'04 Tacoma A/C Compressor

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The bearings are making quite a bit of noise, verified using a mechanic stethoscope. Locking up would result in replacing the belt, dryer, refrigerant, vacuum, etc. I would think that it would be better to fix now. Of course, why couldn't the belt just be removed until it is fixed thwarting potential disaster? An A/C compressor for the subject vehicle is $1,000 (originally $1,250) from a local stealership. I'll call a couple more tomorrow, but a few questions. 1) Any online OEM places that should be checked? What other brands are considered excellent or is this an instance where OEM is the best bet? RockAuto has been checked. ACDelco is $468.79 + $38.50 (core) = $507.29 with 1 week lead-time. It is a reman with 10PA15L. What is 10PA15L? Four Seasons is $332.79 + $46.67 (core) = $379.46. I've never heard of this brand. It is a reman with clutch. 2) Can these be rebuilt or are rebuild kits not available? Should I be looking at just bearings or seal as well? Can the bearings be sourced from industrial supply houses like McMaster, Grainger, MSC, etc.? However, I don't feel this is something I could do w/o the refrigerant recovery machine, etc. 3) Are there any other parts that should be replaced when R&R the compressor? What's the correct procedure? 4) Root cause analysis is the most important question since this doesn't need to occur again. I believe it to be from an over-tensioned belt. I did the timing belt job a month or so ago in a mechanic's garage with him looking over me ensuring everything was good. However, I didn't know how to set the belt tension (3 belts total), so he did that. This seems highly likely but totally unprovable, which is fine since solving the problem & preventing its recurrence is the main goal of the exercise. a) Is this over-tensioned belt scenario highly likely? If not, what would you estimate to be the root cause failure? The pickup has 160k miles. b) How should the belts be properly tensioned? How do mechanics typically set the belt tension? Thank you.
 
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If it is the bearings failing due to belt tension, all you need to replace is the clutch, which contains the belt end bearing. In this case the refrigerant system is not affected, so even if you replaced the whole thing at a later date there would be no system contamination. I've not had good luck with 4 seasons (one of, if not THE largest remanufacturer).
 

benjamming

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The bearings are causing the noise. It still cools fine. You say to stay away from rebuilt but is reman ok? I couldn't imagine how much a brand new compressor would be if one could even be procured. Shows how "in the know" I am in regards to A/C with me not ever having heard of the one of the big mfg. I don't see just the clutch listed on RockAuto. OEM only? Can the clutch be rebuilt with new bearings or replace the clutch? Again, brand recommendations please.
 
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Get an used compressor from the junkyard and remans are junk too.I have seen nothing but problems with reman compressors and used compressors hold up better
 
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Reman=Rebuilt.........Same thing. We won't install a rebuilt, reman or used compressor at the shop I work at. About the 3rd time you have to redo the job because the reman isn't working will really pizz you off. Even worse when the reman blows up and you must replace the Customers entire AC system on your dollar. I just looked on AZ's site and a new compressor assuming that you have a 4-cyl is $250. You need to replace the reciever dryer too.
 

benjamming

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This is a V6. There is only a Denso reman unit listed on AZ but says not available. Are you saying that I need to replace the dryer with just the clutch replacement?
 
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 Originally Posted By: benjamming
This is a V6. There is only a Denso reman unit listed on AZ but says not available. Are you saying that I need to replace the dryer with just the clutch replacement?
No, only if the system is opened.
 
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Where I work at,have better luck with used A/C compressors 99.9% of the time which hold up.Baker Auto Parts in Grand Rapids,Mi puts a lifetime warranty on their used A/C compressors.
 
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Hey Ben.. quick question about the t-belt.. how big of a job was that and was it difficult? I cringe at the thought of handing my local dealership $7-800 for that job. Did you also change the water pump, seals, etc?
 

benjamming

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Mystic, I have a thread on here not too long ago about the t-belt job. It was straightforward - no suprises. Yes, the water pump was changed as it showed signs of leakage at 157k miles. The oil seals were not since they looked to be in good shape - leave well enough alone.
 

benjamming

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 Originally Posted By: wafrederick1
Where I work at,have better luck with used A/C compressors 99.9% of the time which hold up.Baker Auto Parts in Grand Rapids,Mi puts a lifetime warranty on their used A/C compressors.
They have no parts to offer according to their search - compressor or clutch only. Also, "30 Day Warranty on Most Parts".
 
