'04 Hyundai Accent base - What oil should I use?

[TheLloyd]

2004 Hyundai Accent 3dr Hatch base
81XXX miles
4 cyl 1.6l 16v DOHC
5 Speed

Owner's manual:
10w-30,40,50 SH,SG,SG/CD
Oil and Filter Every 7.5k miles, 12k kms or 6 months

I currently live on the coast, but will be moving to the Sierra Foothills. I drive my car between medium and hard, in town is typically 3rd gear, or 25-40 mph, highway is typically 60-75. My daily drive is 30-40 miles on way, 5-10 miles or so in town, the rest is highway, with some up hill and windy road.

I thought I had an oil loss problem, but I started checking my oil 2 times a week, and it wasn't changing, so I did it once a week and still no change, so I'm not entirely sure if its there or not, I'm going to monitor it more after the next oil change. There was no smoke, and no froth on the oil cap or water in the radiator. I also haven't had to put water in the reservoir or anything like that, so I think I was just being paranoid. Transmission has a slight shifting problem. Sometimes its kinda tough to shift or just feels like it doesn't want to and it sometimes feels like the clutch is slipping. Could also just be me being paranoid though.

I prefer synthetic, I usually go to O'Reilly's to buy my oil/filter, I'd like to stay as close to my manuals recommendations as possible, but if I can do it every 15k miles instead, that would be cool too, I was reading that the longer oil and filter are used the more efficient they become, I believe that was actually on this site, anyways, a little more information.

I've been on the 3500-4000 plan for oil changes, until I found my car manual, I've only had the car since 69k miles. I've always used synthetic, usually whatever O'reilly's had on sale or their name branded oil, until the last change, where I used Valvoline Conventional, and ever since then I've had this weird sound, either lifters or fuel injectors. It's been running pretty loud, and the type of oil is the only thing thats changed. I've been using MMO in my gas as well.

Also, as my 90k is coming up, it states in the manual to check the MTF. It states to use only Hyundai MTF 75w/90 API GL-4, I'd assume if it needs to be changed thats a dealership only item or would it be safe to use a different type?

 

[CharBaby]

Well, last thing first. You should be able to use any GL-4 MTF. Unless finding 75/90 is difficult. I can find 75/90 GL-5 but, IDK about GL-4...And you should be able to drain & fill(D&F) yourself. Others will chime in here if I am wrong.

Secondly, use what ever oil is recomended in the owners manual(OM) or use the synthetic oils & filter that makes you sleep at night. NO! I wouldn't go 15,000 miles on your oil change intervals(OCI's). Maybe the filter can go 15K depending on the brand/type.

Filters do become more efficient as they collect particulates. Dirt traps more dirt! 15K miles may be OK with the filter but, not the oil. 2 OCI at 7500 miles while only changing the filter every other time may be obtainable but, read the recomendations of other members as they chime in!

MMO in the gas may be OK too, IDK! I like it in my carburated engines(my old stored vehicle and lawn equip) but again, others will chime in here as well.

And alway put the correct coolant(NOT WATER ALONE) in the coolant resivior. Usually a 50/50 mix of coolant/water(distilled)

Best of luck!
CB

 

[pbm]

Any good synthetic should be good for the 7500 mile interval using a decent filter (maybe more). If you want to go further you could try Mobil 1 EP. I would use 5w30 for lower start-up wear.

Redline makes a GL4 gear lube that I used years ago, I think it was called MTL.

I would probably run a bottle of Techron or Regane through the fuel system too.

 

[bigt61]

"GL-5 is not necessarily backward-compatible in synchro-mesh transmissions which are designed for a GL-4 oil: GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively. Also, transmissions which explicitly call for GL-4 oil may have been designed around this lower concentration of EP additives and thus may contain yellow metal parts which GL-5 will corrode."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: bigt61
"GL-5 is not necessarily backward-compatible in synchro-mesh transmissions which are designed for a GL-4 oil: GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively. Also, transmissions which explicitly call for GL-4 oil may have been designed around this lower concentration of EP additives and thus may contain yellow metal parts which GL-5 will corrode."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil


Indeed! I didn't mean to recomend GL-5 in place of GL-4.

