01 accord new rear wheel bearing - lots of drag after install

The aftermarket unit is not made to OEM spec. Torquing nut is reducing designed clearances which is the death knell for this two row angular contact bearing. When it comes to components like this, I always use OEM parts. More costly but now you have a bearing assembly you have paid for, it has problems and won't be in service long, and you have to get your $$ back and find another unit and hope it is better made. Regards
 
Originally Posted by Yah-Tah-Hey
The aftermarket unit is not made to OEM spec. Torquing nut is reducing designed clearances which is the death knell for this two row angular contact bearing. When it comes to components like this, I always use OEM parts. More costly but now you have a bearing assembly you have paid for, it has problems and won't be in service long, and you have to get your $$ back and find another unit and hope it is better made. Regards


SKF is the OE provider for many bearings, regardless all their units meet OE specs.

Quote
All SKF hub bearings are premium quality parts manufactured using high quality steel and surface finishes, premium seals, OE grade sensors, precision manufacturing techniques and precise assembly tolerances. Each one is 100% tested to the actual OE specifications for fit, form and function
 
Originally Posted by mk378
This is a cartridge type bearing where bearing clearance is internally set. Installation is simply to put the nut on tight and leave it. Something must be wrong with the new bearing.

I was thinking similarly. I replaced the rear bearings on my '99 Accord which is the same as his '01. I don't recall even having to "press" the bearing (assembly) in at all (and I don't mean having to use an actual "press" either). It was a bearing/hub assembly.
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by Johan1
Okay I will do as you all mentioned. The torque wrench is brand new, so I hope the torque specs aren't off... My fear of removing the bearing is that it will damage it, hence why I didn't want to remove it to begin with because the crap CBK I took off is clearly damaged... I will do my best not to damage it but that's obviously out of my control

FWIW, I actually did tighten in increments by hand just to make sure it always spun freely


So you did it in increments, and it spun freely at x ft-lb, but not at 139? What was x?


When I say increments, I mean as i'm slowly torquing to 139, I am checking to see and make sure that the hub still spins... so I don't know the actual torque
 
Originally Posted by Kestas
How did the bearing spin out of the box before installation? Was it also tight?


It didn't seem super tight, but it definitely wasn't free wheeling either, although I only gave it a couple quick spins to make sure it was working
 
I used a Timkin rear hub bearing assembly on my '02. It had an NTN stamp on the bearing just like the factory one. Had no problems installing it or afterward.
 
So here's the thing, I was told by a mechanic on another forum that the spindle itself may no longer be true, hence the possible tightness. Measuring the spindle is well, not that easy, and I wouldn't even know how to measure it for trueness. I just went and picked up an entire knuckle for cheap from the scrap yard. I have the old, cbk bearing (I presume it's made in china, CBK is canadian parts distributor) which after I properly clean this new spindle, I will slide on the bearing and see how it spins and make a video... I should note that the CBK bearing already had a lot of play in the rear and front races after taking off (remember, only 20km of driving), so it might not give me a very good indication of anything on the new (used) knuckle I just got. The knuckle was cheap, 37 CAD, so it's not that much of a loss if I don't need it, and can always exchange it for a credit

So here's the deal/options I suppose I have

A honda OEM bearing is 300 CAD plus tax from the dealer. No thanks, there's no reason a proper, real SKF bearing shouldn't work correctly (assuming my SKF bearing is real, i've gotten in touch with SKF)

I do suspect that maybe the spindle isn't true... the rear suspension has been shot for a while but I never got around to doing for very reasons (yes I know I should've done it, hindsight is 20/20...), so with that and hitting potholes, it could've ever so slightly deformed it

If the bearing just gets hot, it will fail prematurely...how premature? I don't know. But, as long as the wheel doesn't fall off, at this point i'm starting to lean on leaving it there because the likely hood of having a CBK bearing and a SKF bearing being bad is small, so very good chance it's spindle

I will take the spindle nut off since I have another brand new spare, and see if that makes a difference, along with testing the CBK bearing on the other spindle and seeing what happens there
 
If you buy another one, check out BCA by NTN on Rock Auto. NTN is probably the OE supplier.

You should also buy the OEM spindle nut.
 
IF I buy another one, it'll be SKF, timken, moog, or if I find the NTN, it'll be from amazon due to their super easy return policy...

As for the spindle nut, yea I am considering it. Luckily I can get it from Honda for almost cost but it's still super expensive for a [censored] nut...

