'02 Accord V6 Timing Belt

Messages
6,070
Location
northern Alabama
So, it's been 7 years since the car's build date & the J30A1 engine needs its timing belt replaced. Which brings me to my point of what else gets replaced. Here is my list: 14400-P8A-A02 Timing Belt (197YU26 GB-323) $28.02 14510-PGE-A01 Timing Belt Adjuster $54.67 14550-PGE-A01 Timing Belt Idler (KOYO SEIKO) $30.32 14517-P13-003 Automatic adjuster gasket $0.90 91213-P8A-A01 or 91213-R70-A02 Camshaft oil seal (NOK) 39x53x8 $8.28 12341-P8A-A00 Valve cover gasket $9.06 12342-P2F-A01 Spark plug tube seals (NOK) $10.62 91302-GE0-000 Dipstick tube o-ring (8.8x1.9) $1.40 19200-P8A-A02 Water Pump (Yamada) with gasket $90.97 There are 2 camshaft oil seals, 2 valve cover gaskets, & 6 spark plug tube seals included. Should I get (2) valve cover gasket kits or just the valve cover gaskets & spark plug tube seals separately? The kit includes the head cover bolt washers. Does these need replacing? That seems a little too much in my book. The above prices are from Majestic Honda which was better than HondaPartsDeals.com by ~$1, Manchester Motorsports by ~ $24, SLHonda by ~ $26, one local dealership by ~ $121, another local by ~ $176, & a 3rd local by ~ $100. These prices include shipping and/or taxes. Total from Majestic is $256.48 including shipping & handling. Labor is free. I have the factory service manual, but there may very well be updates to it that I don't have. More importantly, are there any pointers from mechanics who have successfully completed this job? I know that many times mechanics figure better (quicker & easier but still quality & correct) ways to perform a job than what is called out by the factory. I understand that the crank bolt will need some not so gentle persuasion. I'm not going to heat the bolt, etc. Is it very difficult to get the timing belt back on?
 
Messages
433
Location
Melbourne, Australia
The head cover bolt washers may have rubber seals under them, similar to the Mazda V6 I have worked on before. Once these seals harden, there may be slight oil weepage. If the kit doesn't cost a whole lot more than separate items, just change it while you are in there. While you are in there with the valve covers open, check and adjust valve clearanes will be a good idea. Since you are changing the water pump, you will need new coolant. And since you have the drive belt off, you might want to get a new belt.
 

benjamming

Thread starter
Messages
6,070
Location
northern Alabama
Yep, I forgot to mention the valve clearance but there aren't any parts associated with that in addition to what is listed. Coolant is kept in the garage. I debated on the accessory belt but it doesn't really seem necessary as in nothing bad happens if it breaks. How difficult is this to change? If relatively easy, I'll just wait until it breaks or starts looking really bad. It looks decent right now.
 
Messages
962
Location
San Antonio, Texas
While you're there I'd add a crank seal and new serpentine belt to the list. Might as well throw a new set of plugs in there also. I say this because you're going to have to pull the acc. belt off and the plugs out when doing the work. Might as well put new stuff back in if you'll be removing the old ones anyway. Double check the motor mounts also while you're there.
 
Last edited:
Messages
1,200
Location
Missouri
You will need a tool to hold the crank pulley when loosening the bolt. I use 3/4" inch drive extensions resting on top of a scissors jack and a long breaker bar. I estimate a loosening torque of 400 ft/lbs for a bolt that gets torqued to about 170.
 

benjamming

Thread starter
Messages
6,070
Location
northern Alabama
Yep, got that tool. I also have a 1/2" drive Precision Instruments torque wrench for the 181 ft-lb reinstall. The engine mount brackets have to be removed so I'll check the mounts although I don't expect anything to be awry. Spark plugs were changed at 75k miles so they are still good.
 
Messages
19,479
Location
Chicago Area
Get everything. Go without a lunch or two, if you have to. Clean everything you deal with. Really get the crank gear and cam gear[s] clean. A good tip is to lay out the parts in order that you take them off. Much easier to re assemble, then.
 
Messages
8,598
Location
Florida
I have always found that when I do a major job such as this, I always benefit from having several magnetic trays to hold bolts and keep them in order at the same time. Far too often I have had a proprietary bolt roll away, and I'd have to spend 15 mintes trying to find it.
 
Top