'03 Buick Park Avenue: Strong car?

[Benzadmiral]

Merkava_4, that's what I'm concerned about regarding the Dexcool: If the owner let it get low, he may not have maintained the system as well as it requires. (The rest of the car looks immaculate, however.) I'm perfectly willing to have it flushed, if it needs it, and keep up with it in future.

On the other hand, I may be remembering the coolant tank level wrong; I was startled by the orange color, and only later found that that's normal for Dexcool.

G20ooh, the warranty is a 3 month/3K mile bumper-to-bumper coverage; the PA is a certified used car with less than 60K miles. On top of that, I have about a year of the 5 year/100K powertrain warranty left -- the car went into service in Oct. of 2003. I'd never buy any used car without either a warranty or a careful inspection by a mechanic I know and trust.

Yeah, I want the car. I loved the way it rides -- a big pacing mustang, so to speak, instead of the well-bred cow pony the C230 reminds me of. I wish I could fix the MB and keep it as well . . . but that's not in the budget right now.

 

[g20ooh]

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Merkava_4, that's what I'm concerned about regarding the Dexcool: If the owner let it get low, he may not have maintained the system as well as it requires.

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You know Paul , while a 'lack of maintenance' , or even 'benign neglect' , ( or a leak for that matter ) , - can be the cause of a 'low bottle' I've been noticing more and more that it can also be a 'sign' of a recently done flush .

It just seems that taking the time to bleed out a system 'fully' isn't very popular anymore - nor does overfilling the bottle a little bit as a 'legitimate shortcut that works' . ( Only thinking out loud here of other possibilities ) .

If the bottle is in fact , a little low I'd be mildly disappointed in whatever inspection the Dealer did although , here again , 'industry' standards appear to be changing . Its that kind of thinking ... you know , if its between the low and high marks 'its good to go' rather than being at the max mark ( hot ) or a little above when topping off . Not trying to knock anybody on that end , just reporting some observations from this one .... which may not apply anyway .

Again thinking outloud , its just prudent operation on any vehicle to keep cooling system levels 'maxed' and maybe a little more than that for even a late production Series II .

The thought here is in regards to not 'overstressing' various gaskets on a V configuration that don't have a whole lot of 'clamping force reserve' to handle abuse .
Anyway , also not trying to second guess what sounds like a very good situation or create concerns where there doesn't need to be any .

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(The rest of the car looks immaculate, however.)

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I'm perfectly willing to have it flushed, if it needs it, and keep up with it in future.

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On the other hand, I may be remembering the coolant tank level wrong;

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In a sense , that would be ideal , and then there are the other 'benign' possibilities as well . Also , some of those bottles have a really 'low located' low mark .

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G20ooh, the warranty is a 3 month/3K mile bumper-to-bumper coverage; the PA is a certified used car with less than 60K miles. On top of that, I have about a year of the 5 year/100K powertrain warranty left -- the car went into service in Oct. of 2003. I'd never buy any used car without either a warranty or a careful inspection by a mechanic I know and trust.

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I gotcha . I just had an epiphany ....maybe .... are these warranties all part of being certified ? I don't know how the current program works .

Yeah, I want the car. I loved the way it rides -- a big pacing mustang, so to speak, instead of the well-bred cow pony the C230 reminds me of. I wish I could fix the MB and keep it as well . . . but that's not in the budget right now.

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[Merkava_4]

The most important part is the distilled water. Most mechanics I've ever seen just reach for the water that's in the retractible hose reel; and you know that's just tap water. It's the calcium and mineral deposits from tap water that reek havoc on a cooling system. I still think (when properly maintained) Dexcool is superior to regular ethylene glycol when it comes to cooling ability. I spend $15 every 6 months for Dexcool and distilled water, but the peace of mind that it brings me is priceless.

 

[g20ooh]

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The most important part is the distilled water. Most mechanics I've ever seen just reach for the water that's in the retractible hose reel; and you know that's just tap water. It's the calcium and mineral deposits from tap water that reek havoc on a cooling system. I still think (when properly maintained) Dexcool is superior to regular ethylene glycol when it comes to cooling ability. I spend $15 every 6 months for Dexcool and distilled water, but the peace of mind that it brings me is priceless.

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Yep on the distilled - really on everything with anything that doesn't specifically preclude it . Good shops usually have a maintained deionizer - still not what I want esp. if the OEM calls for distilled .
It is a superior coolant - your contact metal surfaces run something like 12 -15 degrees cooler and I have never seen better looking internals - including new . I run it combined with Redline WW in everything I can although I wouldn't necc. do that on this one without a whole lot of checking it out . As to schedule , become pretty lazy about it ; either a bottle of WW/YR and then a radiator drain or a 2gallon drop, or a full drain whenever ... something like once every 1-5 years .