Yes, only use GL-4 gear lube. My intent/point is, NOT ONLY does your dealership carry 75W90 GL-4 MTF(as the OM states to use ONLY Hyundai). You should be able to buy at other parts sources and not just the dealership parts department.

IDK if Hyundai GL-4 MTF is anything special compared to any aftermarket 75W90 GL-4 MTF with the exception that most(if not all) "75"W90 could be synthetic where as, "80"W90 lubes are mostly dino. It's the "75 vs "80"

 

[Clevy]

That engine is far from being oil thrasher and if in good running order you could easily go 10000 miles however not all synthetics are up to the task although most will.
I would use a euro spec 30 grade such as royal purple or German castrol,and a fram ultra filter. Either of those 2 oils should be able to attain your goal of 15000 miles and the fram ultra is rated as a 15000 mile filter.
Or just skip the synthetic and use rotella conventional 10w-30. I've got no doubt that particular oil can do that kind of mileage in this sewing mach...achwm
I mean engine.
Dnewton is doing 10000 mile drains on his villager with supertech,and his lab reports come back fine. So if he can do it with supertech I've got no second thoughts about it being adequate in your application.

 

[Bandito440]

Start with 7,500 mile runs of your favorite synthetic and a good filter. Pennzoil Ultra is a recent favorite. If you can find that at your local Wal-Mart and a Fram Ultra, you'll be in good shape. Use 5w-30.

Any brand synthetic will take you that far. Quaker State, Castrol, Mobil 1, etc. Mobil 1 or Bosch D+ filters are good for extended drains.

Used oil analysis is recommended if you want to push it past 7,500.

The appropriate gear oil from Red Line is MT-90. Amazon has it.

 

[live_to_hunt]

I have a 2004 Accent the car kicks [censored] I have 140,000 on it I run QS green bottle PYB 5w30. I had a gallon of 10w30 Rotella in my garage from Hurricane Sandy for my generator that's in there right now. I still do 3000 mile
Change interval. I am stuck in old ways I won't change my habit. I use a Purolator classic filter

 

[fisher83]

I had a 2001 Accent from 40k miles to about 130k when I sold it. I used cheap Super Tech oil and filters the whole time and it kept the engine very clean. I got a chance to take a look at it when replacing the valve cover gasket. As long as you keep up on timing belt maintenance, this car will last longer than you will ever want to drive it. The 1.6 is a bit noisier than the 2.0 in the Elantra but both are pretty decent engines IMO. Although my wife hated our Accent, mechanically it was one of the best vehicles we have owned. I wouldn't spend a ton of money on expensive oil for it. I would just buy whatever is on sale and change it two or three times a year. When you see what the resale value is like you will be glad you didn't spend a ton of money on boutique oils

 

[Ross]

I have a 2011 accent 1.6 manual trans. I am using redline gl-4 mt-85 (75-85)in the trans and redline PS fluid. For oil I am using honda 0w20 year round with OEM oild filter.

 

[TheLloyd]

thanks for the feedback, great responses from everyone. So my next question would be about cleaner/oil flush. I read that changing out 15-20% of your oil with atf or marvel is a good way to insure a clean engine. I understand that dirt clogs up possible leaks or damaged areas and flushing completely is a bad idea, unless you think it will fix something, but I read atf is a gradual clean, so it wont dislodge or abrasively clean the engine and therefore less likely to open a problem that wasnt there before My question is at this low mileage, would this be a good habit to get into with my oil changes, or so I wait until a higher mileage, or is it more of a its up to me situation?

 

[Bandito440]

NO! ATF has less detergent than motor oil. Forget that idea entirely.

Some people have had decent results with MMO, but what are you trying to fix? If you don't have a sludge problem, use an oil high in detergents and forget the addatives.

Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 and a good filter. Run it to 7,500 miles and don't water it down with MMO. Your car doesn't have a lot of miles on it, so as long as it's had oil changes regularly with something resembling motor oil, you'll be fine.