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Just went through this on a Civic. Got a junkyard compressor, it was junk too, $100 recharge and my time down the drain. Got a rebuilt one off ebay for $160, came with the drier too. He's sold thousands and has a good rating, and so far it's working fine for me. Used compressor isn't worth the risk IMO. Here's a new one; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-2004...sQ5fAccessories
 

benjamming

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Have I summed it up correctly? If it is just the hub bearings that are bad, just a clutch could be replaced. This means the refrigeration system doesn't have to be opened. If the compressor needs to be replaced as well, then a new drier is needed & maybe a couple more $20 items. However, this is a gamble to only replace the clutch. If the bearings are bad, it's probably heated up quite a bit & the front nose of the compressor may fall apart. Of course, the safest bet for today is to remove the belt for the compressor so that it won't be turning & can't get any worse. The accessory belt is probably not the root cause. Carquest is $375.32 for a new Nippon Denso compressor with clutch. $11.09 for a Murray (Four Seasons) drier. AutoZone is $349.99 for a new Denso compressor with clutch. $22.99 for a Ready-Aire drier. $22.99 for an Evercool drier. 90-day warranty for everything. NAPA is $404.39 for a Temperature reman compressor & clutch. They don't have a new one available. $14.39 for a Temperature drier. I won't go this option. Is Temperature a Four Seasons brand? RockAuto has an ACDelco reman compressor with clutch for $468.79 + $38.50 core = $507.29 & a 5-day lead time. An ACDelco drier is $14.18 from RockAuto. I won't got this option. Advance Auto Parts is $366.99 for a Factory Air (Four Seasons) reman compressor & clutch. They don't have a new one to offer. $22.99 for a Factory Air (Four Seasons) drier. 1-year warranty. I won't go this option. O'Reilly Auto Parts is $301.99 for a new Murray (Four Seasons) compressor. $22.99 for a Murray (Four Seasons) drier. 1-year warranty. I won't go this option. It looks like either Carquest or AutoZone with a new Denso compressor. New oil & o-rings required? Pull a vacuum for 45 minutes minimum I would think.
 
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Most of the time, you can remove the belt and feel the pulley bearing. If it's loose and/or rough, then the problem could be just the hub bearing. I don't know how a Yota is set up, but one would assume it isn't much different from most compressors. Most require a couple of special tools to remove the clutch (usually pressed onto a keyed shaft and retained by a nut, though there are several variations of this), then you can remove a snap ring and tap the hub/bearing assembly off the compressor housing (or use a puller if it's too tight- but the bearing will more or less slide off on a lot of compressors). I had one of these bearings fail on my '94 Corsica a few years ago at around 150k. Autozone wanted $40 for a bearing. I looked the bearing over and wrote down the number on the race. Called the local industrial bearing supplier and had him cross reference the number to a BCA brand. He had it on the shelf for less than $20. Kind of a pain to change in-chassis on a fwd car, but it beats the [censored] out of paying a few hundred dollars and gambling on a cheap Reman.
 
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 Originally Posted By: benjamming
Have I summed it up correctly? If it is just the hub bearings that are bad, just a clutch could be replaced. This means the refrigeration system doesn't have to be opened. If the compressor needs to be replaced as well, then a new drier is needed & maybe a couple more $20 items. However, this is a gamble to only replace the clutch. If the bearings are bad, it's probably heated up quite a bit & the front nose of the compressor may fall apart. Of course, the safest bet for today is to remove the belt for the compressor so that it won't be turning & can't get any worse.
Yes, except for the part about gambling and the front of the compressor falling apart. I also agree with onion on replacing the bearing. If cost is the major consideration this is worth looking into. The most likely problem with just replacing the clutch (or just the pulley bearing) is finding the right clutch removal/installation tools, which you will probably only use once, at least for this vehicle. They will likely fit others though, so may be worthwhile to pony up for, plus there is always E-bay.
 

benjamming

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Yes, the magnetic clutch requires (2) special service tools: 07112-66040 & 07112-76060 for removing the shaft bolt & pressure plate. SST 95994-10020 is used to remove the snap rings. Afterwards, clearances must be checked & proper shims used to achieve the right clearance between the pressure plate & rotor. The manual does say to use a plastic hammer to tap the rotor off the shaft. I would think that the compressor would need to be off the vehicle to separate the clutch from the compressor. Heck, I might as well pay another $100 in parts & replace the whole darn thing. Unless, of course, the bearings can be sourced & replaced. Labor is ~ 5 hours ($340) locally for R&R compressor, evacuate, etc.
 
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