On pure DEX/Distilled alone , a two gallon (total - to use up the gallon of DEX) drop (which equals whatever capacity as long as its at least 1/2 ) every 1-2 years or a full every 3.5 - 4.5 - know plenty of people who go the full five with no problem whatsoever - even past although again , I wouldn't w/o WW -although evidently "we" did but thats really an unplanned experiment that just went well . We aren't talking about a whole lot of money no matter what you do here for as you say , a pricless peace of mind . In warmer climes I run as low as 30 -35% with WW . Vehicles definitely runs better this way with ambient temps. in the 100 - 130 range .

All you have to do with it is 'read and follow the instructions' in a sense and mind the does and don'ts - pity how now even thats becoming yet another lost art here in the big PX .

 

[Benzadmiral]

Well, the deed is done.

I drove the MB out, after taking some "goodbye" pictures. The dealership delivered on their promises, and the big grey warship looks great. She and I cruised home and I slid her into the usual berth outside my apartment. (I'm not set on the female gender for the car, because I tend to think of big big cars as male; but if this car is a ship --?) (And no, I intend to keep my username. "Cap'n Buick" just doesn't cut it.)

Now to read the owner's manual and find out (a) what all these gadgets do, and (b) what maintenance I need to do right away. Air filter, cabin filter (anybody know how to get to it? the manual mentions it, but says to consult the dealer), can I get under to reach the oil filter and drain plug . . .

I'm sure I'll have more questions in the appropriate forums. In the meantime, thanks for all the input, guys!

 

[bretfraz]

Well done! That's a sweet looking battleship you've got. I really like the colors and the chrome wheels add some bling. After you've done the maintenance stuff, get a coat of wax on it (wheels, too) and you'll be cruising the high seas in Flint Style.

 

[addyguy]

Drain plug and filter aren't that hard to reach on a 3.8....drain plug is in the usual place (middle), and the filter is off to the right, in a little frame 'triangle'...it tilts towards the front of the engine. Not right out in the ope, but not that hard to get to....

Engine should spec 10W-30, what oil are you going to run in it...?

 

[Benzadmiral]

The manual does spec 10W-30, w/ 5W-30 allowable if the outside temp is going to be below freezing. No 10W-40 or 20W-50.

No, I don't expect the plug and filter to be in any strange places, but I don't have ramps or much room to store them, and it's not very safe at my complex to park a wheel up on the narrow concrete strip curb to get some lift. I may have to let somebody else tackle this one, at least for now. If I can do it, I'm going to 2 changes a year, April and October, at about 5K OCI. Pennzoil Platinum might be overkill. Maybe Chevron Supreme 5W-30 (10.8 cSt at 100 C.) or the new Havoline DS (9.7 cSt)?

 

[g20ooh]

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Well, the deed is done.

The dealership delivered on their promises, and the big grey warship looks great. She and I cruised home and I slid her into the usual berth outside my apartment. (I'm not set on the female gender for the car, because I tend to think of big big cars as male; but if this car is a ship --?) (And no, I intend to keep my username. "Cap'n Buick" just doesn't cut it.)

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How 'bout Rear Admiral Paul (with the ) Park Avenue or RAPPA for short ? ....
Well .... alright...... whatever .

Seriously , glad to here it worked out to your satisfaction .

I've been watching some of the anniversary (Katrina) programming ............. I GUESS I better ....... stop .............. might become a statistic in our 'best that money can buy' war on terror if I don't .............. lets do it this way - good news from New Orleans and thereabouts is good news indeed !

One thing you might want to consider ( and then again , maybe not , as always , - lots of choices ) , is looking around for some of the ACDELCO UPF 52 oil filters which for the money , are tough to beat .

Let me back it up here for a sec. . If your series II still calls for a PF47 , a nice little upgrade that I think unfortunately , has been discontinued or lost general distribution is the slightly bigger UPF52 ( emphasis on the 'U' ) - which is 'better' as well .
We have plenty of discussion of it around here so I'll just mention it and move on - if you get blessed they are still on some of the 'slow mover shelves' . And if that doesn't get it or suit your fancy , you can always just use a 'regular' PF52 or equivalent size other if you want something a little larger thats still easy to get on and off the stock mount .

On the other hand , and I not sure if I'm remembering correctly , but some of the other mfg. choices between the two sizes here (47 vs 52) really only represent some extra oil in the can ( no bad thing in and of itself ) with no indicated filtration advantage as far as media amount , type , performance , etc .

Like all real Americans , I'm a firm believer in the 'placebo' effect if reality isn't working the way 'its supposed to' so I use a 52 something or other whenever a 47 is called for . I have on a more serious note , sometimes noticed a usable difference between a UPF52 and various but always decent PF47 types .
Another nice thing about the UPF52s is they are usually priced out the same as the regular PF47s so ......... if you see any on sale and don't mind helping a brother out ......... buy a case (I donated most of mine and now I'm short ) and I'll catch you up later - but quick !

