since it's not a direct shift from an OEM approved conventional to an OEM approved synthetic. YMMV.
Your recommendation is 10k (minus a MM) on any SM/GF4 oil. It also appears to put a beat down on the oil that the engine doesn't seem to acknowledge in any measurable way.
Most OEM recommendations are ...hmm..I don't want to use the word conservative. They sensible outside of something like an OLM. It's obvious that the service(able) boundaries aren't that distinctly defined.
So, a conventional or synthetic oil that isn't SPECIFICALLY designated as intended for extended drain will get a YMMV longevity based on what they're subjected to.
M1 0w-40 hasn't got a published extended drain bone in its body. It's got OEM approvals that happen to be extended drains by our standards. M1 EP does, yet has absolutely no OEM approvals to go the 15k/1year that it boldly advertises.
The composite view that I've tried to depict above is hard for some to wrap around in one package.
K&N is not hated as an engine killer. I had one for a long time but that was on an off raod vechile where filtration was not as important as flow and the ability not to plug up with tons of sand under the hood. I knew going in I was comprimiseing filtration. The problem with K&N and other like products is that they are unpredicatable. Youcan do everything right and get poor resultsone oil change and great results the next. When trying to maximize engine life filtration trumps flow when talking about air filtration. Few modern applications gain any significant HP with more free breathing filter because the OEM have designed the OEM filter with more capacity then a stock engine can use. This is due to emission laws and CAFE more then anything else.o even if you gain 9hp it almost always peak HP not across the power band or at the bottem where it could be most used. So why give up any level of consistency with reguard for air filtration for such megargains in HP? If I lost 70lbs of fat my car would perform just like it gained 10HP but it would be across the entire power band and the handling would improve and the fuel ecconomy. So loseing weight either on your person or from the car itself does far more good then a K&N.
- Status