Either way, when my family member came home with the car, I checked both rear wheels. The new bearing was still hot, but not to the point you'd burn your hand, while the other rear wheel with the original bearing was pretty cold to the touch... front wheels were also fairly hot, kinda like the rear with the new bearing. I know it's not from the brakes because there's new calipers, pads and rotors all around (so on the front I imagine it's just hot from normal braking of course)

I will spin the wheel tomorrow, then spin just the hub and film it, then i'll remove the spindle nut and see if there is a difference and film it. If there is no change, well, not much I can do there other then new bearing again or replace the entire hub since I now have one from the scrap yard

If it does make a difference after taking the nut off, then I guess I will torque the new nut in increments starting at 50ftib? (or whatever other value is suggested here, don't know what the threshold is)
 
Last edited:
So here's a good one

The original honda bearing for this generation accord has been discontinued... so unless the big warehouses in Canada have some kicking around, you're stuck with buying aftermarket either way

Not that it makes a difference because as I said previously, 300 for a wheel bearing and hub is ridiculous
 
Last edited:
Probably, the spindle is fine, the other genius mechanic on another forum got ideas in my head...

https://youtu.be/j82NjE2ytno

https://youtu.be/nokN8KTfYa4

Those two videos are with a new nut that I currently hand tightened to probanly 5 or 10ft ib, so I obviously need to torque it but clearly 139 is too much as you can see how freely the wheel spins...why on earth Honda said 139 beats me...maybe with their spindle nut? But that really shouldn't make a difference. I dont know what to do. I still have everything apart as I write this. On one hand I don't want to torque to 139 as it'll be stuck again, but on the other hand I don't want it loose either

For what it's worth, you can see grease on the other ring of the inner race...don't know if thats bad. I do have a moog bearing coming from Amazon just as backup
 
Ok this makes no sense anymore


https://youtu.be/l7xrdOr1rBc

That is torqued back to 139 ft ib...it doesn't spin as freely as with no torque, but way more freely then the previous 139 ft ib of torque

I am happy that this is the case now but I don't understand how and why...and also, is the bearing still fine with that little bit of grease that came out of the inner race?

If it makes a difference, I did torque the spindle with the tire still on the car
 
Originally Posted by Johan1
Ok this makes no sense anymore


https://youtu.be/l7xrdOr1rBc

That is torqued back to 139 ft ib...it doesn't spin as freely as with no torque, but way more freely then the previous 139 ft ib of torque

I am happy that this is the case now but I don't understand how and why...and also, is the bearing still fine with that little bit of grease that came out of the inner race?

If it makes a difference, I did torque the spindle with the tire still on the car


The wheel was off the ground when you tightened it correct?
 
Originally Posted by Johan1


That is torqued back to 139 ft ib...it doesn't spin as freely as with no torque, but way more freely then the previous 139 ft ib of torque

I am happy that this is the case now but I don't understand how and why...and also, is the bearing still fine with that little bit of grease that came out of the inner race?

If it makes a difference, I did torque the spindle with the tire still on the car


You are probably just fine. The concern is not a loss of "free spinning'- the concern is any binding or grinding and obvious excessive tension.

I double checked about these type hubs to my SKF rep and he sent it up the chain and I got their feedback.

Basically this high torque is to take the angular contact bearing ( OEM at about .002"-.004" depending on model) and take about a thou or 2 out of it by really preloading the center insert ( the bearing is designed to run at 0.000 to .001" at full thermal expansion)

If its not binding or grinding- you are probably good.

That little grease wont matter.
 
Originally Posted by mattd
Originally Posted by Johan1
Ok this makes no sense anymore


https://youtu.be/l7xrdOr1rBc

That is torqued back to 139 ft ib...it doesn't spin as freely as with no torque, but way more freely then the previous 139 ft ib of torque

I am happy that this is the case now but I don't understand how and why...and also, is the bearing still fine with that little bit of grease that came out of the inner race?

If it makes a difference, I did torque the spindle with the tire still on the car


The wheel was off the ground when you tightened it correct?


Yes off the ground
 
Originally Posted by ABN_CBT_ENGR
Originally Posted by Johan1


That is torqued back to 139 ft ib...it doesn't spin as freely as with no torque, but way more freely then the previous 139 ft ib of torque

I am happy that this is the case now but I don't understand how and why...and also, is the bearing still fine with that little bit of grease that came out of the inner race?

If it makes a difference, I did torque the spindle with the tire still on the car


You are probably just fine. The concern is not a loss of "free spinning'- the concern is any binding or grinding and obvious excessive tension.

I double checked about these type hubs to my SKF rep and he sent it up the chain and I got their feedback.

Basically this high torque is to take the angular contact bearing ( OEM at about .002"-.004" depending on model) and take about a thou or 2 out of it by really preloading the center insert ( the bearing is designed to run at 0.000 to .001" at full thermal expansion)

If its not binding or grinding- you are probably good.

That little grease wont matter.


Such an informative and helpful post. Just to add to your points, after going for a short hop on the highway, I
checked the wheel again and it was not as hot. It is possible that some of that heat on first drive was a) from the heatwave we were having up here in canuck land (Im in ontario) and b) possibly the little bit of pad friction, i know the clearances aren't perfect with respect to pad on rotor, but it's obviously not grinding like a seized caliper would (and again, caliper is a year old anyways)

I feel a little dumb that I listened to the mechanic on the other forum, wouldn't have wasted my time and money on an entire knuckle, but paranoia got the best of me...luckily the who knuckle was only 37 bucks and if i ever need i have it
 
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