BA , Enjoy that new car - I've got the 'itch' to do something along these lines ...... remember the old teeshirt with the two old vultures on a branch with the one saying to the other "patience my bass , I'm gonna have to kill something" ? ...... its like that but I guess I'll have to live vicariously thru others like you who choose to pull the trigger at this time ....

 

[Matt_S]

Regarding the cabin air filter, it should be up above the gas and brake pedals. You should see an access hatch after removing the trim panel. There are apparently 3 pieces to it with guides attaching the different sections. The pieces have to be removed one at a time. Silicon spray is recommended by the service manual when reinstalling the guides to the new filters.

Cabin air filters are notoriously neglected BTW. Most people probably don't know if their car has one and it probably never got changed unless it saw the dealer regularly.

 

[Benzadmiral]

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Cabin air filters are notoriously neglected BTW. Most people probably don't know if their car has one and it probably never got changed unless it saw the dealer regularly.

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That's why I want to see to it. When I got the C230, the cabin filter (at 58,000 miles) looked as if it hadn't been swapped out -- ever.

The part I hate is that the cabin filter on so many cars is so blasted awkward to get to. Those manufacturers who put the filter at the base of the windshield, making it accessible from topside, have my applause.

Crawling into a cramped space under the steering wheel? Gack.

 

[Matt_S]

At least it's only once every 15k.

My Chevy has it at the base of the windshield. Don't know why they didn't do that on your Park.

 

[mstrjon32]

Are you referring to your Monte Carlo?

I haven't actually looked for the cabin air filter in my '06 Monte yet but I was going to take a look at some point. I thought it was above the glove box or something...

 

[mrsilv04]

ParkAdmiral-

Congratulations!

The cabin air filter on Mom and Dad's '99 at 46k was pretty nasty. I think it was the original. Make sure yours is not the same.

It comes out in about 3 minutes, and it seemed like it went back in about an hour and a half (although it wasn't that long). One thing that is poor design by Buick. I'm not planning on doing that one ever again.

My folks are going on vacation, and I'll probably take their PA to get a new set of Michelin Symmetry tires (with the pin-stripe white walls) while they're gone. That'll be a quick $500.

Enjoy the Park. It looks like a keeper.

 

[G-MAN]

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Well, the deed is done.

I drove the MB out, after taking some "goodbye" pictures. The dealership delivered on their promises, and the big grey warship looks great. She and I cruised home and I slid her into the usual berth outside my apartment. (I'm not set on the female gender for the car, because I tend to think of big big cars as male; but if this car is a ship --?) (And no, I intend to keep my username. "Cap'n Buick" just doesn't cut it.)

Now to read the owner's manual and find out (a) what all these gadgets do, and (b) what maintenance I need to do right away. Air filter, cabin filter (anybody know how to get to it? the manual mentions it, but says to consult the dealer), can I get under to reach the oil filter and drain plug . . .

I'm sure I'll have more questions in the appropriate forums. In the meantime, thanks for all the input, guys!

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Congrats on joining the 21st century version of the "American Land Yacht Club."

If you would like to change your BITOG display name to Parkadmiral, just let me know.

 

[Benzadmiral]

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Congrats on joining the 21st century version of the "American Land Yacht Club."

If you would like to change your BITOG display name to Parkadmiral, just let me know.

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G-Man, that wouldn't be bad, but I'm sort of used to this moniker. It appears to be unique; Google's references appear to be *all* my posts, or responding to my posts. If I did want to change, though, "Parkadmiral" would be cool!

(When Eva Peron, the famous "Evita, was the "First Lady" of Argentina, she was riding with a retired admiral. She became incensed at a crowd yelling at her. "Do you hear that?" she demanded. "They're calling me a whore!"

(The admiral cocked an eye at her. "I haven't been to sea in fifteen years," he said, "but they still call me 'Admiral'.")

 

[Matt_S]

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Are you referring to your Monte Carlo?

I haven't actually looked for the cabin air filter in my '06 Monte yet but I was going to take a look at some point. I thought it was above the glove box or something...

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Yes, that's on my '00 Monte. The '06 is an updated design, so they may have moved it. I'm not sure. The owner's manual should state where it is. On my '05 Buick minivan, it's behind the glove box.

 

[pacem]

Fine vehicle. Wish they made the LeSabre/Park Avenue with the 5 speed M/T, then I would get one.

Too bad if you want to get a full size M/T vehicle, have to go to Honda/Nissan/Toyota...

I think automatic tranny issues are still there with GM, actually with all makes it seems.