06 Civic SI - 14.5k UOA on AMSOIL SSO 0w30

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joe,

My RS4 running RLI Biosyn went through 1.5 quarts in 10K miles on one run, and 3/4 quarts in 5K miles on another. The 10K run had 4 days of track time, over two weekends at Watkins Glen and Mont Tremblant, with the engine at full throttle for a total of 6 hours.

The engine fuel dilutes like crazy (1.5% to 3%) and carries away oil with the fuel. In some cases, with some oils, the oil level remains constant, because the oil is exchanged with fuel. I saw that with Motul 8100 Etech 0W-40, as viscosity dropped like a stone.
 
Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
I'll stick with a 5w and not step up to 10w, as I don't think this particular engine likes heavier cold viscosities (could be wrong). Though my reading of volatility (including RLI oils) seems to indicate that volatility is not distinctly driven by the viscosity spread....and that a 0w30 can have lower volatility than a 5 or 10w30. Maybe I'm taking one number to mean more than it does.


The thing to look at IMO in multi viscosity oils is the viscosity index (VI).

There are multiple methods which use NOACK volatility. Be careful of what is claimed, since the standards used are different. A much better way of determining the quality of the oil and add pack is through deposit testing. Thermal oxidation testing (TEOST) is an especially good indicator in this regard. Unfortunately, most oils do not report TEOST test numbers.

You misread what I said. Let me repeat, if the same base oil and additive technology is used, it is a fact that a 5W-30 oil will have lower volatility and deposit formation than a 0W-30 oil. The reason for this is the requirement for a higher percentage of lower weight base stock in the 0W oil. Lower molecular weight oil has higher volatility. But ... it is absolutely possible for a 0W oil that is better built, with better base stock to be less volatile and have lower deposit formation than 5W or 10W oils. Amsoil SSO seems to be a very good oil in this regard.
 
Quote:
A much better way of determining the quality of the oil and add pack is through deposit testing. Thermal oxidation testing (TEOST) is an especially good indicator in this regard. Unfortunately, most oils do not report TEOST test numbers.


Yep. Another reason why I have thought for some time Mobil 1 is a very good oil. Keeps the rings clean and deposit free. Scores very well on the TEOST test.

This is something oil analysis will not pick up AFAIK.
 
Quick update: It's been over 3000 miles since my change. I just checked my oil (it's been over 4 hours since it was last driven and is sitting in a parking lot with a very slight incline, but which has proven consistent with past readings).

The engine has consumed, maybe, 1/6th of a quart of oil. It has definitely slowed consumption, which has been consistent with the past when it slowed down between changes of AMSOIL oils.

I don't know why, but my engine appears to be getting more consistent and lower oil consumption as it ages. At this rate, I'd expect consumption to be, maybe, 1 quart every 10000 miles (going conservative here). This is based upon only 3000 miles since the last change, so we'll see.

Now the question is: If my consumption really drops that much, do I run the SSO for 15k miles again? Last time it had 60% of the sump replaced with refresh oil between changes and the TBN wasn't exactly sky high.

I think 14-15k will still be safe, but it won't be as clear cut as with 1 quart every 5000 miles worth of consumption.

If this continues, I'll be sticking with SSO.

Joe
 
Why not pull a little oil at, say, 10k BEFORE you add any make up oil and have it evaluated? That will tell you gobs about how the SSO is faring in your vehicle, because the results won't be tainted with any new oil.
 
FYI - I'm a little below the 5k mark on my engine and added about .75 quarts of SSO. Consumption was very low for about 3000-4000 miles after the oil change, and then seemed to increase as I checked it cold this morning and it was down .25 quarts since my last check.

Also, SSO in the past has stayed very clean on my dipstick for quite some time (i.e. after 10k it still looked like amber). This time, before 5k, it appears amber on the outside and blackish in the middle. The air filter is the same (K&N and uncleaned in, now, 20k miles) but the oil filter is a Purolator PureOne this time instead of a AMSOIL EaO.

I just did a 200 mile drive on Monday of this week with average speeds in the 80s and a few runs up into the 90s for several miles. Definitely been exercising the right foot judiciously.
 
Originally Posted By: harry j
The EAO filter will keep your oil cleaner than the Purolater filter, as you've already noticed.


The filter test by one of the members here using particulate count lends credence to the idea that the M1 filter does a better job than the EAO; at least over short intervals....
 
I just hate the size of the M1 filters. They are so small compared to the filters i'm used to, at least on my applications.
 
If word of the original UOA gets out to the Air Filters forum, the K&N Hate Posse will slay you.
43.gif
 
I know, I know. I think K&Ns filter pretty darn well and are a good choice....but you need to get some miles on them. People who clean them every 5k are going to get higher silicon. But even this 15k run was on a freshly cleaned K&N. Silicon was very controlled.
 
I had no troubles from my K&N until I got so many cleanings on it. I just think that the gauze wears out. Everyone thinks they're "exceeding the need" by cleaning them more often than recommended ..but I think that they're actually doing damage to them that ultimately results in them being junk.
 
