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I'd keep Castrol 0w40, anyway you can try Ravenol, Meguin Megol, Redline and Amsoil 0w40 or 5w40.

Nah don't worry if you fixed it soon, it's bullet-proof engine.

Usually 1.4T manual uses 55209531

Fuchs is a good decision.

Well... U1P stay 1 (or 2) steps under RL, if it's ok good if it's cheaper too. His cousins/brothers: - Ford BO 75w90 - Castrol BOT 130M - Castrol BOT 328 - Castrol Multivehicle 75w90

Similar to MaxLife C3 but with Mg+Ca or MaxLife FE SN+. MaxLife oxidation is not relevant either.

FCA included a firewall in car network, example under steering column, so only authorized services/tools can do any functions like delete dtc, reset service, proxy aligment and so on. You can scan errors. There are cheap bypass modules.

It's mainly group II/III and usually these VW are based on inactive trisulfide sulfur antiwear/EP GL4. Most 75w commented above are the same with little differences on base oil or adds, except Redline (true syn) and Ravenol (little syn).

Good question, visco or adds. Visco is rule one, but additives and base oils are very important. VW uses Molibdeno, Fuchs too, Ravenol no. If Millers is similar price to others try it. Yeah Ford D2 and S-FVA are good options too, but at least D2 additve is totally different (classic GL4 +...

From visco properties Miller is the target. From additive Fuchs is the most similar, after Ravenol.

Well you need check all info possible and compare it. Both Fuchs, Ravenol and Meguin have any TOP syn oils, difference is additive package. Redline is simply super TOP but additive is totally different to previous. If you want similar formulation to 527 Fuchs/Ravenol are good (little thicker)...

Hi, 527 is 75w <> 75w80 GL4, so your choose is ok but: a) Mannol usually is low-med range b) formulation seems different to 527 All could affect to performance. Fuchs is similar to 527 (512 twin), Meguin Megol MTF GT3 is more. Ravenol could be ok.

No, there are different formulations to meet a spec. Is the same quality any regular mineral (fake synth) 5w40 229.5 than other 0w30 or 0w40 real synth (PAO+) 229.5? No.

It could use different base oils to Petronas then, but additive pkg is the same from Infineum, there are regular imports from Italy to USA.

It should be Petronas 7000 brother, PAO based. Between MB and M1 I'd buy cheaper. Don't worry about additives, it can work same or better with less adds.

Calcium is so different, previous Synpower was different normative?

Yeah, seems that but it yes has additives, simply it's different additive package to Honda. Honda is based in classic ZDDP AW GL4 and UltraLub has multi-purpose phosphorus, other example are Motul, Amsoil, Neste/Valvoline etc.

2008 NB if MT-5 is 75w GL4 too, but formulation is very different to Elf/Total NFX 75w.

Well 1,7L drained for old oil with 170k kms is very good. Level was not the reason for any shifting quality issue. To see when really cold and next miles when oil work better.

Probably it won't cause any mechanical issue, at least at low-mid mileage. Main oil formulation is the same, one is thicker and other thinner eco-climatic-fuelsaver0,005%-cold'ish performance, well... If you buyed it, go ahead and test. But think that tought shifting, if cured with D2, could be...