Please see this install video of how freely the new bearing spins towards end of video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T4Tug4_YnE
and how tight mine is
https://youtu.be/IjJ4BfG0sPg
I did everything as per the service manual... I did put some moly grease on the hub just to get it to easily slide in, and then hand tightened the new spindle nut (aftermarket beck arnley but it was the correct one for my car) and torqued afterwards to 139 ft/ib.... what gives? I originally install a cheap china bearing and after torquing that one, it didn't move until I gave it a few tugs... so I thought dumb move, i'll get a proper bearing, so I ordered an SKF, and while this one clearly didn't seize, it seems like it's way too much drag...
01 accord new rear wheel bearing - lots of drag after install
- Thread starter Johan1
- Start date
Where did you buy the skf bearing from? Google "skf counterfeit bearing" to make sure you didn't get a fake.
I think that's an ok source.
Two things come to mind.
1. The inner race was pushed during installation damaging the races
2. It needs to be driven to "loosen up" enough to run freely.
Not sure if either apply, but I would try a short trip to see if things loosen up and it runs freely after.
JHZR2
Staff member
139 ft-lb seems really high for a spindle nut.
Have you punched it into place? Can you work back out the punch you made?
I suspect you just have it too tight. I did bearings on a trailer recently, and its a fraction of a turn between very loose and very tight.
My Mercedes cars require use of a dial indicator to get the right amount of play in the bearing. That is the truest way to get it right, IMO, though folks seldom do that and in many cases it just doesnt matter.
Thought I had read elsewhere an install example, which was torque to a (lower) value, IIRC 60 ft-lb, to set the bearings and get the grease worked through, then back off and make it finger tight. NOT saying that's right for your application, but Im hung up on the 139 ft-lb...
Originally Posted by JHZR2
139 ft-lb seems really high for a spindle nut.
Have you punched it into place? Can you work back out the punch you made?
I suspect you just have it too tight. I did bearings on a trailer recently, and its a fraction of a turn between very loose and very tight.
My Mercedes cars require use of a dial indicator to get the right amount of play in the bearing. That is the truest way to get it right, IMO, though folks seldom do that and in many cases it just doesnt matter.
Thought I had read elsewhere an install example, which was torque to a (lower) value, IIRC 60 ft-lb, to set the bearings and get the grease worked through, then back off and make it finger tight. NOT saying that's right for your application, but Im hung up on the 139 ft-lb...
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by AdamZ
Originally Posted by JHZR2
139 ft-lb seems really high for a spindle nut.
Have you punched it into place? Can you work back out the punch you made?
I suspect you just have it too tight. I did bearings on a trailer recently, and its a fraction of a turn between very loose and very tight.
My Mercedes cars require use of a dial indicator to get the right amount of play in the bearing. That is the truest way to get it right, IMO, though folks seldom do that and in many cases it just doesnt matter.
Thought I had read elsewhere an install example, which was torque to a (lower) value, IIRC 60 ft-lb, to set the bearings and get the grease worked through, then back off and make it finger tight. NOT saying that's right for your application, but Im hung up on the 139 ft-lb...
Originally Posted by Johan1
I did everything as per the service manual... I did put some moly grease on the hub just to get it to easily slide in, and then hand tightened the new spindle nut (aftermarket beck arnley but it was the correct one for my car) and torqued afterwards to 139 ft/ib.... what gives? I originally install a cheap china bearing and after torquing that one, it didn't move until I gave it a few tugs... so I thought dumb move, i'll get a proper bearing, so I ordered an SKF, and while this one clearly didn't seize, it seems like it's way too much drag...
Originally Posted by JHZR2
139 ft-lb seems really high for a spindle nut.
Have you punched it into place? Can you work back out the punch you made?
I suspect you just have it too tight. I did bearings on a trailer recently, and its a fraction of a turn between very loose and very tight.
My Mercedes cars require use of a dial indicator to get the right amount of play in the bearing. That is the truest way to get it right, IMO, though folks seldom do that and in many cases it just doesnt matter.
Thought I had read elsewhere an install example, which was torque to a (lower) value, IIRC 60 ft-lb, to set the bearings and get the grease worked through, then back off and make it finger tight. NOT saying that's right for your application, but Im hung up on the 139 ft-lb...
Well the only thing I can think of is the bearing is potentially grinding on the back of the dust plate, but I'll know later when I remove everything. This is directly from the service manual with regards to torque spec
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/QtKbHLJS/Untitled.jpg)
This is becoming a nightmare I don't want to deal with. IF there is a different method to installing aftermarket wheel bearings, there should be instructions that come with them. I literally followed the steps in the service manual word for word, it's really hard to screw up the procedure because it's probably the most straight forward wheel bearing i've come across. I luckily bought an extra spindle nut
This is becoming a nightmare I don't want to deal with. IF there is a different method to installing aftermarket wheel bearings, there should be instructions that come with them. I literally followed the steps in the service manual word for word, it's really hard to screw up the procedure because it's probably the most straight forward wheel bearing i've come across. I luckily bought an extra spindle nut
Remove it, check the spindle for nick or burrs if all smooth install it with a ratchet not too tight and see if it spins freely. If it does tighten it to 100 ft.lb with the torque wrench and check again then final torque, do not restake the nut until its okay. Try a different TW.
OK, that's a manned hub, not Tapered. slightly different methodology
That tension is adequate so based on your video..
Either its over tensioned
something is unseated/binding/deflected
Unit is defective
Take it off and check- it shouldn't "freewheel" packed with grease but it should turn freely with almost no resistance or binding
If it passes that, reinstall carefully and make sure everything seats properly and when "snug", give a partial turn, test ( repeat until properly tensioned)
I would remove the bearing and see if there are rotation marks on the backing plate. If not then I would reinstall and see at what point in the tightening process, the bearing gets hard to turn. In other words , tighten to 50lbs, see if it's free, then go up in increments of 30lbs or so. When it gets tight back off the torque. It's possible your wrench is off, and the 139lbs setting is really a lot more.
Okay I will do as you all mentioned. The torque wrench is brand new, so I hope the torque specs aren't off... My fear of removing the bearing is that it will damage it, hence why I didn't want to remove it to begin with because the crap CBK I took off is clearly damaged... I will do my best not to damage it but that's obviously out of my control
FWIW, I actually did tighten in increments by hand just to make sure it always spun freely
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by Johan1
Okay I will do as you all mentioned. The torque wrench is brand new, so I hope the torque specs aren't off... My fear of removing the bearing is that it will damage it, hence why I didn't want to remove it to begin with because the crap CBK I took off is clearly damaged... I will do my best not to damage it but that's obviously out of my control
FWIW, I actually did tighten in increments by hand just to make sure it always spun freely
Kestas
Staff member
Hard to judge from the video, but the drag seems normal to me. New bearings are tight. Remember, automotive wheel bearings use 4 lips to seal the bearing on one side. This is where the drag comes from. I've spun many new automotive hub units in the past 20 years. They are always hard to turn. They loosen up a bit with use.