Agreed. I just think they are reusuable oil filters that MIGHT flow better sometimes, but mostly are just high quality robust filter construction.

Joe
 
"Once there, I accelerate from redlights by shifting at 4500-5000 rpms in normal driving. A few trips to redline a day for the most part."

Why?

It is a Honda Civic SI .... so not an expensive car, not too fast either. It is becase the "SI" letters are on the car that you choose to drive in this way?

Don't get me wrong, I like to drive fast and have many tickets to prove as much, but why waste the gas and your engine for what you are describing as "Normal" driving?

If you come up on a light and want to have fun with whoever is next to you, great. But again, no need to drive in that manner the whole day, each and everyday.
 
Hondaman,

I'm not sure if you've driven a 06+ Civic SI (or an 05-06 RSX Type S). My final drive ratio is, IIRC, 4.56. My gearing is extremely short. Shifting at 3k leads me to, literally, shift every 1-2 seconds from 1st, to 2nd, to 3rd.

Shifting at 4500-5000 rpms isn't even racing. I usually keep up with minivans that way. This isn't a fast car....it's a car that needs to be driven hard to be quick. And it was made for being driven hard.

I do a few trips to redline for my personal enjoyment, as Honda tuned this engine to have a magical cam switchover at 5800 rpms and the sound becomes glorious from there to 8000 rpms.

FYI, at 7800 RPMs (power peak) I am making as much horsepower as a BMW 335i is at 3500 rpms. Would you consider a BMW 335i driver shifting at 3500 rpms to be racing? Probably not.

Lastly....my car gets the same mileage regardless of how I drive it (well, if I drive it ultra conservatively or the way I described, it still always gets between 28-30mpg). So I'm not wasting anything there. And my driving habits obviously aren't "wasting my engine", as you describe, seen by my oil analyses.

So what was your point exactly?
 
Originally Posted By: HondaMan
It is a Honda Civic SI .... so not an expensive car, not too fast either. It is becase the "SI" letters are on the car that you choose to drive in this way?

Don't get me wrong, I like to drive fast and have many tickets to prove as much, but why waste the gas and your engine for what you are describing as "Normal" driving?

If you come up on a light and want to have fun with whoever is next to you, great. But again, no need to drive in that manner the whole day, each and everyday.

Ah, condescending lectures that only expose the ignorance of the lecturer. I'd find this more amusing if I hadn't done it myself before.

Hondaman, the Civic Si is plenty quick on the street when it's driven properly, and its engine is made to rev all day long. All engines have a range in which they are most efficient; the Civic Si's is higher than most, so Joe is driving it accordingly. He's not wasting anything. I would highly suggest reading about the car and maybe even taking a test drive (if you can drive stick) for your education.
 
Wow, we're getting OT here...but-

My DD beater/rusty Volvo S70 T5 lays the smack down on every Si and RSX I meet. Nothing gives me satisfacton like putting a bus on some kid in my 4000lb Swedish family car. They then feel the need to blast past me in the a-typical "fly by"

Don't even get me started about my MR2
wink.gif


OT: I'm also a big fan of SSO 0W-30, however none of my cars slurp it down like your K20 rig :X
 
Last edited:
My (sold) 95 volvo 850 turbo would also eat my SI :)

The SI is not a fast car in a straight line. I'm aiming for my next car to be quite a bit quicker....

I noticed something about the "fly-bys"....sometimes the faster driver slows down to the speed limit after their race, and the "ricer" stays 10-15 mph over. Fly-bys are when they going full throttle past you :)

Joe
 
Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
My (sold) 95 volvo 850 turbo would also eat my SI :)

The SI is not a fast car in a straight line. I'm aiming for my next car to be quite a bit quicker....

I noticed something about the "fly-bys"....sometimes the faster driver slows down to the speed limit after their race, and the "ricer" stays 10-15 mph over. Fly-bys are when they going full throttle past you :)

Joe


I was turning into Canadian Tire and had a fly-by happen a few years ago. I was driving down one of our larger 4-lane roads and burped the throttle on a down-shift and put on my left signal to turn into Canadian Tire. As I'm doing this, some kid in a Civic comes peeling out of McDonalds, balls-to-the-wall just rowing the gears....

So I'm in the turning lane, slowing down and he's roaring by me screaming YEAH!!!!! out his window like he apparently just beat me in a race of some sort. Some people's kids......
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
2015 Toyota 2.5L 2AR-FE M1 AFE 0W-30 ~8000 miles ish UOA
Replies
10
Views
889
fantastic
H
2003 Civic 179k mi // M1 EP HM 5W30 3.5k mi
Replies
5
Views
430
fantastic
R
2021 Civic. 8k Oil Change. Severe fuel dilution.
2 3 4
Replies
64
Views
3K
Speedy3861
michael007
Mobil 1 AFE 0W30, 5074 miles, 2016 Honda HR-V
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
michael007
R
Castrol Edge 5W-50 UOA after 4 hours on the track in a Mustang GT
Replies
10
Views
975
RevvCats
Back
Top